Eucalyptus lude

new password JDM intake on order, along with full AN fuel line conversion in order to keep the f20b manifold.

Apex1972

I have always wanted to get an F20B. I would not put it in a heavy 5th gen though. 92-95 hatch FTW. Put that thing in something light and boost the **** out of it. I always liked the idea of not having the FRM to deal with. Good luck with it and keep us up to date.

NirVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apex1972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have always wanted to get an F20B. I would not put it in a heavy 5th gen though. 92-95 hatch FTW. Put that thing in something light and boost the **** out of it. I always liked the idea of not having the FRM to deal with. Good luck with it and keep us up to date.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Friend of a friend did a US F22A(x) with Bisimoto F2D trans adaptor in an EF hatch!
Now we're talking!-----Plus Boost!
I just can't see the 2.0 liter in a 2600-2900lb Prelude.....
Doesn't the F20B come in the EDM/JDM/CDM 2.0 model?

Eucalyptus lude

your entitled to your oppinions, But i have picked this engine to best suite the cars overall design and use. Well see some times at VIR, limerock etc later on.

98vtec

is it the password whale *****?

NirVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eucalyptus lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your entitled to your oppinions, But i have picked this engine to best suite the cars overall design and use. Well see some times at VIR, limerock etc later on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good luck finding the TQ to yank out of the turns.....I make 156wtq and it still isn't enough......Your 2.0 is going to make alot alot less than that.....2.0's work great for RoadRacing!!!!!-------in a 2000lbs chassis!

Im not trying to be a hater.....it just seems like your build isn't well thought out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eucalyptus lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">new password JDM intake on order, along with full AN fuel line conversion in order to keep the f20b manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it the password whale *****?</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^This tells me youre willing to sacrifice power for looks.....I think that intake started making more power than the average CAI on a ~250whp B20....and it was power loss everywhere on near stock setups.....

We're trying to help......
Just because a motor is rare and expensive doesn't mean its worth it! See K20R! Cheap *** K24 FTW!


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n20h22bb2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the f20b is twice the motor the h22 is</TD></TR></TABLE>
Youre a crack baby.....not the drug.....the Butt.....
Prove it!

Eucalyptus lude

I would like to see the comparisons with that intake on near stock setups. and the f20b isnt very expensive or that rare. lol It just seems like a good choice for my setup. My prelude is weight reduced. and although it isnt 2000lbs my track days and my car are simply for enjoyment and driving skill practice! Im not entering any competitions or serious racing! Ill see how much HP and TQ it puts out soon enough! And im looking to go with ITB's in the near future. I assume the intake i bought would be beneficial to my response and not so much hp. although a decrease in Hp isnt what i had in mind either. So if you can def shed some light on this! thanks again

NirVTEC

Just use a CAI...
The thing with RR'ing a lighter car is you can throw it into turns faster and stay higher in your powerband.
My 2000lbs/127whp Civic would probably outlap my 2800lb/187whp DD Prelude.
I just don't see using this motor when JDM H22s can be had for ~$11-1200.

Eucalyptus lude

thanks for your concern, I am very familiar with Road racing. I RR my Z as well as my previous honda race car. I was going for my Scca liscence but crashed it soon before... Just making another fun FWD car for my enjoyment. Like i said i would like to devote this thread to my experience swapping it in a 98 prelude, not arguinig and bickering about what you think i know about RR.

NirVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eucalyptus lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for your concern, I am very familiar with Road racing. I RR my Z as well as my previous honda race car. I was going for my Scca liscence but crashed it soon before... Just making another fun FWD car for my enjoyment. Like i said i would like to devote this thread to my experience swapping it in a 98 prelude, not arguinig and bickering about what you think i know about RR.</TD></TR></TABLE>
let us know how that TQ feels coming out of a turn at 4500rpms.
Im just not seeing any advantages to doing this yet.....I am an avid RR'er and having a 2.0 just wouldn't cut it....Maybe Im spoiled after feeling the 3500-5000rpm TQ from the 2.5 liter N/A Impreza.

Eucalyptus lude

Definatly man! Ill hopefully have in car video etc! Ill just have to keep her reved! which brings me to my next topic. SETRAB oil cooler

alterdcreations

the f20b is a pretty strong engine.
you are asking a pretty simple question. the answer is in the faq.....search

also dont let anybody try to sway your choice.
bigger is better but it's your money

Eucalyptus lude

Ok heres the update!
-Installed clutch flywheel and transmision
-Converted TPS sensor from H22 to F20b
-Transfered IAC from H to F
-Transfered appropriate engine mounts.
-Installed power steering
-Welded in wideband 02 into b pipe
-Swapped h22 dizzy on F so now external coil

Here is where i need help. I tried to do the CKY CPS hack at the ecu found here
http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm
However i am missing pin c1 and c11 at the ecu pinouts.... As i said, i swapped over the F20b internal dizzy for my 98 preludes h22 dizzy, which is an external coil. So using my stock prelude dizzy what can i do to bypass the crank signal? I will also be running an obd2a-obd1 conversion harness with a po6W vtec conversion and chrome pro.. Thanks again!!

Eucalyptus lude

I purchased brand new oil pump for my F20b so i can run the tDc crank sensor. I also bought some new IM gaskets. The f20b will be going in on friday! pics and videos very soon!!!

vinuneuro

What oil pump do you use on a F20b? Any F- obd2 unit?

Eucalyptus lude

Well the stock f20b doesnt have the TDC sensor etc so i purchased an new OEM honda oil pump for a OBD2 h22. just like my prelude one. Im also going to be reving this engine out very high so a new oil pump is for good piece of mind! I am going to update you guys this weekend. I am also installing a setrab oil cooler and power steering cooler! once all is set ill start her up, tune her, and then off to the paint shop for some new things!!! BTW heres a pic of my car for now.

vinuneuro

I remember seeing your car for sale a while back. No go?

Eucalyptus lude

My best friend was selling it! Ive put a lot of blood and sweat into it over its life! and when he decided it needed to go i knew that no one would love it as much as i would.. even though i own to many other cars. Anyways so yup its mine and he helps me work on it! but we built his 500 hp mustang soon after he sold it to me soo hes definatly happy.

Eucalyptus lude

ok guys she runs! I opted not to install the new oil pump and just use my f20b's pump. So in order to get my TDC CKP sensors to work properly i had to run them from the dizzy.
So in retrospect heres what needs to be done and understand f20b into a 98 prelude IS NOT DIRECT BOLT IN! there were things that i found that have never been documented before and honestly was very VERY time consuming. Ill list them below.

1.Driver side engine mount on f20b is SMALLER than H22 mount. Swap them but note that you will only be left with one bolt on the timing cover.

2.F20b doesnt have TDC and CKP at the oil pump like the usdm obd2 H. SO you can either install a H pump with timing gears etc or do the Dizzy hack. So run a wire harness from the oil pumps harness up to the distributor; then follow next step.

3. The stock usdm H22 dizzy doesnt have TDC and CKP sensors, only the CYP sensor SO!!!!! we need to use the F20b obd2 dizzy(internal coil). Here is where i had to brute force learn everything!
you can either use the internal coil and then tap the three sensor wires and run a new TACH signal from inside, or you can convert to external coil and then connect the sensors.

HOWEVER in order to hook up the sensors correctly you need to take off your dizzy cap, remove the rotor, find the ICM and rewire every terminal on it to your stock H22 harness. You need to tap the right terminal for TACH signal which the f20b DOESNT HAVE(terminal is there but no wire is hooked up)! then you need to tap the three ingition coil wires,BLK/yell, green, yellow green, And also connect your 6 TDC, CKP and CYP sensors to the stock H22 harness(red,blue,white,black,yellow,green). So you have a total of 10 wires coming out of your dizzy as opposed to the stock 8.

This was VERY involved and another interesting thing that i found out was that the STOCK H22 service manual says that the Green in the dizzy should go to Green outside when indeed this isnt true. I forgot what color the two wires that needed to be crossed were but i have it written down on my service manual if anyone needs it. Two of the ICM terminals are indeed backwards and will not work if wired the way honda says it would.

4. Cannot use the entire stock F20b intake manifold! If you want to use the lower runners due to there smoother aluminum then you must remove the upper portion of the intake manifold and reuse your stock H manifold top. This way your iacv will work.

5. You cannot use the stock fuel line from the prelude filter to the F20b fuel rail. I used the m14x1.25(i think) fitting adapters to -6AN lines to run a new fuel line from the filter to the rail.(only about 10 inches)

6. I am still trying to use the F20b throttle body but its missing the FITV so i had idle surging problems. Still trying to figure this out!

7. You will be left with one extra water temperature sensor on the back coolant neck.


8.You will need to install your old EGR from your H manifold if you want it to work correctly.

9.You will need to extend your Vac lines from the purge soilenoid to reach both the EGR and the intake manifold.

The car runs a little rich, but note that it isnt tuned yet and has a AEM UEGO wideband in it. so ill be tuning it next weekend. Ive gone about half throttle on it and its unbelievably smooth! The response is absolutly insane. Im tired and bitter from this experience however this information is now on here for future swappers to use.

mgags7

OP: good job figuring it all out, I'm glad it works

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::NirVTEC:: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just use a CAI...
The thing with RR'ing a lighter car is you can throw it into turns faster and stay higher in your powerband.
My 2000lbs/127whp Civic would probably outlap my 2800lb/187whp DD Prelude.
I just don't see using this motor when JDM H22s can be had for ~$11-1200.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude, your civic would get absolutely smoked by a prelude around a track, what are you thinking?

98vtec

it would be nice for you to make an official thread for this and add some pictures of the work documenting the steps of process so i can throw it in the faq with the rest of the engine swaps

Good job getting this together. I'm interested to see how it performs compared to the h22a. I wish i understood advanced electrical bullshit more than i currently do.

mgags7

Blake this isn't as "advanced" as you might think it is, its just like connecting the dots, just with wires rather than a pencil.

definitely add this to the faq. I'll have a good bit of info on the same subject in a little bit.

98vtec

well i would rather start a new thread so all the CORRECT information is in the first post.

i'm not electrical dumb, its just some of the terminology/symbols used confuses me at times.

mgags7

I meant add this info to the faq, semantics ****.

Shouldn't you be busy with a certain someone anyways?

98vtec

sunday night is girls "dinner night" so......yea...