H22ek1

what distributor are you running ?

Tonchejulian

I'm swapping in a jdm h23a non vtec into my 2000 civic ex I got everything in and it turned on but its not idling correctly. I read something online about changing out the upper plenum on the intake manifold for a usdm one. Not sure if to get a usdm h23 upper plenum or if a h22 or f series plenum will fit also. Any info will help thank in advance.

djgoodwin

Hi !
I have JDM Integra DC1 AT, putting into JDM F20B with MT
Also i have stock F20B ECU, and stock F20B Engine wires, came inside.
How proper couple engine wires with chasis wires ?
Thnx, and sorry for my English.

paintballzero

I have a 1998 Civic Coupe EX swapped with a H22A4 engine from a 2001 Prelude. After some figuring, I ended up with a relatively simple way of getting power steering (p.s.) to work in my swap.

In a separate thread, it was recommended to use the bracket and power steering pump from a 1992-1996 Prelude. I bought them from a salvage yard and compared them to the 1997-2001 versions I already had (pictures below; the left side is the 1992-1996 version vs. on the right the 1997-2001 versions). The bracket for the 1992-1996 has a protruding bump on the backside (circled red) that would have to be cut/ground off as the H22A4 engine from my 2001 Prelude doesn't have that cavity. I didn't want to go through that trouble and find out the pump wasn't working, so I decided to return them and just use the 1997-2001 bracket and pump. The result is what I have below.



First, I used a smaller belt than recommended. The original size belt that is recommended (made by Gates) is K040400 (the "400" at the end means the belt has an effective circumference of 40.0 inches), but I installed K040395 (half an inch smaller). As you can see, to make room for the pulley, I cut and dented part of the metal headlight support (used a Dremel to make two slits and hammered the piece downward). By using a smaller belt, I didn't have to cut much of it away, but was still able to apply tension to the belt for it to work. I had to first slip the belt on then bolt up the pump to the bracket as it was a tight fit.





Finally (and this was the breakthrough), I used a specially made inlet fitting that rotates so I could route the hose upward around the pulley then down to the reservoir using my original Civic hose. The part is made by K-tuned and is extremely well made (link here); it even comes with an o-ring, which worked with the pump. I owe an extreme amount of thanks to Mike from K-tuned who went through the trouble of measuring their inlet and confirming that the dimensions of the part matched the dimensions of the Prelude inlet that I sent them. I ordered it with 3 day shipping and, because they shipped it the same day, I got it the next day (shipped from Ontario, Canada to California). The only difference, however, is that the Prelude inlet hose has an inner diameter of ~18 mm while the Civic inlet hose is ~16 mm. The K-tuned inlet fitting is also ~16 mm for where the hose connects, so it worked perfectly with what I had in mind.

There is a clearance issue as you can guess with the hose getting squished the between the headlight and the hood. I raised the hood latch mechanism a bit to make room for it. Hope this info is helpful for those wishing to get power steering working on your swap.

czyoen

Someone help please swap is completed h23 from a 94 prelude is in my 97 ek hatch need help with the wiring the h23 is a obo1 and I am using the 97 ek harness but need help with how to wire the dist with external coil and then what about the cps on the wire harness from 97 ek

czyoen

help me if you have gotten your answer please same question as you

JasonHi

Sorry if this was answered but for those guys running skunk2 intake manifold and PRO series throttle body, what throttle cable are you guys using? My stock TB cable worked fine with the Alpha series TB but now its too short. Currently running a 96 integra cable but full throttle is only at 85%. Chassis is an EG BTW.

Zack Short

Have you figured it out micah I have the same problem now if anyone knows please help!

chaseg93

F20b w/ t2t4 in 00 EK civic


This is written because of the lack of info in a single place so if I have missed something important just let me know

It’s also for any info that others want to add that can be useful, I got tired of reading through the faqs of people asking the same questions over and over

and pretty much every single big thread is geared towards eg swaps and running obd1, which I know why that is desirable but right now it saves money if I can run a stock ecu, while my motors stock.

Mounts

I bought used hasport h swap mounts

I also had to buy a rear t bracket from either a 94-97 accord MT or Prelude MT 97-01

Also my driver side post mount had to be swapped for an h22 post mount(block side)

Apparently the driver side mounts are different between accord and prelude and this is why you have to swap the block side driver post mounts, not real sure because I’ve only owned civics



Wiring/electrical

Since both my car and the engine I bought are OBD2B I will initially be using my ex harness and the PCB-004 ECU that came with the engine, im not sure if this will work and if it has a removable immo chip but we will see.

The distributor pin out is exactly the same on the f20b harness and the ex harness so im hopefull

Axels

I bought yonaka h swap axels off of ebay and ill report back on any isues I have if they arise

Additionally from what I read was if you had an accord half shaft (f -series I think) (has female end not male) that you can bolt that up and run 90-93 DA integra axles but you need to expand the snap rings so they wont come loose from the trans, again this is just what ive read.

exhaust

I purchased a megan racing header since my engine didn’t come with the lower portion of a stock manifold

I believe ill need to remove my cat and have my exhaust adjust but I will let you know



Misc minor mods

Fuel rail will either need to be swapped to a lhd model or you can extend/relocate your stock fuel lines.

No modification need to the stock injection system IE resister box

I went ahead and did a timing job which included timing belt, blance shaft belt, water pump, pulleys and switching to a manual tensionor

As far as the manual tensionor goes you can use any f series or h23 manual tensionor

The timing belt kit is for 97-01 prelude with an H22, the belt has one less tooth than the original and fits tight but it works.

Air conditioning/ power steering

Ive opted to keep ac and power steering

Innovative makes a bracket that lets you keep your d series compressor and stock ac, I purchased the knock off version on ebay for about 50 dollars less. We’ll see what happens

Im also keeping P/S and I plan to use an f22 or h22 bracket, imnot sure which will work better but I also need a pump from either motor and will have to figure out how to fabricate a hose for it

That being said I have to swap my crank pulley with a dual belt one from either a h22 or f22, I went with an f22 because of the price difference but please chime in if this will cause issues.

Still unsure how the belts will line up and which ones I will run

Shifter and cables

Haven’t decide on the route I want to take but you have a few options

Accord 94-97 shifter and cables, and 92-01 prelude shifter and cables should work( people complain about long throw and I believe the years are correct)

Rsx/ k series shifters and cables are also a possibility, you just need an adapter bracket where they connect to the trans which runs around 50 bucks

Just note you have to run h/f series shifter with the respective cables and k series shifters with k series cables.

Im not going to go into detail on cutting the shifter box hole you can find that many other places, but you basically cut a place for the shifter and a hole for the cables

Pics to come and maybe a video or two as I go through the process

donaldand

hey bro how is he yonaka axles? do you use 90-93 5 speed accord intermediate?