thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

I have a 98 prelude with an h22 euro-r and t2w4 lsd transmission. I ended up replacing the clutch when I first did the swap, because the throw out bearing made noise and I wasn't a fan of the gripforce clutch. I replaced it with an exedy oem clutch and a 10lb flywheel. Long story short the damn throw out bearing is making a squeaking noise again (only when clutch isn't pressed in) so I am thinking its a bent shift release fork or something I am not thinking of. I need some insight on this issue, the new clutch\flywheel setup only has 4,000 miles on it. Any input ot ideas is greatly appreciated.

Another issue I wanted to add is I have always struggled a bit when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. There isnt any grinding from the trans when I shift, but it feels sticky or sluggish to go into 2nd gear. I don't know if this is from the clutch or if a bent release bearing fork can cause shifting issues, or if it is a bad synchro. This issue has been with me ever since I first swapped in the engine.

integra_101

been through the same thing. I changed my tranny thinking it was the throw out and input shaft bearing. New tranny, new clutch kit.... my money is on bent fork.

im pretty sure we can change the fork without taking the trans out.

holmesnmanny

The throwout bearing is only working/moving when the clutch is pressed down.

Can you describe more clearly what the sound sounds like and when exactly it happens. A great video with great audio quality would go a long way here.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

I agree I think its the damn release bearing fork that is bent. I dont mind changing it out to see if its the culprit and while I am in there might as well change the throw out bearing to.

The sound is not the easiest to explain, but it sounds like a high pitched squeeking just like the same noise when your bearing is going bad on you. It only happens when my clutch pedal isnt pressed in. I can make the noise go away when I take up the clutch pedal slack. So I guess the only way to truly tell is take the transmission off, replace the bearing and fork, and keep my fingers crossed the sound is gone.

holmesnmanny

Thats not what the problem is but since you want to pull the tranny so bad im going to let you. When you pull your tranny and reinstall it, come back to this thread and update and i will yell you what the real issue is.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Well I dont want to pull the tranny at all, I was just saying that I am truly guessing what the issue is. Holmesnmanny it would be awesome if you could tell me your ideas or the answer to this issue I am having. I really want to get to the bottom of this.

holmesnmanny

First try this. With the engine idling, spray some silicone spray where the fork meets the ball piece of the slave cylinder. See if the noise goes away. If it does, take the sc off and put some grease at the fork where it meets the ball piece.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Okay I will try this first and see what happens with noise. If it doesn't go away would you recommend anything else before taking off the transmission? I really want to stay away from this since the last time I did it, it took me way to long to get it back on. (I didn't have a trans jack though, just the old school way of using a normal jack)

holmesnmanny

its very common to have that sound coming from that spot unless you grease it

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Could be a pilot bearing also.

What type of grease did you use when you installed everything?

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

In all honesty I used walmart brand hi temperature all purpose grease, it was the only thing I had at the time. Im sure I was not supposed use this, can anyone tell me what I should be using?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Ideally, Honda high temp urea. Polyurea grease is perfect for this application. But you can substitute high temp bearing grease too.

Did you use a mallet/wood block/press for the flywheel pilot bearing? Or a hammer :'(

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The throw out bearing does have a small amount of force holding it to the pressure plate (the slave cyl rod is loaded via spring). So yes...it spins with your foot off the clutch. My FG Si made a squeaking noise and I replaced the Exedy supplied bearings with genuine Honda parts.

Just do that. They're fairly inexpensive, and you can clean off the walmart grease and use polyurea for insane smoothness.

I use bernardiparts.com for honda parts.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replies, and the h22 didnt come with a pilot bearing for the flywheel. So I really only have to worry about the throw out bearing and the clutch release fork at this point. I will just end up replacing both and using some of the poly grease. I guess its time to buy a transmission jack and get to work on fixing this issue.

holmesnmanny

If its making a noise when the clutch pedal is NOT pushed in then the issue is almost surely the input shaft bearing. Its best to replace both the inboard and outboard. The inboard one, the one located at the input shaft seal is always the one making noise tho the outboard one, the one on the opposite end could be going bad as well. Its best to swap out both while youre in there.

Again the throwout bearing only makes noise when its bad when the clutch is pressed in.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Holmesnmanny do I have to rip apart my transmsission to replace the input shaft bearings? I am not to savey on transmissions and taking them apart. I did find a good write up from preludezone: http://www.preludezone.com/5th-gen-honda-prelude/39947-diy-m2y4-transmission-rebuild-guide-w-pictures.html, it has a step by step instructions on trans rebuilding. I would be a bit timid to try this on my own as it would be my first time.

holmesnmanny

You don't seem to understand how a throwout bearing works.

Assuming you installed it correctly, the outside grabs/slides onto the tranny. The bearing itself then will never turn or spin UNLESS the clutch pedal is pushed down. After about an inch or so of clutch pedal travel, assuming you have the correct amount of free play, the throwout bearing will touch the pressure plate. At that exact point in time as it contacts the pressure plate, it will start to spin. If you continue to push the clutch pedal down, the pressure plate will draw the input shaft away from the crank until it's free and at that time the inputshaft/mainshaft will stop spinning. When the inputshaft/mainshaft stops spinning the input shaft bearing/bearings will stop moving and thus will stop making noise, assuming they are going bad.

Getting back to the initial inch of clutch pedal travel, if the noise/squeak stops, then you simply need to grease the small ball piece of the slave cylinder that contacts the fork. I don't know what causes the sound exactly but something vibrates.

*Clutch Slave Cylinder - Auto Parts Fair®

The exact piece I'm talking about is the bronze colored ball at the bottom left of this slave cylinder. Just put a big glob of grease on the ball. You can't really over grease it. It won't hurt anything to. It's two 10mm head bolts. Take off the slave, grease the end, put it back on.

If the sound is still there until you push the pedal down and until a little before the pedal bottoms out to the floor, which is when the input shaft fully releases, then the issue is likely the input shaft bearing however it usually makes a roaring sound not a squealing sound.

The input shaft bearing replacement is not really hard at all. You don't need to take apart the shafts, you just remove them/lift them out like it says in that instruction and tap/knock out the bearing from the case, freeze the new one, heat up the area you will be putting the bearing back in so it expands using a heat gun or a torch, and take the new one out of the freezer which causes it to shrink slightly for you and drop it in. The other one on the other hand will just pull off, being careful not to allow anything under it to come with it. Then you just gently tap the new on back on. That one needs to go on one way and as you take that old one off you will just keep track which way it goes back on. You will not need to check and adjust any clearances as bearings are very exact.

I'm not sure exactly which bearings you need to buy since that's a euro r tranny but I'm sure the synchrotech guys will not only know which ones to buy but they will surely have them in stock.

holmesnmanny

If you want to pull and replace the throwout bearing that's your choice, but why would you think a new throwout bearing would make the same sound as the old supposely "bad" one ?

holmesnmanny

I just found a great thread

https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...parts-1999434/

One thing I will say is that when you pull the case apart, there will be metal piece that lines up with the case that is underneath the top bearing pictured. You need to keep track of how exactly that piece is situated. It needs to be put back in the same exact spot or the case won't close.

You will damage the input shaft seal as you tap out the bad bottom bearing so buy a new input shaft seal and tap it back in in a circular motion working your way around as you tap it in bit by bit. Make sure to grease the inner lip too if you buy an aftermarket seal. However if you buy a Honda OEM input shaft seal it will come pregreased so you won't need to worry about it.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Wow holmesnmanny thank you so much for all the super helpful information and the link. I was curious to ask you if rebuilding my transmission myself would be difficult, since it would be my first time. I am speaking of a rebuild kit so the synchros and all the bearings from synchrotech?

holmesnmanny

I would be sure to take good pics and number everything you take off so you can easily put it back. You are going to need a press of some sort to press off the gears and put the gears etc etc back on after changing out the parts.

Please be sure to properly grease that spot and check to see if the noise goes away first. I dont want you to have to pull the tranny unless you have to.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

...the throw out bearing always sits against the clutch. It does spin with your foot off the clutch.

The slave cylinder has a spring inside of it. It always preloads the bearing JUST slightly against the clutch.

Try grabbing your clutch fork with the slave cylinder attached. You can tell there's a tiny amount of force pushing it towards the pressure plate.

Or...think of when you install a slave cylinder. If you were to try letting to of the body of it, the piston would expand out, yes? Notice that you have to squeeze the slave cylinder against the fork the whole time you put in the bolts.

What is preventing the bearing from contacting the pressure plate at all times then?

A small squeak squeak squeak sound with your foot off the clutch CAN come from the throw out bearing. The throw out bearing is a very likely culprit. It was the culprit on my 06 Si...which has a push type clutch just like a prelude.

holmesnmanny

Define exactly what clutch free play is and what it references.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Clutch freeplay is a measure of how close the MASTER cylinder PUSH ROD is to the piston that pushes fluid. It doesn't create/take away slop in a closed hydraulic system if that's what you're implying.

It just makes it so you need to push the pedal less/more before you start pushing on the master cylinder piston.

Its not like having more freeplay sucks fluid away from the circuit.

You can set the freeplay too sloppy and the slave cylinder will still be pre-loaded and there will still be solid fluid behind its piston, correct?

More to think about:

There can be NO fluid at all in the system. The slave cylinder will still preload the bearing the same amount.

You've never put a slave cylinder on/taken one off? Grab a new one out of the box and compress it. It has a spring inside it. It will expand when you let go of it.

When it's installed on a trans, its expansion stops when the throw out bearing rests on the clutch fingers.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

I will grease that spot and take off my slave cylinder to do so. I hope it goes away but of course there is no guarantee, I would hate to have to pull the trans but then again ever since I first put in the swap the shifting from first to second has always been not the smoothest in the world. If I do have to pull it apart and use a press would a bearing puller be best to use in this situation or are you speaking of like an actual shop press for the bearings?