my 97+ prelude wont start cold?
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my 97+ prelude wont start cold?
i have a 1997 type sh and it has a little problem starting when it's cold, 50*f or less. i've changed my distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil 2 times, control module 2 times, ect, and it isnt pulling a code. I know it's a ignition problem im just having a hard time locating it. So if there is anyone who has an idea please reply.
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Re: my 97+ prelude wont start cold? (vinuneuro)
yeah. Most people don't know but your battery should get replace once every 2-3 years sometimes (depending on battery) Its 120$ or so dollars but no matter what happens it should still improve starting somewhat. It could be a multitude of other things in the starter circuit
Oh to help I'm told that if the cranking is slow and weak its probably the battery or alternator. So maybe listen to the cranking.
Oh to help I'm told that if the cranking is slow and weak its probably the battery or alternator. So maybe listen to the cranking.
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Re: my 97+ prelude wont start cold? (mattsnooz)
Idk if its different in different parts of the country due to climate. But here in SE pa batteries generally last 5 years anymore. Or they should. Its not unheard of however for them to go alot sooner.
If the problem is only happening when its cold out. I would first check the battery and alternator. Othewise it may be a mixture problem. It is harder to start a cold engine. The fuel, intake manifold and cylinder are all cold. When you first start the car it will enrich the mixture. Fuel will condense in the intake manifold and on the cylinder walls and fall out of suspension. Basically your throwing a **** load of fuel at the engine and hoping it burns some, enough to start the engine. This is why cars have higher emissions when cold. All the fuel that puddles in the IM and on the cylinder walls is just pushed right out the exhaust. This is also the reason when you do obd1 emissions tests ( low load dyno test with sniffer here in phila suburbs) the car must be warm. The car will at this point be in open loop running on predetermined fuel maps. And doesnt even look at the o2 sensor until the engine goes into closed loop.
If the problem is only happening when its cold out. I would first check the battery and alternator. Othewise it may be a mixture problem. It is harder to start a cold engine. The fuel, intake manifold and cylinder are all cold. When you first start the car it will enrich the mixture. Fuel will condense in the intake manifold and on the cylinder walls and fall out of suspension. Basically your throwing a **** load of fuel at the engine and hoping it burns some, enough to start the engine. This is why cars have higher emissions when cold. All the fuel that puddles in the IM and on the cylinder walls is just pushed right out the exhaust. This is also the reason when you do obd1 emissions tests ( low load dyno test with sniffer here in phila suburbs) the car must be warm. The car will at this point be in open loop running on predetermined fuel maps. And doesnt even look at the o2 sensor until the engine goes into closed loop.
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i changed the battery because i thought that was the problem too but it wasn't.... and i know it isn't a fuel problem because i checked for spark and there wasn't but when it gets warm.... BAM it starts and everything is fine.. and there is no CEL...
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Re: (dustin_bb6)
try re-seating your rotor and dis cap. really to me sounds like some kind of electical problem... did you make sure that you set your spark plugs to the correct distance?
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