My crazy "no cranking" dilemma
#1
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My crazy "no cranking" dilemma
Ok so, a few of you know i went out to the track to concur 13's. Well the track was in perfect condition for me to do so. I drove 2 hours to get one run in, then a nightfull of bullshit.
First run:
first time doing a 2nd gear burnout. Tires were VERY sticky. I launched like i did at the last track, but this time it bogged. Just goes to show how much of difference there is between 2nd gear and 1st gear burnouts. Anyway, ran a 14.3 @96 with a 2.0 60'.
2nd run:
raised the 2-step from 7800 to 8200. Did the 2nd gear burnout again. Launch was great, felt really powerful. Carried it to 8500 on the tach then shifted into 2nd. Immediately, the engine shuts down and there is no response. I rolled all the way down the track (dunno how i managed to get all the way down and off the track.....)
I get off the track and try to restart the engine thinking it was something really minor. Well i get no response from the engine from turning the key over. All the normal dash lights are there, the fuel pump works and the cel comes on like normal and goes away after the fuel pump is primed.
Pushed the car to the pits and just started to brainstorm. I called Natalie who believed my problem could be the crank angle sensor. Only problem is that the car should still try and turn over even if that is broken....plus i didnt have any CEL's so i ruled that out. Called Anthony (drunk ***) and gave me a few ideas about the alternator and distributor. Checked all that and everything was fine.
We attempted jumping the starter to see if we could manually start the engine. It would turn over but not start, so we limited it down to no spark. Fuel....but no spark.
Had the car towed to a friends house thanks to Alltel Roadside assistance. Girlfriend drove 2 hours to come pick me up. Meanwhile it sits in a city 2 hours from me. I gotta find someone with a truck so i can rent uhaul trailer and get this bitch back home so i can fix the damn thing.
Just a note for those of you who want to drag race their DD, have backup plans....or a trailer
and no anthony, i didnt blow the welds on my intake....***
First run:
first time doing a 2nd gear burnout. Tires were VERY sticky. I launched like i did at the last track, but this time it bogged. Just goes to show how much of difference there is between 2nd gear and 1st gear burnouts. Anyway, ran a 14.3 @96 with a 2.0 60'.
2nd run:
raised the 2-step from 7800 to 8200. Did the 2nd gear burnout again. Launch was great, felt really powerful. Carried it to 8500 on the tach then shifted into 2nd. Immediately, the engine shuts down and there is no response. I rolled all the way down the track (dunno how i managed to get all the way down and off the track.....)
I get off the track and try to restart the engine thinking it was something really minor. Well i get no response from the engine from turning the key over. All the normal dash lights are there, the fuel pump works and the cel comes on like normal and goes away after the fuel pump is primed.
Pushed the car to the pits and just started to brainstorm. I called Natalie who believed my problem could be the crank angle sensor. Only problem is that the car should still try and turn over even if that is broken....plus i didnt have any CEL's so i ruled that out. Called Anthony (drunk ***) and gave me a few ideas about the alternator and distributor. Checked all that and everything was fine.
We attempted jumping the starter to see if we could manually start the engine. It would turn over but not start, so we limited it down to no spark. Fuel....but no spark.
Had the car towed to a friends house thanks to Alltel Roadside assistance. Girlfriend drove 2 hours to come pick me up. Meanwhile it sits in a city 2 hours from me. I gotta find someone with a truck so i can rent uhaul trailer and get this bitch back home so i can fix the damn thing.
Just a note for those of you who want to drag race their DD, have backup plans....or a trailer
and no anthony, i didnt blow the welds on my intake....***
#3
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Re: My crazy "no cranking" dilemma (98vtec)
damn blake.... . you better get that figured out quick like. you are sure that you didnt blow the engine somehow?
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Re: My crazy "no cranking" dilemma (bluedlude)
I still vote main relay. Also take a look at some of the wiring near the shifter at the tranny, maybe something got snagged up there.
#5
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Re: My crazy "no cranking" dilemma (Rosko)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I still vote main relay. Also take a look at some of the wiring near the shifter at the tranny, maybe something got snagged up there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
For real, if it happened right after a 1-2 shift on sticky tires, my first thought would be a loose wire somewhere.
I guess it's 'good' that you have fuel... Maybe take a look inside the dizzy, in case something came loose at high RPM.
Best bet would be to bring a spare Prelude to start swapping parts.
Good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
For real, if it happened right after a 1-2 shift on sticky tires, my first thought would be a loose wire somewhere.
I guess it's 'good' that you have fuel... Maybe take a look inside the dizzy, in case something came loose at high RPM.
Best bet would be to bring a spare Prelude to start swapping parts.
Good luck
#6
Nope, blake it looks like you have the same problem I did.
I believe it is the coil. Thats what has gone wrong with my car twice now....
Let me be clear on this, the starter is turning it over, but she wont fire up, if so, I vote coil.
Take the coil out, and get your ohmmeter handy.
Test resistance between the two inputs, it should be between .6 and .8 ohms.
Now test resistance between the positive input and the coil output, it should be more than 13k ohms, If I remember right, the spec is 13k-19k. if it is any less, the coil is bad, my two fried coils read about 10-12k ohms....
I believe it is the coil. Thats what has gone wrong with my car twice now....
Let me be clear on this, the starter is turning it over, but she wont fire up, if so, I vote coil.
Take the coil out, and get your ohmmeter handy.
Test resistance between the two inputs, it should be between .6 and .8 ohms.
Now test resistance between the positive input and the coil output, it should be more than 13k ohms, If I remember right, the spec is 13k-19k. if it is any less, the coil is bad, my two fried coils read about 10-12k ohms....
#7
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Re: (mgags7)
i already swapped another coil onto it and that didnt fix the problem. The ignition key would still try and start the car even if the coil was busted.
It really sucks that now i have to find a way back down there. I'm gonna try to have the car towed to a shop so they can take a gander at it. Something between the key and starter is keeping the car from getting spark.
It really sucks that now i have to find a way back down there. I'm gonna try to have the car towed to a shop so they can take a gander at it. Something between the key and starter is keeping the car from getting spark.
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#9
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Re: (bluedlude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>
wouldnt i get a check engine light?
well, the car is getting towed to Pepboys (yea i know, but i dont trust towing it to a shop i dont know) to get electrical diagnostics ran on it.
wouldnt i get a check engine light?
well, the car is getting towed to Pepboys (yea i know, but i dont trust towing it to a shop i dont know) to get electrical diagnostics ran on it.
#10
that screams main relay to me then.....I thought it was just that the car was turning over but not getting spark, if its not turning over at all its the main relay.
I would say ignition switch but it seems as if all your electronics turn on when you switch the car on, right?
Why don't you test for +12v at the distributor with the keys on II. I can help you figure this out you don't have to pay for pepboys to do it.
I would say ignition switch but it seems as if all your electronics turn on when you switch the car on, right?
Why don't you test for +12v at the distributor with the keys on II. I can help you figure this out you don't have to pay for pepboys to do it.
#11
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Re: (mgags7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that screams main relay to me then.....I thought it was just that the car was turning over but not getting spark, if its not turning over at all its the main relay.
I would say ignition switch but it seems as if all your electronics turn on when you switch the car on, right?
Why don't you test for +12v at the distributor with the keys on II. I can help you figure this out you don't have to pay for pepboys to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you gotta remember that i am not there!
I'm two hours away with no way to get to my baby
I would say ignition switch but it seems as if all your electronics turn on when you switch the car on, right?
Why don't you test for +12v at the distributor with the keys on II. I can help you figure this out you don't have to pay for pepboys to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you gotta remember that i am not there!
I'm two hours away with no way to get to my baby
#15
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Re: (98vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nope, towed to my friends apartment
</TD></TR></TABLE>
expletive are those both broken down? lol
ludes
</TD></TR></TABLE>
expletive are those both broken down? lol
ludes
#16
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Re: (Rosko)
ignition switch, had they same problem on my 98 SH would just die on me and took long time to start, and sometimes wouldnt even start, i changed the ignition switch and it starts and doesnt die anymore
#17
is the engine cranking at all? or nothing
if its doing absolutely nothing, im putting my money on the 1 single wire thats usually plugged into the starter.
i bet it just came loose
edit nvm, i didnt read ur whole post... i bet its the ignition switch
did you ever get the recall done?
if its doing absolutely nothing, im putting my money on the 1 single wire thats usually plugged into the starter.
i bet it just came loose
edit nvm, i didnt read ur whole post... i bet its the ignition switch
did you ever get the recall done?
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Re: (98vtec)
thats prolly because your ecu isn't recieving the signal that its trying to start. I forget exactly how its wired stock, but when you turn the key to start it sends a signal to the starter AND to the ecu, so just jumping the starter isn't gonna start it unless its wired in series with the other wire.
it has to be something inline with the ignition switch and or main relay.
it has to be something inline with the ignition switch and or main relay.
#20
Re: (98vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it will try and turn over if i jump the starter. Nothing happens with the ignition key. </TD></TR></TABLE>
did you ever do the ignition recall? thats probably like 100% what your problem is..
its just a 10 dollar part, that requires like 3 screws to replaced in less then an hr.
did you ever do the ignition recall? thats probably like 100% what your problem is..
its just a 10 dollar part, that requires like 3 screws to replaced in less then an hr.
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Re: (bluedlude)
Ya didnt you replace your starter a year ago or somethin? Blake all you need is a $10 dvom that you can leave in your car
#25
Re: (98vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bad starter.
the ******* starter. LAME!</TD></TR></TABLE>
that doesn't explain why your car just shut off at 8000rpm
the ******* starter. LAME!</TD></TR></TABLE>
that doesn't explain why your car just shut off at 8000rpm