nels00n

Bently_Coop

Where is the Lightweight flywheel comment?

I have the spacer and ITR flywheel installed. ITR is 14lbs using it for driveability.

nels00n

Bently_Coop

Information is correct.

@Bserious is Seth's screen name too.

nels00n

thanks yea man e-mail was taking too long so I just called today and got in contact with Seth very cool and humble dude. explained a bunch of **** to me over the phone (I'm a Hseries/H2B noob) and gave me a little discount to order the alternator alterative brackets and BS delete kit. I'm very happy lol so yea..

scottcraft

That's neat, didn't know that. I've had some interaction with Barrett Law on Facebook, he seems like a straight up guy too.

I think you have to sleeve an H series before css will work due to the frm sleeves, which makes css redundant imo. I don't know what they can handle as far as boost pressure in stock form.
This is giving me the itch again, lol. I can get an f23 from a buddy for free. I was planning on getting it and building a turbo g23, I might have to go ahead and pick that engine up.

nels00n

so I might as well darton sleeve it then?

and man if you can get a free f23 that you know you better go pick it up asap man before he changes his mind or sells it lol I'd have it sitting on a engine stand in my room hahaha

scottcraft

What's your power goal? Some of the guys here that know more than me could tell you if stock sleeves would be ok or not. From what I understand though you would have to sleeve it first then css and I think sleeves would be plenty.

Yeah, I need to get that motor. I could take my time, find an h22 head and do it right.

nels00n

I have everything for boost except an H22A turbo manifold since I got the Bseries one. my goal is ~450whp anything in that ball park figure unless I do the h2b N/A then around 230-250. I can always sell my kit to fund H22a parts lol. I concur sleeves alone should be more than sufficient.

and heck yea man get that motor asap and build the bottom end chilling do it once do it right. then whenever that's done get a h22a head. it's like me I'm just sourcing all the h2b swap parts needed but this swap aint going down anytime soon. **** i don't even have a H22a yet lol

scottcraft

Lol, you might be worse than me. I have a b20vtec in an em1 and it's got body damage so I have a 98 hx to swap the b series stuff into. With the heat I haven't made much progress, but I need to get on the ball.

nels00n

nels00n

had a payment error when sending payment to QSD but fixed that today. Alternator alternative kit and no BS delete kit has been shipped out and Seth also e-mailed me H2B kit install directions. straight up dude good customer service and shipping! also I called a a few local jdm import shops to look at some longblocks I only found 1 and its a euroR H22A stupid clean we'll see if I can make moves to get it.

Bently_Coop

Nice, no h23 vtec's available?

nels00n

HMO got obd1/2 jdm h22a and h23 pde/p13 available but with the price of them shipped i can get this local euroR, the local shop i get my engines at only has that 1 h22a R, they got a shipment in today too and it was filled with a bunch of b20s since that's their best seller. so thats my dilemma. i was honestly trying to get a regular jdm h22a. i've done little research on the h23 but from what i've read ill be closer to my 210-220whp NA with the h22a or euroR

Bently_Coop

Right on, I've just noticed the H23 Vtec is better for upgrading. EuroR will be sick though.

nels00n

elaborate what do you mean by better for upgrading? and yea if I get the euroR all I'll already have the single belt crank dampner aswell or does the h23 offer that aswell?

Bently_Coop

F20B also has the single pulley, for my EF setup it won't work. To close to the frame rail, I did post earlier in this thread about the spacer needed.

Here is a thread all about it.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/jdm-h23a-vtec-blue-top-mystery-motor-true-facts-questions-2341343/

nels00n

link wont work for me lol. and I don't want a f20b from what I've heard from peers I just want a regular obd1/2 jdm H22a lol but if when I'm ready to buy the longblock all I can find is that euroR then euroR it is lol

Bently_Coop

What I meant was the H23 Vtec, Euro R and F20B all have the single pulley. Euro will be sweet.

nels00n

good to know. well IDK from what I've researched I'll be good with a obd1/2 jdm h22a but I'll just have to wait til I can source one locally, though I'm not in a rush. worst comes to worst euroR it is haha I rather save a couple bucks and just go the route I was trying to go in the beginning anyways. for now I got a hi comp b20b that I'm bout to put a p8r head on and slap on my boost kit since all the local ppl around here bs'ing on buying it; but like I said I'm more of a N/A dude less stress less maintenance.

nels00n

^Sammy]!.

Guys any other fuel injectors that will be a straight up swap into H23A Blue Top manifold?

Reason I ask is my h23a blue top is running rich as **** to the point of when the car is running smoke irritates my eyes because of the amount of fuel mix.
I have changed the o2 sensor and installed an AFR gauge

Also can any tell me what the proper torque specs are for the F23A oil pan bolts.

JRCivic1

The actual spec is 8.7 ft/lbs or 104 in/lbs, but I historically go slightly lighter so as not to deform the pan gasket or pan dimples... so I use 7.5 ft/lbs. or 90 in/lbs.

Just to be clear... I only go lighter on the steel pans. If you are using an aluminum pan, I use the original spec.

nels00n

^Sammy]!.

I do plan to and thank you nels00n