Accordian47

Just lowered my 5th gen, thought i'd share some info.

Camber Changes/Specs:
-Factory Spec. is 0 Degrees
-@ a 1.5" Drop in Ride Height Front and Rear:
Front camber will change ~1 degree in the negative direction.
Rear camber will change ~1.5 degrees in the negative direction.
I don't know how many degrees toe is effected when lowering, it'd be good to know.

There is no point in having 1-1.5 degrees of negative camber on your car, it just causes less contact patch and premature tire wear.
It makes most sense to set it back to factory.
Be careful with what kits and websites you go through, I had to return 2 sets due to the website having the wrong vehicle fitment information.
Also, most kits are sold per wheel, so you will need four (I didn't know this at the time and saw "Rear-Pair" and assumed it would do both rear wheels but waited a week for them to show up just to find I needed a whole nother set)
Here is what I went with:
Rear:
Ingalls 35730 (+1-1/4° to +3° Camber Adjustment)
These are a set of (2) sliding, adjustable, rear upper control arm mounts, good for one rear wheel. Kinda tough to get dialed in due to the fact that you must raise and lower the vehicle to adjust but to be expected and not a big deal. Also being that there are 2 separate mounts for one arm/wheel, caster can be effected and ultimately toe. I bought mine from SummitRacing for like $65 a set.
Front:
SPC Performance 67155 (-1° to +1.5° Camber Adjustment)
These are a single sliding, adjustable, front upper control arm ball joint. You'll need 1 per front wheel. High quality silicone rubber boot and ball joint, zinc coated steel hardware, you gotta press out your original front upper ball joint and these will bolt on. You gotta run OEM upper arms. You only lose approximately a 1/4" of vertical travel due to the adjustment lock stud and lock nut. I bought a pair of these for about $80 a piece from SummitRacing.com.

I'm running a 215/45R-17 and live in VT so the roads are horrible. I do bottom out pretty hard upfront alot. Its hard to say if its upper a-arm to shock tower interference or just the tire hitting the wheel well but its manageable. I don't rub tire while turning usually and some weird angles/transitions I will hear tire rubbage. I need stiffer springs and some stiffer shocks or at least replacements to really see how well I can avoid bottoming out. I'm not running bump stops and I'm on cut factory springs/factory shocks.

TimiK

Also pay attention when buying camber kits for 5th gen - SH camber kits are slight different (I got by mistake SH kit for my base and they have to mod it little bit to get it fit)