bb6h22a

My write up is right here.

let me know what you think.

h

aklucsarits

Wow, that's really good! It should come in handy. The pics are great! Excellent work!

Andrew

DsITR

damn good right up mang....so you got your clutch for only 96.50??

Andrew there is a group buy on those flywheels right now for our motors 264 shipped to your door..

bb6h22a

Yup, 96.50! And, thats an everyday price, no groupbuy, no hook-ups, nothing. Walk in, and pay. And, that included t/o bearing, clutch asembly, and pressure plate! I have the shop cited in my write up.

Thank you both for the compliments, I hope you find the write up helpful.

Regards.

Now, can someone please tell me what the flow rate is on a '99 h22 fuel pump?

DsITR

you don't happen to have a part # w/that 96.50 clutch do you? I'm trying to find it through another vendor

TIA

bb6h22a

...here. listed under '93-'00 2.2L DOHC.


[Modified by bb6h22a, 12:39 PM 12/24/2002]

dvp95

Hey I just got my fidanza flywheel for my h22a, and it has 2 gashes (timing marks) on the metal to the side of the teeth. Why are there 2 marks? Also, I dont plan on doing this until the spring, but when I do replace my clutch and flywheel, do I have to redo my timing belt? I hope its just a direct replacement. Thanks

bb6h22a

It is a direct replacement. Here, read this write up. It details my clutch job on my h22.

dvp95

Damn that was a good DIY writeup!

Do you need to do anything with the timing marks? From my understanding, the marks are only used when you are replacing the timing belts. So theoretically, when you change the flywheel you dont need to do anything with the timing marks, but it only makes it easier in the future when you change the belts. Correct? How do you know if you have it lined up correctly without knowing the placement of the crank? Thanks

Daemione

The flywheel & clutch are on the opposite side of the engine from the timing belt. They don't need to be installed in any particular alignment.


[Modified by Daemione, 1:19 PM 12/26/2002]

dvp95

Yeah I know that, so I dont need to line up anything? Should I line up the marks with the TDC camshafts? What are the 2 marks for?

kidaniel

one other disadvantage is that if you or going up a hill like the ones in NC the rpms will just drop...and because it's a four-cylinder(no torque )..flat fours have more torque though (WRX!)


[Modified by kidaniel, 12:19 PM 12/26/2002]

SPR876-B18C1

so skimming a stock integra flywheel which is about 19lbs to 15lbs shouldnt cause much problems but still provide the advantage of reving faster ?? right ??

92PurpleLude

I'm going to guess you are talking about the USDM H23 non-VTEC, and because of the increased torque in the low rev range the power should be more manageable, and is easily accounted for with double clutching. I just purchased an Exedy stage one clutch, ACT StreetLite 12.9lb flywheel, stealership fasteners, and seals as well as a few odds and ends that I'll be installing it tomorrow in my H23 and I'll let you how great of an upgrade it is.

92PurpleLude

No clatter, chatter, or slippage, with even power distribution throughout clutch release. RPM drop between shifting is easy to get used to, and the flywheel weight is still enough for daily driving. The torque is freed up even more on the low end, and gets an incredible second wind @4000 @max torque. Wouldn't want a H23 any other way

Sparksman

I dont think anyone on this thread has fully answered the question, I found this thread. So i know others have and will, so id like to try and summarise and explain the benefits of a lighten flywheel.

A oem h22a/A1/A4 flywheels are 22lbs. Im sure the h23 and so on is too.

My personal build im installing a 8lb flywheel and balance shaft kit. 22-8=14lbs less 1 balance shaft= 3lbs, x2=6lbs. 14lbs+6lbs.=20lbs of less rotating mass of my crank. Which reving quicker isnt the only benefit from a lighter flywheel, for every 1 pound off your crank its like 2 or 3 pounds equivalent of curb weight. So that 20lbs off my crank is the same as 40-50lbs worth of interior weigth reduction. You get the quick throttle response along with 20lbs of actual meterial, and another 20lbs worth of weight reduction performance. If that makes sence lol. Theres more pro's then cons'

For Drag Racing----

The old muscle car era they would put heavier flywheels on to help get the super heavy cars from a dead stand still to moving without bogging down the engine. Physics tell us an object in motion wants to stay in motion, and a object not moving wants to remain still. The Inertia from the weight of the flywheel helps the car launch from a stand still a little bit faster.

Once the car is in motion, and the inertia has been spent. The heavy flywheel immediately becomes a burden to the engine. It takes longer for the engine to wind up, and in turn wind out the gear ratio which equals slower times. A lighter flywheel would mean a less aggressive launch, but you would get through your gears quicker. The amount of time increase or decrease really comes down to drivers ability at that point. The heavier flywheel will have you off the line, but you would run him down, if they were identical set ups on the same cars.

AutoCross----

With out a doubt a lighter flywheel is the better option all around. Being lighter it allows you to be able to rev alot quicker, make your engine feel more peppy. You will accelerate quicker because of less weight bogging your crank every revolution. When you shift/press in the clutch the rpm's will drop a bit faster. You should try to make shifts as quick and crisp as possible.

A short shifter would be a good investment, as well as not completely taking your foot off the gas. This is called "rev matching" which is a more experienced technique. If you autocross with the tight repetitive corners, being able to wind up into the power band faster is key. Most autocross cars lower there vtec engagement point lower so you dont drop out of at the wrong time.

Town Driving---

Your throttle will be alot more touchy, and kinda jumpy before you get used to the new throttle response. On the free way is where you will notice the biggest difference. A light weight flywheel isnt good from a dead stop, but is amazing at rolling starts. Without all the extra weight, your motor will make alot more use of the HP you already have. Once you get used to driving it, you wont have many issues. Theres a learning curve like any new set up, once you have driven enough you wont even notice. Its not as bad for your clutch as people say. A lighter flywheel has less opposing inertia to match clutch and flywheels speeds together, so theres less resistance, which means less wear in the long run.

Hope this helps clear up any confusion anyone has about lighter flywheels!