PirateMcFred

If you're tuning the engine's ecu then you can just verify with a timing light what the laptop says the software's running at idle. TDC and all that doesn't really matter as long as it's actually running the indicated ign. advance.

There are a lot of variables that need to be accounted for before determining why your dyno was "low."

Redline4Life

iTrader: (1)

great info...... planning on doing the same build boosted..

mph22@

Hey props to your thread!
I love this Idea But I was wondering exactly just how reliable doing somthing like this would be?
enough to drive it daily? just asking for advise

flyrod

I think he drove it daily for several years (this thread started in 2004), and also road raced it for a few thousand miles.

Johnrb

Could you run this with a k20 rod and h22 type s piston to avoid having to modify the head for clearance?
or is that a bad idea, and if so.. why?

PirateMcFred

You can.

Shortening the rod doesn't help the R/S ratio and the heavy Type-S slugs will add to the vibration quite a bit while being in the hole quite a bit.

Bosnianking1990

hey everyone im new to the honda game.. and was wondering if i could use the stock f23 block with no mods and just put the h23 head on....

InvaderTrax

It's been asked and answered several times in the thread. Yes you can. You'll have a pretty low CR. You will still have to change the lower timing gear

waynecoSI

I know this thread has not been posted on in a little while but here it is:


I am building this motor for my accord and I just set the head on the block to see the reason that the one oil port needs to be plugged off and on my F23A1 block, all 6 of the oil drains match up with the block...

I took pictures of all 6 of them on my phone but I dont have a way to post them on the forum. Is it because of the headgasket doesnt line up with that one drain?

PirateMcFred

There's just one section of the F23 head gasket that isn't clamped by the H23 head in that one corner. A little goo or epoxy/JB Weld/real weld will prevent that section of the HG from leaking.

waynecoSI

Ok, I saw that one section and put some honda bond in it.

Will it be fine that i filled that one section up with it and leveled it with the head or does it need to actually touch the headgasket? I wasn't sure if it had to touch the HG or just needed to be flush with the head.

InvaderTrax

So assembly is going well, but I've hit a snag. The F22A1 water pipe isn't quite working out. Whenever I bolt the thermostat housing on, it acts like it's almost too long. It spaces it 1cm from the manifold, and when I bolt it down, it squishes the o ring out the bottom, and is even bending the little tab at the other end that keeps it from going into the water pump impeller. Anyone had this issue before?

*edit* I figured it out. The mounting flange on my junkyard water pipe was slightly bent. When I put the bolt in it, it messed up the angle at the end and put pressure in all the wrong places. Unbolted it, twisted it with my hand, mounted the thermostat housing, then bent the flange back to where it should be and now it's all set. For reference, I'm using K20A3 pistons. I have them turned backwards because of the offset. I did not enlarge the valve reliefs. With my Crower stage 1 cam I have clearance at -2 degrees on the intake, but it's close. I'm not gonna risk going past that. The H23 made it's best power -2 intake, +2 exhaust, so I'm gonna run it like that for the time being. Also the timing belt tensioner is maxed out, and the brand new Honda belt is decently tight. However, since it'll gain slack pretty quickly, I might notch the piece on the end so it'll tilt just a little more

PirateMcFred

Glad you figured it out. I was out over the weekend and couldn't reply.

What compression do you think you're running? My SWAG is about 10.5:1. The last Crower 1 graph I remember seeing was SUB-0 H23 from back in the day. He was on stock compression though on the H23A1 and was spraying. I don't remember his numbers being very good but they weren't bad. Do you mind sharing your dynagraph? I'd like to see the difference if it's alright.

The clearance sounds tight if you have the intake cam retarded. :eek:

-P

InvaderTrax

Whenever I hit the dyno I'll certainly post it up, but I probably won't be in the near future. I'm gonna use the stock P14 for now. Just gonna run 93 (no stupid 91 around here :D) and keep the ignition timing conservative. Also still got the knock sensor for the time being. According to ZealAutoWerks CR should be 11:1

This was some time ago, on a Mustang dyno. 4th gear, 215/45/17's, and about 180k miles. Dynojet should have been about 160whp/160wtq

PirateMcFred

Yeow, that looks rich. Not bad for the power though untuned. Thanks for posting up.

InvaderTrax

I'm not sure how accurate their wideband was. I've always seen 27-32mpg and never and clouds of smoke (although a little build up on the bumper sometimes)

SLOWLYcruisin

this is a very good write up.. im currently doing an h23a1 non vtec head swap onto my f22b2 in a 97 honda accord..

theres a couple of questions i have ... when i look at all these forums i dont usually see stuff about wiring.. so i tried using my stock wiring..

do i change my wiring harness to the h23a1??

if so should i just go odb1??

because i been doing my research and found out that my car is odb2 and i was trying to piece everything together from a 96 odb2 prelude si... but i cant seem to find the ecu or the distributor.. what would you do in the situation like this?

cause i have to think about the sensors that arent in an odb1 dizzy.. like the sensor on the lower timing gear.. etx

InvaderTrax

It's a bit of a tricky situation. Normally it would be easier to keep the car OBD2 and get the proper parts, but in your case you might want to convert. Since the OBD2 H23 was only around for a year, it's pretty rare

SLOWLYcruisin

thank you for your imput.. i was thinking about converting but what i was looking at is that my distributor wiring plugs for the h23a1 dizzy dont match up to my wiring harness because what ive found to convert is to rewire my distributor getting a new odb1 ecu and the odb2 to odb1 conversion harness (please correct me if im wrong).. so thats why i ask if converting to odb1 would work if i end up using tha same ports ...

do you think it would be easier if i got like a 94 accord wiring harness instead of my 97? would the plugs match?

i was also thinking if i would drop a h22 head on my f22b2 like the prelittlelude .. but that required a h22a1 head .. and most of those i believe are odb1 too so maybe dropping a h22a4 head from a later year maybe?

InvaderTrax

Finished up the install today. Primed the oil pump and it started right up. Sounds good, holds oil pressure. Issue right now is that it won't go into any gear except 3rd. I had an LSD installed by the dealer, so I dropped in and they're gonna check it out Monday.

InvaderTrax

Turns out the selector was misaligned. Dealer R&R'd for free and now it shifts fine. Running pretty stout so far. I chickened out and I'm running -1 degree intake, +2 exhaust with stock ignition timing. Only issue is I didn't seal the blind oil hole well enough, and it has some visible seepage. I've got a can of Ultra Flange, which is gas charged. Might try and stick the tube in the hole and plug it with some more sealer. Also the OBX LSD is a lot of fun. The car is a lot more point and shoot, even in rain. I might sign up for the HPDE at IA this summer. Should be fun

InvaderTrax

I removed the alternator so I could fit my hand in, then worked a glob of Hondabond into the hole. Hasn't leaked yet. 600 miles on the engine so far, 400 of which was the drive too and from Atlanta for IA. Runs good, no visible smoke and still making good power. I did notice some build up on the muffler tip. Holding a steady 32mpg. The old H23 had a hard time getting close to that

InvaderTrax

900 miles on it now. Before assembly, I checked to make sure the head and block were flat, which they were, but not freshly machined flat. Because of that, it has developed a tiny oil seep at the transmission side. Thusly, copper spray is now a staple of any future build, instead of just when I reuse a gasket, or use an old style composite gasket. After the inspection, I did a compression test. First result was 0. After borrowing another gauge off the air compressor, the results were:

#1-210
#2-215
#3-215
#4-200

Dunno exactly how accurate the compressor gauge is, but they all seem reasonable to me. All the plugs looked good and it doesn't smoke or missfire or anything odd. With the stage 1 cam, it pulls well right up to 6500 RPM, but power drops off very quickly after that. I had planned for a max of 7000 RPM, so this is right where it should be. Next will be a tune and a better set of motor mounts. I tried the DIY urethane fill to delete the already broken front mount, and there's still a lot of movement

vtexas936

i really need some help. this is my first g series i have had to deal with. normally a b series guy but it was time for something new. i picked up a 97 integra with a g22. consisting of a f22b2 block and h23 head. its got a pretty bad oil leak and previous owner said its the head gasket. does anyone have the same set up because i wanna know what head gasket is the best to buy? or anyone have any info?

cejaslocas

I did and still have my G22 (H22+F22B2) and even tho they say the H22 headgasket was gonna be fine, it started leaking in the front right corner kind off where the power steering bracket is, if your looking from the front of the vehicle. So I swapped it for a F23A1 and sprayed the **** out of the head and block with that copper spray. Problem solved so far and car still is alive and kicking. Good luck!!