Tkay08

[QUOTE=DA is best;46695915]Yeah I already got it spent and I havnt even got it yet, $550 for pro 1 cams, $220 for s2 cam gears, $750 for qsd h2b kit, $$$ for act 6 puck disc, $400 logic tri y header [/QUOTe
I'm curious I was gona go jdm camshafts and cam gears buttt..

Do you only have switch the camshafts and cam gears on the stock block if you're going pro 1 cams and s2 cam gears or do you have to switch the rods and all too? Idk shiit I wanna get aftermarket camshaft and cam gears too

DA is best

iTrader: (1)

My Stock jdm block will be fine, I already have aftermarket valvesprings and retainers...I only plan to rev it to 8200...but this stuff together has been a proven combo so that's why I'm goin that route

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

hows it going guys, im looking to build a h2b.. i used to have a h22 eg hatch with crappy h22 tranny so know im tryna go back but with a b series tranny...

im going to buy the h23 blue top from hmo and source out the easy parts like mounts, traction bar, header, tranny, clutch, flywheel.. pretty much all the simple stuff...

but my question is in regards to wiring? did u guys just mate an h harness with a b harness?? and is it possible to go obd0-obd2b?? or should i just sell obd2 stuff and get obd1 setup and go obd0-obd1??
im going to run s300 so should i just keep motor obd2???
im not keeping any accessories like p/s, abs, cc, ac...
so what kind of obstacles did u guys run into that you could tell me about???
did u have to bang anything or relocate anything??

also are h23's stock good with direct port wet nitrous??? i plan on spraying a 150 shot...

SP GARAGE

iTrader: (1)

WTB: h22 arp head studs.... I need another set

SL0WEGG

buy some new ones balller

SP GARAGE

iTrader: (1)

When I first bought my set it was $118 now ***** want $140+

sauceja

I used a b harness and just extended the alternator wiring (used piece of H harness and mended it with the b one) and extended a couple other sensors and wired in an injector resistor harness I had laying around.

Had crank pulley shaved down.
I would stay or go to OBD1 for ease of ECU options.

There is alot of info around now a days for this swap. Its been a few years since I ran this setup though.

Although it is a fun setup and I had an H22 block with F22 crank and forget what rods with Type S pistons blox b cams gutted out IM and BS eliminated.
Put down down 206 whp on a half *** street tune and got 31 mpg on the hwy.

It was fun.

papasito

Any reviews on that xcessive intake manifold?

http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com...step=4&pid=234

Also anyone one has a good h2b header for sale...no eBay junk.

SL0WEGG

taxing wtf? lol ****'s getting hot now they want to tax us?
I'm probably going to get that unless I see some bad review on it. Someone here was gonna do some testing on it soon so i'm not sure. I will probably have my mahle gold setup running before I get my 95mm setup in I should have something running mid-late april.

deucedeuceEK

Heres an idea for ek people wanting the newer eg style driverside qsd mount.

http://www.swapshopracing.com/contents/en-us/p4712.html

DA is best

iTrader: (1)

sure, i find out about this after i just bought a s2 mani

tonytone6929

hey guys i been reading on this thread alot, i have a question about a issue i have with my h2b in my eg. yesterday after doing a few runs, i come over some railroad tracks slow at a angle. after i cross the tracks my motor started to shake bad and i shut if off fast. now after sitting and looking for a while i noticed my motor was sideways.

now after finding out my driver side mount the 3 bolts that hold the mount stripped out. im speaking about the mount that hold the mount against the block not the actual mount itself. i have a evo h2b kit. it completely stripped out the 3 bolts. now i know i might have to pull my motor to fix it because its against the timing belt and cover there.

but my question is hows the best way to repair the block side of the mount? any input would be great thanks guys

SL0WEGG

Depends how bad it is. If it were me, I'd be looking for a new shortblock.

tonytone6929

i did say they are stripped, like the bolts inside dont thread anymore. anyone have any other input? maybe a helicoil or tap again with larger bolt? or just replace the block because of it?

YeeJ6

Throw a timesert in that bitch and call it a day. And always torque nuts and bolts to specs so u don't run into this kind of issue in the first place.

Tkay08

I know this is an a NO answer but will this keep up with k20? I want type s etc.

SL0WEGG

my bad, assumed it tore itself off. How does that even happen though? bolts too short?

SL0WEGG

You should be able to keep up/beat em. All the ones around here aren't very fast. Even those laying 220whp.

tonytone6929

hey man to be honset i think the h2b block mount is thick and the bolts used are too short and it just rattled out and it stripped all 3 of them out. . so i have to pull the motor out.

SL0WEGG

If that is the case. Helicoil or re-tap

jaw0885

bolts are too short! same thing happened to me with my EVO kit. We went with a larger bolt

Tkay08

good looking. I hope my list will do it. I really wanna upgrade up to type s ECT.

SPOON_BeIgHtEeNsEe

anyone looking for an car? look below in my sig, my hatch is for sale

simike

I agree, if only the top several threads stripped use longer bolts.

I bumped your thread. The car is very nice as is, but would be a great starting point for a serious build!

SP GARAGE

iTrader: (1)

Here's a drag header jack made for my h2b setup