1999 Civic SI Minime Swap-lots of pictures
#1
1999 Civic SI Minime Swap-lots of pictures
I recently got a 1999 Civic SI with a minime swap. The car isn't running and has a d16y7 block with d16z6 head and p2e ecu. The engine sounds like it wants to turn over but doesn't actually ever start up. The main issue I think may be with the wiring because it has some loose wires as well as unconnected wires coming off of the harness. I know that isn't the only issue though as the clutch pedal drops and doesn't return. The ebrake also doesn't function because the car will roll even though it's all the way up. I got the car as a project and to learn more about them along the way so I'm taking any help I can get and that includes coming here and asking you all. I'd really like to get the car running and have included some pictures. Thanks in advance.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 1999 Civic SI Minime Swap-lots of pictures
that looks like a nightmare.
I recommend fixing the clutch issue first. check for leaks, flush with fresh fluid and bleed the air out.
then look at the brakes. adjust the parking brake until it works well enough. check the front brakes for safe operation/condition.
engine: I would check cam timing, spark and fuel (fresh? pressure? injectors firing?). in that order. troubleshoot based on your findings.
once those are right it should start at least. then you can find out what other problems are hiding in there.
I recommend fixing the clutch issue first. check for leaks, flush with fresh fluid and bleed the air out.
then look at the brakes. adjust the parking brake until it works well enough. check the front brakes for safe operation/condition.
engine: I would check cam timing, spark and fuel (fresh? pressure? injectors firing?). in that order. troubleshoot based on your findings.
once those are right it should start at least. then you can find out what other problems are hiding in there.
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 1999 Civic SI Minime Swap-lots of pictures
OP, you have a wiring nightmare here. First, there is no MAP sensor connected to your car... you have an OBD-0 type throttle body which has no provision for mounting a MAP sensor although it does have a brown/copper colored vacuum port to run a small vacuum line from the throttle body to the firewall where it would meet the firewall mounted MAP sensor normally found on most OBD-0 and a few OBD-1 applications. You can either find an OBD-1 style throttle body and clean up the install or zip tie a newer style MAP sensor to something close to the throttle body and run a vacuum line between the vacuum port and the MAP sensor. Then plug in the round 3-wire plug that you are holding up in the third picture you posted above... assuming that it is the correct wire colors.
Next (assuming the wire colors are original and haven't been moved at the ECU end of the engine harness), your IAT sensor plug is connected to the fan switch on the thermostat housing. You also have the purge/cut solenoid connected to the VTEC pressure switch on the cylinder head. The vacuum line connected to the larger port at the very top of the throttle body is incorrect... disconnect it as it may create some idle problems. The wiring up front near the P/S pump that you have pictured up close is for the A/C system and you don't have A/C, so ignore all of that. Tape/zip tie it up and clear and forget it. The single blue wire near the large single plug connector near the base of the windshield/firewall on the left side is the tach test wire... again, it doesn't go to anything. The original plug was likely cut off to connect an aftermarket tachometer. The single wire round plug (actually a two wire plug with only the upper wire actually pinned) should be for the knock sensor found on the back of a Y8 block but missing from a Y7 block, although I am not sure why you are showing it inside the car near the ECU with no wire color coming out of the back to help identify it.
That should get you started.
Next (assuming the wire colors are original and haven't been moved at the ECU end of the engine harness), your IAT sensor plug is connected to the fan switch on the thermostat housing. You also have the purge/cut solenoid connected to the VTEC pressure switch on the cylinder head. The vacuum line connected to the larger port at the very top of the throttle body is incorrect... disconnect it as it may create some idle problems. The wiring up front near the P/S pump that you have pictured up close is for the A/C system and you don't have A/C, so ignore all of that. Tape/zip tie it up and clear and forget it. The single blue wire near the large single plug connector near the base of the windshield/firewall on the left side is the tach test wire... again, it doesn't go to anything. The original plug was likely cut off to connect an aftermarket tachometer. The single wire round plug (actually a two wire plug with only the upper wire actually pinned) should be for the knock sensor found on the back of a Y8 block but missing from a Y7 block, although I am not sure why you are showing it inside the car near the ECU with no wire color coming out of the back to help identify it.
That should get you started.
#4
Re: 1999 Civic SI Minime Swap-lots of pictures
Yeah I know lol, I'm not too worried though as I have a daily, I had full knowledge of the wiring issue before hand. Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it!
#5
Re: 1999 Civic SI Minime Swap-lots of pictures
OP, you have a wiring nightmare here. First, there is no MAP sensor connected to your car... you have an OBD-0 type throttle body which has no provision for mounting a MAP sensor although it does have a brown/copper colored vacuum port to run a small vacuum line from the throttle body to the firewall where it would meet the firewall mounted MAP sensor normally found on most OBD-0 and a few OBD-1 applications. You can either find an OBD-1 style throttle body and clean up the install or zip tie a newer style MAP sensor to something close to the throttle body and run a vacuum line between the vacuum port and the MAP sensor. Then plug in the round 3-wire plug that you are holding up in the third picture you posted above... assuming that it is the correct wire colors.
Next (assuming the wire colors are original and haven't been moved at the ECU end of the engine harness), your IAT sensor plug is connected to the fan switch on the thermostat housing. You also have the purge/cut solenoid connected to the VTEC pressure switch on the cylinder head. The vacuum line connected to the larger port at the very top of the throttle body is incorrect... disconnect it as it may create some idle problems. The wiring up front near the P/S pump that you have pictured up close is for the A/C system and you don't have A/C, so ignore all of that. Tape/zip tie it up and clear and forget it. The single blue wire near the large single plug connector near the base of the windshield/firewall on the left side is the tach test wire... again, it doesn't go to anything. The original plug was likely cut off to connect an aftermarket tachometer. The single wire round plug (actually a two wire plug with only the upper wire actually pinned) should be for the knock sensor found on the back of a Y8 block but missing from a Y7 block, although I am not sure why you are showing it inside the car near the ECU with no wire color coming out of the back to help identify it.
That should get you started.
Next (assuming the wire colors are original and haven't been moved at the ECU end of the engine harness), your IAT sensor plug is connected to the fan switch on the thermostat housing. You also have the purge/cut solenoid connected to the VTEC pressure switch on the cylinder head. The vacuum line connected to the larger port at the very top of the throttle body is incorrect... disconnect it as it may create some idle problems. The wiring up front near the P/S pump that you have pictured up close is for the A/C system and you don't have A/C, so ignore all of that. Tape/zip tie it up and clear and forget it. The single blue wire near the large single plug connector near the base of the windshield/firewall on the left side is the tach test wire... again, it doesn't go to anything. The original plug was likely cut off to connect an aftermarket tachometer. The single wire round plug (actually a two wire plug with only the upper wire actually pinned) should be for the knock sensor found on the back of a Y8 block but missing from a Y7 block, although I am not sure why you are showing it inside the car near the ECU with no wire color coming out of the back to help identify it.
That should get you started.
Last edited by civicsi-1999; 11-13-2018 at 06:50 AM.
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