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Hey guys after having my prelude of a little over 6 years now ive decided to finally make a thread :D
Current engine is a 93 h22a closed deck block with a 97 type s head, arp head studs. Aem fuel rail, ported oem intake with a skunk2 alpha r 70mm throttle body. Obd1 440 injectors Have converted the sh to base when my type s motor decided it didn't like having a rod in cylinder 1.
Far as chassis goes, Im running tein advanced z coilovers, konieg hypergram 17x8 +45 wheels with 225/45/17. Have every strut bar they made for the car (upper and lower both front and rear). Has a full exhaust, 1320 headers, test pipe to an invidia q300 cat back.
Currently im working on turboing her. Turbo parts so far: garret gt30 ball bearing turbo, greddy log manifold, tial wastegate, hks blow off valve, hondata s300v2, rc 750cc injectors, oil cooler with all an lines, massive intercooler i probably wont use, intercooler piping, and braided feed and drain for the turbo. Current list of things to get is aem wideband, obd2b to obd1 conversion harness, and a walburo 250 pump. Will post more pics of the kit as i get closer to slapping it on the car but if anyone wants to point out something im missing or recommends please do.
Looks very promising. especially with the GT30R family turbo with an internal wastegate. It reminds me of the 2-4 BB6 Chassis turbos I've worked on, a few times
Yeah its starting to come together. Always working around a budget. Found out I somehow shattered the mounting points on the transmission casing where the rear engine mount connects. Soooo picking up a lsd trans this weekend. As well as a competition clutch stage 4 clutch. Will take pics if the deal goes through. Cant wait to get rid of the damn 4-2-1 headers. Always have a leak in the 4-2 joint. Just doing maintenance and buying more parts.
Also picked up a lsd f20b transmission and an competition clutch stage 4 clutch. Already pulled the stock transmission just waiting on the clutch to come in before I slap the lsd transmission in.
After looking at the fitment in the engine bay for a while its looking like the easiest thing to do would be to delete ac, run a half radiator. clears up alot of room and makes the intercooler piping runs so much easier and clean. Will probably relocate battery and move the fuse box inside the cabin as well. Any one have tips for removing ac and keeping the heater stuff intact? Im in ny and still need heat/defroster lol
My advice would be to keep a/c if the system is working properly. Removing it is a short sighted decision and if you drive the car at all during the summer you will eventually regret it. It's easy to keep a full sized radiator and all with that manifold you have. I have the same log manifold and there's plenty of room to work with. The dual core full size radiator you have is way better than any half core you will put in there. I know this from experience. I currently have a similar all aluminum dual core and it cools way better than a triple core half radiator I had previously. If you do decide to remove a/c, you don't need to do anything with the heater stuff. It's completely separate.
If you go moving the fusebox and battery, make sure you use quality thick gauge wire or else you will have problems. Wouldn't hurt to add a few extra grounds either.
Awesome thanks for the input guys. Im trying to keep the ac but its right in the way of the downpipe. Ill see what my exhaust guy says this weekend. Got the lsd and comp stage 4 clutch in. Boy it that a step up from a stock clutch and open dif. Buying the treadstone intercooler piping kit, gauges, and a smaller intercooler today. Should have pretty much everything ready to go on the car by next weekend. Ill try to get a picture of the ac line thats making me worried later tonight.
It's very easy to fab up an A/C compatible downpipe with that turbo manifold. If you're going with a 2.5" downpipe(which is more than enough for a stock engine) you can just use a sharp mandrel bend from Jegs or Summit and clear the compressor easily. Won't even need any pie cuts. 3" is a little more complicated but still doable. If your exhaust guy tells you he can't do it, find another one because he probably just doesn't want to.
You will definitely need to heat wrap the downpipe and use some heat reflective tape on the A/C lines. The more heat you can keep away from the A/C components, the better they will work.
Haha Hey Prudz Lude, Yes I still do. I daily drove it all of 2016 - 1st qtr of 2017. With no AC not fun during summer. But fun at night with no cars on the road. A different manifold setup has been in the back of my mind.. Maybe when I can find some time.
06-15-2019, 07:23 AM
mchefs turbo 01 sh thread
