Acidcrakker

Hey guys, guess what. I was able to fix all my codes today. No Cel light comes on any more. I fixed code 1,10,12,22 for now.

But there is a solid cell light when I jump the cel harness. Reason why I checked it is cause I fixed the code 22 today so I can have my vtec, but it didnt work so I tried jumping my cel light and its solid.

Now solid cell light means bad ecu. but, it runs the car still everything, but vtec????

Now Im pretty lost as to what the reason is for this.


My bad about all the mulitiple posts now.

98vtec

find the power wire for the ecu. Make sure you are getting 12v to it. Pull the top case off the ecu and look for any burn marks on the circuit board.

Acidcrakker

WHich ecu pin is it, Im looking in the faqs right now and not seeing which pin it is.
Pin---Color---------Desc.
A1----brn-----------Injector #1
A2----yel-----------Injector #4
A3----red1---------Injector #2
A4----grn/yel------VTEC Solenoid Valve
A5----blu-----------Injector #3
A6----or/wht-------HO2S heater coil
A7----grn/blk1-----PGM-FI Main Relay coil
A8----grn/blk2-----Shorted to A7
A9----blk/blu-------IAC Valve
A10
A11----red2--------EGR Control Solenoid
A12----blu/red-----Condenser Fan Relay
A13----blu/wht-----MIL
A14
A15----red/blu-----A/C Clutch Relay
A16----wht/grn-----Alternator
A17----pink---------IAB Solenoid Valve
A18----orn/red-----FAS (A/T)
A19----wht----------Intake Control Solenoid Valve
A20----red/grn-----EVAP Purge Control Solenoid
A21----yel/grn1----ICM
A22----yel/grn2----Shorted to A21
A23----blk1---------GND
A24----blk2---------GND
A25----yel/blk------PGM-FI Main Relay (power)
A26----blk/red------VTEC Pressure Switch (GND)

B1----yel/blk--------PGM-FI Main Relay (power)
B2----brn/blk-------GND
B3----orn1----------AFSA (A/T)
B4----pnk-----------AFSB (A/T)
B5----blu/blk--------To A/C Switch
B6
B7----lt grn---------ATP PN Gear Posisiton (A/T)
B8----red/grn-------PSP Switch
B9----blu/red-------Starter Cut Relay
B10---orn2----------VSS
B11---orn3----------CYP
B12---wht-----------CYP
B13---orn/blu-------TDC
B14---wht/blu-------TDC
B15---blu/grn-------CKP
B16--blu/yel--------CKP

D1----wht/yel-------Battery
D2----grn/wht1-----Brake Switch
D3----red/blu-------KS
D4----brn/wht------SCS
D5
D6----lt blu or lt grn-VTEC Pressure Switch
D7----lt grn/red----Data Link Connector
D8
D9----wht/red------ALT
D10---grn/blk------ELD
D11--red/blk-------TP Sensor
D12---wht/blk------EGR Valve Lift Sensor
D13---yel/blu-------ECT Sensor
D14---wht----------HO2S Sense
D15---red/yel------IAT Sensor
D16
D17---wht/blu------MAP Sensor
D18---lt grn/blk----VREF (A/T)
D19---red/wht------EGR Valve Lift Sensor
D20---yel/wht------TP Sensor
D21---blu/wht------MAP Sensor
D22---grn/wht2----TP Sensor

Acidcrakker

14 volts to D1.

Which says battery, so Im guessing thats the power wire.

vlang29

Signal goes to green/yellow vtec solenoid wire. When engaged, the solenoid opens oil passageways to engage the VTEC pins in the followers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...lated


at 15 seconds into the movie, that's the vtec solenoid.

Acidcrakker

Well I cleaned the Vtec system out today.

I stripped off one of the bolts that hold the Vtec Oil Pressure Housing off into the head today. So now there is 2 out of 3 bolts holding it on.

I took it to my tuner today to see if he can get it out. He said as long as its not leaking oil, dont worry about it. Which it is not. Or if it is, its so small an ammount I cant really notice it.

Anyway. I think Im cracking Vtec, oh baby!!!

But its such a small hange in pitch makes me think that the soleniod is bad. And it wont crack every time.

Some one told me its the butterfly valve that is changing thr pitch of the motor. But I doubt thats it.

I was testing the Vtec solenoid today. I was running the car and pulling on the throtal, and take the solenoid wire and sticking it on the positive batter terminal. It would change the pitch of the motor, but nothing aww to inspiring. So I believe the Solenoid valve is not responding to good, or not opening up fully.

shutta

when i jumped my cel harness and got a solid cel i just turned the key back, pulled out the jumper, re-inserted it, and repeated as necessary. sometimes it just didn't want to show me the codes but eventually it worked...

swappyturbo

Hi, Do you mean you got to read the CEL codes after a few trys?
Mine is doing the same, i tried 2 times so far, cant read any codes..I will keep on trying for a bit, hopefully might be able to read some codes then...

Acidcrakker

If you get a CEL light, and pull the codes than there is no light blinking, that means its code zero. And your ECU is fried.

If however there is no CEL light and you go to pull the codes, and the CEL light is solid and does not blink, it means that there is no codes stored in the ECU.

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you get a CEL light, and pull the codes than there is no light blinking, that means its code zero. And your ECU is fried.

If however there is no CEL light and you go to pull the codes, and the CEL light is solid and does not blink, it means that there is no codes stored in the ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep!

Or, if you have an Hondata S100 that's been tuned with the latest Romeditor, it won't flash a code either, even when there is one.