00b18ek

All right guys have a little question, I think I got it right but want to double check with you guys

I have a 2000 Civic Hatch CX running a 95 b18c1. I have a chasebays cm1 harness that runs obd1 everything injectors, dizzy, ecu, etc. I need to get it inspected and they double check check engine lights. Will a jumper harness to run an obd2b em1 ecu and wire in the 2nd o2 sensor with the cfk trick. Is there anything else that I am missing? Should this do the trick?

Katman

not sure what state you're in, but here in CA a jumper harness adapter (at the ecu) will not pass visual inspection.

but if they don't look at your ecu area, and you technically appease the OBD2 ecu's programming (ie. have everything hooked up so there are no CEL's), you should pass I would think. This would include doing the CKF bypass trick, wiring in the 2nd 02 sensor, and fingers crossed you don't get CEL for the fuel tank pressure sensor (sensor for low fuel light).

00b18ek

Ok I am in NC so not as bad as CA and hopefully it works :p

ditch diver

Ok ive gone from a b18a1 to a b20b. And now I have an issue it brakes up when giving gas. Like its missing. It feels as if the tps is bad. Where should I start for testing or diag. Or any options.

Katman

lets start with the basics... any cel lights? what year is your car/what OBD type are you running?

ditch diver

OK so I have a 95 civic. no cel but also don't know how to check it and far as I know there is no normal light on the dash. Im running a p28 ecu that has been chiped. So obd1

Katman

ok yes, you're OBD1.
So you're using a P28 ecu for a B20B non-vtec swap eh?
you should definitely have a check engine light (CEL) on if that's the case, unless the P28 has been reprogrammed for non-vtec use. Who or what place chipped your ecu?

here's how to CEL check:
http://ff-squad.com/technet/how-to/celcheck/

ditch diver

Ok so I bought this thing with a b18a1 in it running fine.( well untill it spun a rod berring).The ecu was already chipped, the chip has a sst on the top if that helps. It was non vtec so I assume it was reprogrammed for it. And im not showing any lights on the dash. But I did notice that it dosent have an o2 sensor. Could that be a possibility. And if so what sensor should I be running.

welopg

So guys.. I've been reading a lot of posts of b16a swap on an EJ8.

I just bought a B16a from an integra XSI 1992, but it came without the axles.

I'm very confused on what axles will fit, from what I read, any 94-01 integra axles will fit. Am I right?

Hope you can help me.

Katman

yes you can use any 94-01 integra manual transmission complete axles.
I assume you got a cable transmission with your XSi b16 swap? if so, I would highly suggest in selling/trading that trans for a hydro b16a transmission which is more suitable for your EJ8 vs. a cable transmission.

welopg

Great!!! ^^

Thanks for the info... i was using some adapted homemade axles but they didn't hold up the torque (as expected). I just borrow a complete set of integra type R axles, hope that they fit.

About the transmission. I live in Peru, here transnmissions are very expensive, I bought the hasport conversion kit though... so i'm ok with that

dmemenza

iTrader: (3)

Chimpun! Callao!

- DM

chamiman

Hi Katman,

I was wondering could you please help me as i have done conversion on mine jdm 99 1.5 EK3 with D15B 3-stage VTEC engine and now after the conversion car wont start. The lights on the dash come up as normal. All the connections/grounds seems to be right and all fluids level. we are using the same auto ecu. Using a Manual starter.

Now my mate who done the conversion thinks its the gearbox as that could have been seized/freeze but I haven't came a single thread of conversion where it mention that it could be due to Gearbox.

Could you please advise what could be the reason or point where we should look?
As if its gearbox then we will have to replace gearbox and have to open everything back again.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Katman

I'm not super familiar with the UK EK's. Several years back another fella from the UK hit me up for help but found out his EK had a unique 2 plug ECU iirc. Weirdest thing ever. I think he had a special model EK though.

Anyways, onto your topic...
I'm not super experienced with the auto to 5spd conversion swaps. I've never been involved with doing one as they seem like a hellish ordeal, I only know a handful of things that that swap requires from reading a number of threads.

But in regards to your situation, I assume you did all the basics (5spd pedal assembly, added hydro clutch line, etc). I think the problem lies within your interior wiring where the auto shifter mechanism is/was located. IIRC usually when an auto to 5spd conversion is performed, some center console wires need to be jump for the neutral safety switch because the ecu will think the car is in PARK position. They say all you need to do is 'unplug the blue box" ( https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...g#post48278788 ). BTW, you should really get a manual ecu too or cut a leg off the RP17 capacitor if you have an OBD1 ecu.

Check out this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bfaq%5D-96-00-auto-manual-swap-full-detail-44pics-1337459/
scroll down to WIRING and see if you can understand it even tho most of the photos are broken.

if you keep running the auto ecu you'll have symptoms like fluctuating idle and possibly check engine light for cel code 19 (lock solenoid). and I'm not sure if your original auto engine used a 3-wire or 2-wire IACV (with auto USDM EK's its usually a 3-wire IACV), your ecu will determine what IACV kind it needs or else CEL 14 will flash.

portablenarc

just a quick question because i seem to be finding different answers all over the place. i had my b16a set up in my 92 civic hatchback and i ended up pulling the entire swap out and purchased a stock 98 hatchback. i will be doing the swap and have everything pretty much figured out except for this whole shift linkage deal. All i would like to know is will the linkage i had set up in my 92 hatch be compatible with my 98 or will i run into problems with it going into gear correctly. i saw that it said 99,00 linkage but when i look up the part it just shows 92-00 shiftlinkage? thanks.

Katman

your complete B-series shift linkage that you had in your 92 civic is compatible with an EK chassis once you swap a B-series into it. You're good to go in the shift linkage dept.

portablenarc

HELP! ok so i did a jdm b16a (obd1) swap into my 98 cx hatch. The car is running off of a p30 ECU and i re wired the distributor, injectors, iat, and alternator. For the ECU i used rywire obd2-obd1 step down harness. I wired everything using the directions found in this thread. Currently the car is running but is in limp mode (cutting out at around 3500rpms). im almost positive this is due to the face that the car is throwing a code 4 (CKP). that is where im stuck. should i go ahead and replace the dizzy or is it something to do with the jumper harness for the ECU?

portablenarc

ok so i quADRUPLE checked my wiring and the only thing that dosent match up is the TDC + which on the diagram it says its green to green but in my case its green from the harness side and orange/blue on the obd1 distribuitor clip side. any idea if this is the cause of the problem? I am not getting a code for TDC so i wouldnt think this would be the problem

dmemenza

iTrader: (3)

Do you have one of these for a 96-99 Acura Integra (OBD2A)?

Thanks,

- DM

Katman

yep...

Trentobmkeim

Thanks for all the info on these swaps. Did you ever post the obd2a race car diagram? I didn't see it but maybe I didn't look hard enough.
The reason why I ask.....I am running a p28 crome ecu with an obd2a harness and an obd2a dizzy mounted on a random 4 cylinder that I am twin charging. As of right now I'm not planning on running iac as i am going to put a 5.0 mustang TB on a custom intake, so my goal is bare bones minimum sensors etc.
planning on doing a single O2, 3 bar gm map, Honda intake and coolent temp, mustang tps.
Now I'm not asking you to wire this thing for me over the Internet but with some combined information that I have gathered your "race car diagram" I think would help me out

SethEvans

"Make sure you pick up a 5-SPEED EX harness and not an AUTO EX harness. Auto EX harnesses are wired slightly different and will not allow your car to start. I have yet to figure out why."

Is this true for the 99-00 too?

I put a b18a1 in my 2000 civic dx and used and an Auto DX harness and it won't start. I've checked everything a million times I can't figure out what's wrong. thought maybe the auto harness may be the issue?

survivalgame

hello all....need some help....read a lot of this post....so many different swaps

i just bought a 2000 civic dx that has had a b18b1 and auto to manual swap...im trying to track down all the modifications because i dont think they were done right

1) it has a 37820-p2e-a12 (obd2b) honda ecu in it but i have the 37820-p75-a03 (obd2a) which i was told was from the b18b1....Which would be better to use or is there no real difference in fuel curves and programming and such?

2) speedo doesnt work so i checked the vehicle speed sensor and the plug was just sitting on it so i clicked it on and now i hear a grinding/scraping noise when i press in the clutch all the way and my key wont come out of ignition...i want to trace down the nuetral safety switch wires and see if they were spliced together but what could this noise be that im hearing ....i unplugged it and let the car sit with battery unhooked and it went away

atxtracker

Man, just read all 26 pages looking for my answer but wasn't quite clarified. I've got a 2000 civic and I dropped a 16y8 in running a p28 with a jumper. Not quite sure with harness is in it but it's an obd2b for sure. All the evap stuff has been removed from the car, not really concerned with that part. It's got an obd2 distributor with the big plug on it. The harness had the smaller plug and per your diagram, I spliced the big connector on it. It runs but it's a dog and won't rev past 3500rpm and idles real low and even lower w/ a/c on shaking violently wanting to die. CEL is on, DTC 4 is the only code. My question is, would the CYP trick fix this or do I need to wire the CKP sensor up and if I do, how?

Katman

no need for the CKF trick as you're using an OBD1 ecu. that trick is only required if you were running a USDM OBD2 ecu to power the Y8. I think you might've pinned the wires wrong when switching over to the OBD2 big dizzy plug. I know there's 2 white wires you can easily confuse/pin wrong. Might wanna re-look your dizzy wiring job.