Sparksman

---EDIT--- Many things have changed about the car, and have decided to go another direction over whats mentioned.



Hello everyone! So time has come i stop being a klepto hoarder by just stealing info offline and keeping it all to myself lol. I decided to finally create an account on H-T!

So I live in WA, tucked away up in the NW. This is my first Honda. Im not new to spinning wrenches, been at it most of my life. Even have a little schooling, so i know my way around the kitchen lol. Ive never liked Honda's, but I've always loved the Preludes! So after I decided to sell my lifted toyota on tires "because was a cop magnet" i lucked out when i found my car.

I have a 1994 Vtec model, Azure Blue/Green Pearl factory paint. Came with all the bells and whistles of the day, 6-disc cd changer, factory cellular phone, all leather, digital gauges. Interior is 8/10. Only thing wrong is small tear in drivers seat and drivers seat-belt strap. Outside is 7/10, only because rear bumper sags 1/8th of an inch lower and clear coat is pealing in 2 small places.

When i bought the car it had a 5th gen H22A4 w/ a H23A1 tranny. Wasnt a hack job either! Car wasnt molested! Since it was my first "sports car" less then a year later BANG!.... LOL

So now im building a Jap spec H22a w/lsd. Im keeping N/a and have a goal of 230whp, which if achievable goal for my parts IMO. I Eventually plan on spraying 100 shot later down the road, I just want a Dyno sheet that say 300+whp lol.

Heres a list of my parts, I own 80% of the things on my list. Works been slow but Im determined to have on the road by mid summer! Been saving up and buying parts almost 2 years.... Anyhow il post pics later when i have enough posts.

-Injen cone filter
-Injen race division single piece true cold air.
-Skunk2 PRO 68mm Throttle Body
-Euro-R Intake manifold
-Rosko's EGR block off plates
-Euro-R fuel rail for Acura RDX 410cc injectors
-Acura RDX 410cc injectors Denso rated 550cc @ 70psi under 80% cycle duty
-Areomotive Fuel pressure regulator w/ Black Works gauge
-Brian Crower Pro Series Stage2 N/A cams
-AEM Tru-Time Adjustable cam gears
-Brian Crower Duel-Springs and retainers
-SuperTech High compression flat faced valves
-SuperTech valve seals
-Supertech valve guides
-Areomotive 340lph STEALTH fuel pump kit
-ARP main studs
-ARP head studs
-NGK Iridium spark plugs
-NGK Wires
-KaizenSpeed balance shaft eliminator
-KaizenSpeed Manuel Tensioner
-Exedy Stage 2 clutch
-Fidanza 8lb flywheel
-AEM wideband
-HAMP oil filter
-DNA Motoring Oil catch can
-AEM high flow fuel filter
-Royal Purple 6 quarts
-HAMP oil filter
-AEM methanol injection kit
-100 shot of nitrous
-2.5" catback from DNA motoring w/ strait pipe
-Megan racing stock replacement, Im considering the 2.5" down pipe swap.

Im having the head milled 30 thousandths of an inch, with flat faced valves il be 12:1+. I need high compression for my Pro'2 cams. Im also having the head port N' polished. Since im that high im going to be running a methanol/water injection set up to prevent pinging. Also running methanol will let me run the 100 shot of nitrous more safely. Engine will be fully rebuilt with all new bearing, rings, ect...

Anyhow thanks for reading! Let me know what you guys think, I've never really had much feed-back from fellow luders!

Bouckaroo

Go with larger diameter exhuast and you will see better gains from it. All the money spent on getting the parts will be wasted if you cannot flow enough air through your exhuast. Your engine can only flow in what it can flow out. If you dont want the noise then you can get a cut out for when you are just dd'ing the car and then have no restrictionexhuast when you are going fulltilt.

snobordboy

Are you staying with the stock H22 bore and stroke, and just planning on the flat valves and a skim to get you to 12:1 ?

Your fuel system sounds like overkill, unless you are planning to do a dry 100 shot and supply fuel via the injectors for nitrous. I run stock jdm injectors with a Walbro, and spray a wet 100 shot just dandy. According to trap speed calculations, that had me making around 307 at the wheels at my altitude.

The big concern would be your ringlands, make sure you have a decent ring gap when you rebuild. My first rebuild I kept the gaps too tight, and blew a piston hotlapping at the track with the 100 shot.

Sparksman

Hey first of all thanks for the replies! Any and all input is good input IMO. I just need the meth kit, nitrous kit, wide band, ARP studs, and high flow fuel filter off that list. Everything else on the list i already own, including some other dress up items not mentioned. My over all goal is to have a fun DD, that i can go Autocross on the weekends with. I live like 15 min from Portland Internationale Raceway "PIR".

Agreed a bigger exhaust does flow more air, ideally send it strait out the front fender lol. But for me buying the motor, tranny, and all of the other parts, another $1,000+ for a legit header back set up is just to big of a bite for me to chew all at once financially. My old exhaust was hella rusty, so a cheap replacement exhaust was really my only option. I wanted to focus my money else where, exhausts can be changed later down the road in 40min. Id see 3" being absolutely necessary for a boosted car, 2.5 should be good for a decent N/a DD, plus it would just make louder then its already going to be lol.

Yep! I went for over-kill lol. The quickest way to blow up a motor is deep in the R's while running lean... Especially being higher in the R's and pressing the happy button, I didnt want to have any issues. The Areomtive 340lph pump will hold a constant 90psi as long as you run a new power wire from the battery. Said not to use OEM power wire in instructions for the in tank pumps. Those RDX injectors have 2 denso cc ratings, 410cc @40-44? psi and 550cc @ 70psi for sure. RDX spray with a conical pattern "like a spritzer bottle" instead of a flat wide spray pattern like most regular injectors. They should perform a little better then there rating as well, due to a more complete burn.

My plan was to build the hell out of the head, because H series are bad about spun rod bearing.... reason my last engine went out... I want to keep the bottom end semi stock, all stock internals. Im going to do a full rebuild this time, but if my engine spins another rod, or like you have ring issues. I could easily pick up another JDM short block with the 10.6:1. Swap over the balance shaft delete, and the light weight flywheel and install. It would be essentially a fresh jdm swap again, but the best part it would be Plug N' Play!

Thats why im milling the head so much instead of trying to build the bottom end. Im only expecting maybe 60K out of this new motor anyhow... Its never getting close to 100K+. So my idea is if it explodes on me, $500 dollars for a new block, and maybe need new valves, but only if they get bent.

Sparksman

So ive managed to pop my posting cherry and hit the magical double digits to allow picture posts. Heres a few pics of my progress, and parts.

Heres my Prelude, engines been pulled and is on 4 compact spares haha...








Heres one of many late nights working



Heres the H22A4 that came with it when i bought it, now pulled.



Heres a pic of my parts pile in my room from a little bit ago when i mocked up my Euro-R. I have a bit of parts now that aren't in this pic.



Injen intake, Skunk2 68mm TB, Rosko edm RDX fuel rail and egr plates, Aremotive Fpr, Black Works liquid guage.



Some legit OEM Jdm honda badges!



Heres a little show for my go! Bought a few dress up items!

snobordboy

Nice parts pile, and the Rosko sweetness!

Hopefully you already have it in your plans, but make sure you check all of the V2V and P2V clearances before you button the motor up, so you can set the cam gears properly when tuning, and not do any damage from un-intended contact!

Sparksman

Thanks man! Its been a long road collecting what i have, Ive been trying to only use Oem and name brand parts as best I can. Everyone knows the saying; Fast - Reliable - Cheap- You can only have two, never all 3. Not being cheap is killing my wallet

As far as V2V clearance i should be good, im not runnign over sized valves, and dont see me being more then 2 degrees advanced. As for P2V i worry every night!.....lol

Ive talked to a local performance shop who has reputably been building 800hp V8 monsters for people for years. I've know a few people who had them build beastly v8's for their jet-boats. Im going to have them do my Port N' polish, and full radius valve job. Since they have to take head apart, I asked and they said they would reassemble my head again with my new valve train for no extra $.

Since I dont want to take ANY chances with my P2V clearance, I was going to have them clay my engine. Im sure they have done it once or twice building performance engines professionally , i hope lol... After they clay it, I was going to have them do the initial timing. Honestly I know I could do it. But Im going to be like 8K in this swap, Id rather have the assurance of a more experienced builder do something this critical. There is zero room for a learning curve at this point, too much money has been spent. I recognize when its time to take a step back and let someone else help, rather then take unnecessary risks.

But by mid to late summer I plan on having at least driving. By the next summer it will be a respectable Prelude. Its dumb how alot of the Honda community shuns Preludes and there owners like a red headed step child... I personally think Civics are ugly, and 90% of them feel cheap as hell inside..

Plus every civic owner loves ripping out all of their already cheap interior to save 10 lbs.. Id rather run decent 13's with full leather interior, and A/c, power steering. Then low 12's with a gutted tin can that reeks of burning oil...Which one would your girl want to go on a road trip in? lol If your worried about 10lbs so much do some jumping jacks...