CheLude NY

i have a jdm h23a bluetop i purchased from japan star in albany and the head is stamped pde...i was writing because i have a rod knocking and i am looking to rebuild with oem parts...i wanted to know if jdm prelude type s pistons will fit in my h23a on the h23a rod without modification and if so what do i need to do to make it work....ive scoured the internet and forums but i cant find any reliable info....thanx in advance

Davi_Vtec

nice write up...

Immortal-Prelude

Can anyone else enlighten me about my problem of whether or not it's an blue top h23a or non vtec h23a, its on page 11

Blazin Si

I picked up my H23A VTEC motor this past week and I was talking to a guy who has done this swap already. He told me that I would need to use an Accord intake manifold for it to work properly? What is the issue with the stock H23A IM that makes it difficult to use in an Accord/CL chassis?

No one mentioned anything about it in this thread, so I'm thinking this isn't correct.

A Blue Lude

IACV, maybe some other things.

allenwop

i have an h23a in my 01 accord and had to switch the top half of the IM. the h23a has a 3wire iac and if your going obd1 you need one from a lude to use the 2 wire iac

Any one know what cap and rotor fit this motor?? i need to change it badly and i was wondering if theres a usdm motor that uses the same cap and rotor as this one

Blazin Si

Thanks for the info. Is the Accord IM more restrictive than the H23's? If it is, I'll try to look into some other options.

nus_dogg

Ain't the distributor cap the same as a P13 version? if so, a B16A2 cap should fit?

allenwop

well i was gonna try a cap from a h22 but this distributor is internal coil, and all the h22's ive seen were external coil but maybe ill try the b16 cap

gardj123

Bear with me, this is my first post on here. I've just recently installed my (PDE stamped) "Blue Top" in my 97 Prelude I also purchased from Japan Star and it runs great. The first one I got from em was P13 stamped and CAKED with sludge, so beware (not saying the stamping has anything to do with it)! They immediatly swapped motors & paid shipping with proof from a few pics, so I'm VERY happy with their service, just look in the valve cover first!
I have been following this thread for a little while & have learned a lot, and done a few things that I don't remember seeing here. I am a certified mechanic, but am not a Honda expert by any means, so I'm learning. Hopefully my experience can answer some questions for someone kinda new to this like me that is about to try it. In a nutshell this is what it took.
I kept mine OBD2 for my local emissions. I'll start at the bottom and work up.
I had to use the steel oil pan from the H23A because the alum. H22 pan didn't fit, duno where to get another one if something happens to it. And I didn't swap oil squirters to it, (not building anything extreme or racing, so not really worried). Wasn't quite sure exactly how to do it without having clearance problems.
Swapped oil pump from H22 with crank and balance shaft gears for the sensors from the original H22. Replaced all front seals, water pump, added front B/S retainer, converted to manual tensioner (for reliability) and T-belts. All H22 parts from Honda. I used the H22 distributor and coil too.
I was told by Japan Star that as far as the I/M goes I just have to swap the upper plenum... Not true, totally. I found that the H23 lower intake didn't have holes for the IATS, so instead of swapping the complete manifold assby. (since it was all bolted up and was plugging in my stock wiring harness) I drilled a center hole for the sensor where it was on the H22 manifold, drilled & tapped the screw holes and was done.
I also used the H23a throttle body cause, yes, it is quite bigger as has been posted.
One problem I did have is that the head has a port on the back which LOOKED like a coolant port that I almost tied in with the IAC hoses... IT'S NOT!! It's VACUUM!! Lol!
It all plugged in. Be carefull not to get the TPS and MAP sensors plugged in backwards, the plugs fit both, just like the CTS and the VTEC plugs mix.
I am using the stock computer (M/T, non SH car) and it runs great, lots of torque, and has no codes, so it will pass emissions as is. It's a blast to drive around town, power's right there when I want it. Definitely could use the VTEC to come in a bit sooner, I'll do something about that next, but when I'm really on it, I'm shifting around 7000 without any problems.
So, like I said earlier, hopefully my experience can help someone out, and make this swap easier, at least in a 5th gen Prelude. I don't think I've forgottem anything important, if I remember something else, I'll add it.

FunnyVictor86

anyone have the ecu pin-out diagram for the PCD-004 Euro R ECU?

732xghost

nice build gardj123. very informative right there.

gardj123

Thanks 732xghost, gotta add that I found out that the fuel pump sock was almost completely clogged with junk because this car sat for 5 years before I bought it and did the swap. I got the tank all cleaned out and replaced the sock and fuel filter. Now VTEC really hits hard all the way to 7500 (fuel helps)! This engine is supposed to fall off at 6900 from what I've read, (and did before I found that) but I promise it's strong past that, at least this one is. Not sure if the PDE stamped one is really different or what? I'm even running stock exhaust. The only aftermarket thing on the car is a stupid cold air kit. Maybe my tach is off, I don't know, but I doubt it. If anyone knows the actual difference between a PDE and P13 stamping besides the cam tint/material I'd really like to know.

preludepower420

Yes

ED9man

What is the rod length and compression height for the H23a VTEC? Can you run type s pistons to bump the CR?

907civic

good info, i always wondered about the h23a

jacob4lester

youre gonna get your carpet dirty!!!!!!!!!!!!!

h22a_black

Ok I'm about to pull the trigger on this motor. I checked out a couple importers in the area and found two motors. One had P13 stamped on the head and one had HF2 stamped? I'm supposed to be looking with one that has PDE stamped on the head correct?

Is there anything else that I should be looking for on my motor? Thanks!

jah.tien

great, i got a p13 head, from what i gather here, is that it wont have the power of the pde, and i might as well have gotten a regular blacktop.

turbowagon94

gotta question, that from what i' ve read so far, has not been asked yet. would this motor be ok for mild, 7-10 pounds, of boost. i'm tradin my stock cd5 accord for a cb7 with an h23avtec motor in it. he bought the car from a guy but has had nothin but trouble. i'm gonna pull it out and put in my ce1 wagon. i've got an h22a right now but am kinda intriged with the h23a vtec motor. thanks in advance

jah.tien

u can boost n e thing with money and done rite.
no engine is n e more perceptible to awesome spoolin than n e other engine. its all bout build and tune..

if you are looking for an answer like
"yea, man, h22's LOVE boost, doit bro..."

then you going to get answers like
"dont doit, H's HATE boost, weak ringlands, and yadda yadda..."

as well...

you have money, boost it if you want, get a good tune..and call it a day..

turbowagon94

yeah i've heard the "don't boost a stock H, gotta build it" stuff already. i have an s300 and a couple dyno shops with in drivin distance, so i'll definately get it tuned. like i said i'm not goin ***** out on this car, it will be my daily. just want a little somethin to play with while i'm buildin my other H22 for my other wagon. thanks for the input. gonna get the car over this weekend and checkout the casting numbers to see which h23 it is.

Apex1972

well if you are in SC,I can only think of one place I would let tune the car. they will probably want to do the entire build too,which is a good thing. take a guess who?

turbowagon94

and who might that be?

Apex1972

http://www.av-engineered.com/site/