NA v.s. Boost
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NA v.s. Boost
i know all my basics but putting it all together and guessing the HP without a dyno on hand is tough and rather get accuate numbers.
if i went NA, i would do all the bolt on's (AEM true cold air, DC sport headers, no catback, full msd {ignition, cap, and retard}.)
i would also do as high compression as possible and from my research for the H22a jspec motor im looking at 12:5:1, and i would highly tune and change the ems, with a reflash of hondata, skunk2 or full ems with the aem system. anything else to add onto the NA catagory?
i would do this because i had my GSR full NA and had done all of this previously...
if i were to go boost, which i dont know too much about.... too high of boost could blow a piston, lower the compr2ession ratio in the motor the better it will run and high boost i can supply.... but on stock internals would you say a safe 7 to 9 lbs on stock internals on a h22a motor be fine. i have people saying no more than 5... and to me thats not even worth getting a turbo....
what would be the best approach for NA and best approach for Boosting
if i went NA, i would do all the bolt on's (AEM true cold air, DC sport headers, no catback, full msd {ignition, cap, and retard}.)
i would also do as high compression as possible and from my research for the H22a jspec motor im looking at 12:5:1, and i would highly tune and change the ems, with a reflash of hondata, skunk2 or full ems with the aem system. anything else to add onto the NA catagory?
i would do this because i had my GSR full NA and had done all of this previously...
if i were to go boost, which i dont know too much about.... too high of boost could blow a piston, lower the compr2ession ratio in the motor the better it will run and high boost i can supply.... but on stock internals would you say a safe 7 to 9 lbs on stock internals on a h22a motor be fine. i have people saying no more than 5... and to me thats not even worth getting a turbo....
what would be the best approach for NA and best approach for Boosting
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: NA v.s. Boost (Jdm BB6)
The only way boosting an H22a is worth it is fi you go all out and rebuild the whole thing.
For the NA route
-cams bumping up to JDM type S would be okay. A set of JUN cams would be very nice. Resleeving the block and getting some forged 11:5:1 or 12:1 pistons would be good. But unless you are going straight track use DO NOT get 12:5:1 for street.
-New injectors is a must with a good NA application.
-RMF header - SMSP header. You must get a good quallity header. Either of those are great.
-A full exhaust system. All mass produced catbacks pull about the same amount of HP. SO get what you like and a highflow cat.
-Get a great tune.
-Weight reduction is helpful on ludes as well.
Throughout studying NA applications for h22a If you dont use the highest quallity parts H22a will not make much power. I have seen a list of 20 mods of ok quallity stuff barely make 200whp. Then on the other hand about 5 mods that where very high quallity and it make 200whp+.
For the NA route
-cams bumping up to JDM type S would be okay. A set of JUN cams would be very nice. Resleeving the block and getting some forged 11:5:1 or 12:1 pistons would be good. But unless you are going straight track use DO NOT get 12:5:1 for street.
-New injectors is a must with a good NA application.
-RMF header - SMSP header. You must get a good quallity header. Either of those are great.
-A full exhaust system. All mass produced catbacks pull about the same amount of HP. SO get what you like and a highflow cat.
-Get a great tune.
-Weight reduction is helpful on ludes as well.
Throughout studying NA applications for h22a If you dont use the highest quallity parts H22a will not make much power. I have seen a list of 20 mods of ok quallity stuff barely make 200whp. Then on the other hand about 5 mods that where very high quallity and it make 200whp+.
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Re: NA v.s. Boost (roller3804)
if you want more bang for your buck then you should boost it. you can spend a ton of money in a N/A and still have a slow car with 220whp. you can make more power than that with the stock block running low boost. it may not be as reliable, but if you want to go fast, then you have to make some sacrifices.
Boosting big will require resleeving the block, forged pistons, rods, turbo stuff, fuel upgrades, 2.5-3" exhaust, standalone ecu, tuning, and a lot of money.
i wouldn't even waste my time on N/A, because it still costs a ton, but it's still slow. whatever you prefer.......but always remember----"Boost is Better"!
Boosting big will require resleeving the block, forged pistons, rods, turbo stuff, fuel upgrades, 2.5-3" exhaust, standalone ecu, tuning, and a lot of money.
i wouldn't even waste my time on N/A, because it still costs a ton, but it's still slow. whatever you prefer.......but always remember----"Boost is Better"!
#4
Re: NA v.s. Boost (Jdm BB6)
You can also look at Mahle pistons, you wouldn't have to resleeve your block to run those forged pistons.. you could either go high comp or lower your comp to like 9.5-1 for boost. That way if you boost you wouldn't have to worry about your weak stock ringland busting. I think some peeps are running 15lbs of boost successfully with the Mahles.
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