snobordboy

If you are doing the full kit, it involves drilling and tapping a hole in the block, so with the danger of loose metal particles, the best way to do this, is with the block totally stripped, and hot tanking it afterwards!

HpreludeH

people are saying slight vibrations, more vibrations, and now even more vibrations with the addition of mounts.... i have aftermarket mounts, and wanna do this kit. but i mean, how much more vibrations does it add honestly? And also when does it add these vibrations?.... haha and this will sound retarded to many, but work with me here. with the shafts spinning at 5k rpm in my mind i feel it may help with supplying oil to the bearings of the rods and crank. i mean if they were meant for balance it would be a straight shaft not cuts to make it have a ramp type effect. despite that theory im sure an argumentive approach would be more oil preasure but you can obtain that using a smaller filter or even more oil. this wouldn't be a deciding factor for this install or not; eventhough i wanna put this kit on the only thing stopping me is the fact of these vibrations! are these vibrations noticeable? and also when are the vibrations are noticeable? i may or may not do it. if its noticeable at idle then i feel this is a no-go; however if it only feels like that when the motor is under an excessive load it may be worth it. please help me with these questions to guys with these personal expirences thanks alot!

HpreludeH

that seems like a valid reasonable answer thanks alot man! imma ask around locally and see what ppl think about it and maybe get some first hand inside other cars and crap i may cut the belt i may not seems like a deal or no deal breaker so possibly yes

snobordboy

When I took off the belt on my first h22, I noticed it for about 3 days, then nothing. I would say I noticed sort of an extra vibration at about 2800 and 3800 or so rpm, when cruising consistent, other than that, nothing.

On my H23 I deleted the shafts, and never noticed any vibration, and I added harder mounts at the time of install as well.

I might notice it if I got into a car with a bone stock H22, and there is definetely more noise and vibration than our RSX, but I also expect it with a 13 year older car.

megomaniac

a must see for diy balance shaft delete, great write up:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/%2420-h-f-balance-shaft-removal-2391818/


the last one that gets plugged in this thread is also covered in the diy. It's a 1/8 npt plug that sits deep in the oil passage that feeds the crank/ rods. 1/8th plug is tiny, not to hard to figure out where it goes.
I"ll get a picture next week some time, blocks in at a machine shop

I'm getting my rotating assembly balanced, from pulley to pressure plate.

pimpdd101

this may also be a noob question but if you add that block off plate on the cover. wheres the oil pump then??

BergRacing21

the oil pump, is the piece you are plugging and assembling the block of plate too. It works by crank not the balance shafts.

pimpdd101

im sorry, its not making sense to me. You need to have an oil pump right!?
or does this kit get rid of the oil pump as well? Because i see that the fancy block off plate covers where the oil pump goes..

thanks.

Mystral Hawk

It does not eliminate the oil pump. It just plugs up the ports where the balance shafts previously occupied.

BergRacing21

i don't know what you're not understanding....that block of plate is covering a balance shaft hole not the Oil pump. that whole piece that you put the block of plate and plugs on IS the oil pump. If you go back to first page and look at the pics...that whole thing he has off the car when pressing the plugs in is the actual oil pump. Neither of those gears is the oil pump those are the balance shafts.

Paul_H22

So the only way to block the oil passages on the mains is to remove the crank, flip the bearings, then put it back on? Mine has 20k original miles on it, don't want to really mess with the whole crank and bearings... No other way around it? What if I just use the dowels and not flip the crank bearings around cuz I thought the holes in the crank bearings r to oil the crank/crank bearings?

snobordboy

You don't have to flip the bearings if you use the dowels in the girdle, but you do have to block the one port up further in the block, which involves tapping and plugging, and the block should be bare for this, and cleaned well afterwards. If you look at the Kaizenspeed instructions, it will show you exactly what I mean.

megomaniac

1/8"npt plug in center of picture, used red loctite, torqued tight.

theREALomaRR

Great post! Thanks for the info!

Raccoon

Nice Guide. Is adding an ATI damper a good investment with this Kaizzenspeed removing kit?

StevenBoost

thanks 4 the tips.

Raccoon

What about the ATI damper question?

DCFIVER

Not sure about the ATI dampener, However I simply removed the balance shaft belt (Left the shafts in) and even with Poly mounts I hardly noticed any increase in vibration at all. I ran it that way for about 5 years. The shafts are there to cancel out the inherent NVH in a 4 cylinder engine, but Honda engines are so well constructed, there is very little NVH anyhow...

jsinher3

i am doing a h2b on my ef and i started my BS removal with the kstuned kit. what do you guys think about this?



its the thirds bearing, right under where you are suppose to thread the hole to and place the plug... i felt it with my finger and didnt feel anything same with the crankshaft. any suggestions, on what i should do?

jsinher3

also when reinstalling the main caps besides the torquing it in sequence, what else should be done to it? do i clean the oil from the bearings if so with what? or do i oil both the bearings and crank?

integra_101

whats the point of it being removed. didnt honda put it there for a reason

Pushrod

Would deleteing the balance shafts be ok in a prelude that's gets driven roughly 300 miles a week?

kulo

Great write up.