Wire tuck, Battery Relocation, Fusebox Relocation
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Wire tuck, Battery Relocation, Fusebox Relocation
well, since its my b-day and I'm gonna make a nice lil project for myself I'm going to finish my wire-tuck, battery relocation and hide the fusebox (maybe). I'll snap some pics on what I did so it can help some others out later on, before I start it up I got a few parts:
wire:
-10 feet of 2ga wire (home depot, braided - stiff crap)
-also used some jumper wire cable wire for flexibility (2ga wire)
connections:
-small distribution block (so I can mount under dash, one wire to the fusebox, another wire going to the starter)
-couple of ring terminals (4 2ga for starter, ground and circuit breaker, 2 6ga for fusebox)
fusing stuff:
-automotive 150amp circuit breaker inline from the battery terminal to the 2ga cable running to the front of the car
-another inline fuse running to my capacitor/amp
-I'm also running one of those + terminals that have multiple outlets (had one laying around)
misc:
-battery tray (gotta figure how/where to mount it in the trunk)
EDIT:
found this thread on here w/ a fusebox diagram - pretty usefull
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1951157
-the fusebox actually sits nicely under the dash, trying to find a way to mount it sturdily with the oem bracket
EDIT: here are some (crappy) pics, I'mma wait to see if the rain dies down a bit b4 I start up again (random new england weather sucks )
this pic shows the fusebox removed, and the harness loom seperated, I tried to point out some stuff here, but the crappy razr-cam + the car being dark doesn't help
here is how the small distribution block looks under the dash (before I mount it where it will permanently will be, I'm making sure there is sufficient slack so I can mount it securely and not worry about the insulation on the cables getting caught on anything. You can also see the fusebox mounted in the background (kinda).
any input/discussion would be pretty nice (I might have some pics up by tomorrow, depending on how my night out goes lol).
-l8r
Modified by AmauryR at 10:10 AM 4/17/2007
wire:
-10 feet of 2ga wire (home depot, braided - stiff crap)
-also used some jumper wire cable wire for flexibility (2ga wire)
connections:
-small distribution block (so I can mount under dash, one wire to the fusebox, another wire going to the starter)
-couple of ring terminals (4 2ga for starter, ground and circuit breaker, 2 6ga for fusebox)
fusing stuff:
-automotive 150amp circuit breaker inline from the battery terminal to the 2ga cable running to the front of the car
-another inline fuse running to my capacitor/amp
-I'm also running one of those + terminals that have multiple outlets (had one laying around)
misc:
-battery tray (gotta figure how/where to mount it in the trunk)
EDIT:
found this thread on here w/ a fusebox diagram - pretty usefull
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1951157
-the fusebox actually sits nicely under the dash, trying to find a way to mount it sturdily with the oem bracket
EDIT: here are some (crappy) pics, I'mma wait to see if the rain dies down a bit b4 I start up again (random new england weather sucks )
this pic shows the fusebox removed, and the harness loom seperated, I tried to point out some stuff here, but the crappy razr-cam + the car being dark doesn't help
here is how the small distribution block looks under the dash (before I mount it where it will permanently will be, I'm making sure there is sufficient slack so I can mount it securely and not worry about the insulation on the cables getting caught on anything. You can also see the fusebox mounted in the background (kinda).
any input/discussion would be pretty nice (I might have some pics up by tomorrow, depending on how my night out goes lol).
-l8r
Modified by AmauryR at 10:10 AM 4/17/2007
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Re: (Ludster)
I was just searching for some info on the fuse size, I'm going to run it about a foot from the positive terminal on the battery itself (its the same one that the amp kit used, don't know the rating - came with the car). Any suggestions? I would think it wouldn't be higher than the fuses in the fusebox it connects to.
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Re: Wire tuck, Battery Relocation, Fusebox Relocation (AmauryR)
Personally I didn't like my battery in the trunk because you have a long heavy cable going accross the car and it takes up trunk space. So then I moved the under-hood fuse box under the dash and put a lightweight batter where it used to go. Then a while later I spent the time to also put the battery under the dash and it came out pretty good.
Here's my battery and fuse box under the dash:
and nothing in the engine bay:
Here's my battery and fuse box under the dash:
and nothing in the engine bay:
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Re: Wire tuck, Battery Relocation, Fusebox Relocation (Hawkze_2.3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personally I didn't like my battery in the trunk because you have a long heavy cable going accross the car and it takes up trunk space. So then I moved the under-hood fuse box under the dash and put a lightweight batter where it used to go. Then a while later I spent the time to also put the battery under the dash and it came out pretty good.
Here's my battery and fuse box under the dash:
and nothing in the engine bay:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
dam dude that bat is strong enough to spin over the car. where the hell did u get it.
Here's my battery and fuse box under the dash:
and nothing in the engine bay:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
dam dude that bat is strong enough to spin over the car. where the hell did u get it.
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Re: Wire tuck, Battery Relocation, Fusebox Relocation (jdmlude5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dam dude that looks good. that bat is strong enough to turn over the car. where the hell did u get it</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is a Odyssey PC-680 battery and yes, it cranks the car over just like any other full-size. You can get them from Batteries+ or other places online.
That is a Odyssey PC-680 battery and yes, it cranks the car over just like any other full-size. You can get them from Batteries+ or other places online.
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Re: Wire tuck, Battery Relocation, Fusebox Relocation (Hawkze_2.3)
Hawkze, nice setup - I'm loving the battery steup. hopefully my engine bay will look similar to that by tommorow (I'm still keeping a/c n p/s).
-I was thinking of using a optima in the trunk (sealed battery), securing it w/ a tie-down n bracket bolted up.
-running the 2ga wire where I had my old 4ga wire for the amp.
-putting a dist block up by the heater box area so I can tap one line off to the fusebox (when it goes down there) also
-then I'll run a wire out to the starter (from one of the dist block outlets) thru the grommet for the main harness and connect it that way
-I need to figure out a decent spot to ground the battery (I'm thinking the rear bumper support bracket bolts?), I don't want the ground to be longer than a foot n a half.
-do my amp + capacitor wiring neatly to the battery
-celebrate w/ some coronas n lime!
PS. Hawkze, that small battery sounds like a nice idea tho, as long as the battery can crank the car over - the alternator does the rest of the work. I'm getting out of class around 3, so I should be able to start the project n get some pics up (before I go out tonight anyways).
-l8r
-I was thinking of using a optima in the trunk (sealed battery), securing it w/ a tie-down n bracket bolted up.
-running the 2ga wire where I had my old 4ga wire for the amp.
-putting a dist block up by the heater box area so I can tap one line off to the fusebox (when it goes down there) also
-then I'll run a wire out to the starter (from one of the dist block outlets) thru the grommet for the main harness and connect it that way
-I need to figure out a decent spot to ground the battery (I'm thinking the rear bumper support bracket bolts?), I don't want the ground to be longer than a foot n a half.
-do my amp + capacitor wiring neatly to the battery
-celebrate w/ some coronas n lime!
PS. Hawkze, that small battery sounds like a nice idea tho, as long as the battery can crank the car over - the alternator does the rest of the work. I'm getting out of class around 3, so I should be able to start the project n get some pics up (before I go out tonight anyways).
-l8r
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Re: Wire tuck, Battery Relocation, Fusebox Relocation (AmauryR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AmauryR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PS. Hawkze, that small battery sounds like a nice idea tho, as long as the battery can crank the car over - the alternator does the rest of the work. I'm getting out of class around 3, so I should be able to start the project n get some pics up (before I go out tonight anyways).
-l8r</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like e good plan.
The only thing with the smaller batteries is if you have any kind of stereo system. I have no radio, so it's not a concern for me, but if you have an amp (sounds like you do) or subs it might not be enough power for you...
PS. Hawkze, that small battery sounds like a nice idea tho, as long as the battery can crank the car over - the alternator does the rest of the work. I'm getting out of class around 3, so I should be able to start the project n get some pics up (before I go out tonight anyways).
-l8r</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like e good plan.
The only thing with the smaller batteries is if you have any kind of stereo system. I have no radio, so it's not a concern for me, but if you have an amp (sounds like you do) or subs it might not be enough power for you...
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Damn hawkze thats sick.
Is that the mount odyssey provides? if so I'll buy picking one up and putting it just like you :D How was the wire tuck? I know preludes got tons of wires and accessories compared to other cars.. Idk if I want to take the task of adding longer wires and resoldering haha.
Is that the mount odyssey provides? if so I'll buy picking one up and putting it just like you :D How was the wire tuck? I know preludes got tons of wires and accessories compared to other cars.. Idk if I want to take the task of adding longer wires and resoldering haha.
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Re: (GraphiteMW)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GraphiteMW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn hawkze thats sick.
Is that the mount odyssey provides? if so I'll buy picking one up and putting it just like you :D How was the wire tuck? I know preludes got tons of wires and accessories compared to other cars.. Idk if I want to take the task of adding longer wires and resoldering haha.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, that mount is a Home Depot special bracket cut and bent by me. The wire tuck is really something I've been doing off and on for several years....the more wires you hide, the deeper you get an then you find more wires to hide
Is that the mount odyssey provides? if so I'll buy picking one up and putting it just like you :D How was the wire tuck? I know preludes got tons of wires and accessories compared to other cars.. Idk if I want to take the task of adding longer wires and resoldering haha.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, that mount is a Home Depot special bracket cut and bent by me. The wire tuck is really something I've been doing off and on for several years....the more wires you hide, the deeper you get an then you find more wires to hide
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Re: (Hawkze_2.3)
Really like this thread when I get back home I am thinking about starting my wire tuck. I really like Hawkze tuck looks clean as hell! AmuaryR can't wait to see what yours ends up like, good luck.
#17
while hawkze has a clean install, think just one minute about its functioinality..
jumpstarting his battery is going to be nearly impossible, as well as changing and fuses in that box are going to be VERY hard. Putting the battery in the trunk is a lot better idea I think. And as far as the fuse box, i would put it right next to the ECU so at least if i need to change a fuse I dont have to get up under my dash with a flashlight
jumpstarting his battery is going to be nearly impossible, as well as changing and fuses in that box are going to be VERY hard. Putting the battery in the trunk is a lot better idea I think. And as far as the fuse box, i would put it right next to the ECU so at least if i need to change a fuse I dont have to get up under my dash with a flashlight
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Re: (TylerC161)
Well, for jump starting the car - I was thinking of leaving a provision underhood for a positive terminal for jumping the car (got the idea from my friend's dad's X5, has terminals mounted on the shock tower for jumping the car). Would be easy to do since I'm running a wire to the starter, and I can probably tie it off that wire. for a ground, I can probably get away with grounding to the chassis somewhere (should it be necessary).
sidenote: (Other stuff I got rid of when I did my semi-tuck)
-removed a ton of misc. or "extra" brackets from engine bay
-mounted my map sensor under the I.M.
-rotated the booster nipple (I.M.) and ran the hose under the master cylinder
-removed the egr stuff on the driver's side (vac. lines included), might have to wire it up to get rid of the CEL (or get a p28 )
-when I did the headlights, tucked most of the harness in the corner of the bumper (cruise control plugs, those egr sensors, bolted headlight grounds on opposite side of bay)
-injector harness ran from under the intake manifold (clips face down, so you don't see the plugs)
-most of the driver's harness pulled and ran behind/under the underhood fuse box (It's outta sight but I'll take care of that tomorrow along with the fusebox hopefully - damn n.e. weather).
the only wires really visible from the engine bay as it stands is the + wires from the battery to the fusebox + for my amp, ground and the spark plug wires (can't really do much bout those lol). yeah, I'm keeping my system - its my dd so I don't mind having some thumps at the sacrafice (I give props to those that do - Hawkze, etc...).
-l8r
sidenote: (Other stuff I got rid of when I did my semi-tuck)
-removed a ton of misc. or "extra" brackets from engine bay
-mounted my map sensor under the I.M.
-rotated the booster nipple (I.M.) and ran the hose under the master cylinder
-removed the egr stuff on the driver's side (vac. lines included), might have to wire it up to get rid of the CEL (or get a p28 )
-when I did the headlights, tucked most of the harness in the corner of the bumper (cruise control plugs, those egr sensors, bolted headlight grounds on opposite side of bay)
-injector harness ran from under the intake manifold (clips face down, so you don't see the plugs)
-most of the driver's harness pulled and ran behind/under the underhood fuse box (It's outta sight but I'll take care of that tomorrow along with the fusebox hopefully - damn n.e. weather).
the only wires really visible from the engine bay as it stands is the + wires from the battery to the fusebox + for my amp, ground and the spark plug wires (can't really do much bout those lol). yeah, I'm keeping my system - its my dd so I don't mind having some thumps at the sacrafice (I give props to those that do - Hawkze, etc...).
-l8r
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Re: (TylerC161)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TylerC161 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">while hawkze has a clean install, think just one minute about its functioinality..
jumpstarting his battery is going to be nearly impossible, as well as changing and fuses in that box are going to be VERY hard. Putting the battery in the trunk is a lot better idea I think. And as far as the fuse box, i would put it right next to the ECU so at least if i need to change a fuse I dont have to get up under my dash with a flashlight</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lets do think about it..
and give me a little credit here. I'm not completely retarded
The positive terminal to jump the car is the starter positive. Yes, it works fine.
The fuse box is very easy to get...just like getting to the glove box.
jumpstarting his battery is going to be nearly impossible, as well as changing and fuses in that box are going to be VERY hard. Putting the battery in the trunk is a lot better idea I think. And as far as the fuse box, i would put it right next to the ECU so at least if i need to change a fuse I dont have to get up under my dash with a flashlight</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lets do think about it..
and give me a little credit here. I'm not completely retarded
The positive terminal to jump the car is the starter positive. Yes, it works fine.
The fuse box is very easy to get...just like getting to the glove box.
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They sell those terminals on summit racing
Its pretty sick to see those little dudes in the appearance/cosmetic section clean up there engine bays.. not many prelude guys do much of that stuff
Its pretty sick to see those little dudes in the appearance/cosmetic section clean up there engine bays.. not many prelude guys do much of that stuff
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Re: (jdmlude5)
Looks good! Don't forget and leave your headlights on though... that is one problem with those small batteries.
btw, what throttle body is that?
btw, what throttle body is that?
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Re: (flyrod)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks good! Don't forget and leave your headlights on though... that is one problem with those small batteries.
btw, what throttle body is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, they don't leave much room for error.
That's a Edelbrock ITR 70mm TB + adaptor plate.
btw, what throttle body is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, they don't leave much room for error.
That's a Edelbrock ITR 70mm TB + adaptor plate.