ESP.net

I am rebuilding a OBD1 Closed Deck JDM H22A FRM block I am curious how well a OEM Type S .25mm (oversized piston) or Mahle Gold Series would work with the proper honing procedure done?

Is it a myth of oversized FRM piston builds not lasting long?

I have a Machine Shop locally that guarantee's they can do the work successfully and have. Far as using a oversized piston just a super power hone? My question is there any issue of running oversized piston and enough material in the cylinders to be okay after all said and done?

vinuneuro

There's no issues with using oversize pistons during a rebuild..why would there be? I know of at least two roadrace cars that use overbored blocks. They see redline constantly for 30min at a time.

In my opinion, it'd be a better idea for you to send the block to GE since they def know how to do this correctly, and they only charge $150 to overbore and hone (you send your pistons with the block and specify the cyl-wall clearance you want). Shipping wouldn't be that much since you're not too far. Well worth the extra shipping cost imo.

If you're dead set on using your machine shop, here are the specific stones that should be used. This is the info I got directly from a Sunnen engineer who's familiar with the H22 blocks.

JHU-623, JHU-818

ESP.net

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's no issues with using oversize pistons during a rebuild..why would there be? I know of at least two roadrace cars that use overbored blocks. They see redline constantly for 30min at a time.

In my opinion, it'd be a better idea for you to send the block to GE since they def know how to do this correctly, and they only charge $150 to overbore and hone (you send your pistons with the block and specify the cyl-wall clearance you want). Shipping wouldn't be that much since you're not too far. Well worth the extra shipping cost imo.

If you're dead set on using your machine shop, here are the specific stones that should be used. This is the info I got directly from a Sunnen engineer who's familiar with the H22 blocks.

JHU-623, JHU-818</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks food for thought local place here charges $300.00 might be wiser to send it off. I was more worried about any coatings etc that the FRM may have that taking it to .25 would get rid of.

my9thtry

Honda says you can do it, you can do it. Simple as that.

My rebuilt engine runs the Mahle's and it runs great. They do come out a little higher then 11.5 though. Good luck.

1fastlude1

there is no coatings that it will get rid of, i would go with the mahle's im running them on my boosted 4gen @16 psi they are great

NirVTEC

Hmmm...interesting how people didn't light you up like they usually would when asked this question that has been asked 1000 times....

Apex1972

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm...interesting how people didn't light you up like they usually would when asked this question that has been asked 1000 times....
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Quite refreshing, I think.

NirVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apex1972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Quite refreshing, I think. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed....I hope people don't get too used to it. Next we'll see people asking WHICH EXHAUST IS BETTER or WHICH HEADER IS THE BEST!.....

manbearpig

So WHICH ONE IS?

ESP.net

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's no issues with using oversize pistons during a rebuild..why would there be? I know of at least two roadrace cars that use overbored blocks. They see redline constantly for 30min at a time.

In my opinion, it'd be a better idea for you to send the block to GE since they def know how to do this correctly, and they only charge $150 to overbore and hone (you send your pistons with the block and specify the cyl-wall clearance you want). Shipping wouldn't be that much since you're not too far. Well worth the extra shipping cost imo.

If you're dead set on using your machine shop, here are the specific stones that should be used. This is the info I got directly from a Sunnen engineer who's familiar with the H22 blocks.

JHU-623, JHU-818</TD></TR></TABLE>

The instructions I have say:

Use a rigid hone (not a ball hone) with GC-600-J or finer stones for nonferrous metals. The honing pressure should be 200-300 KPA (2-3 kg-cm2, 29-43 psi)
Use an oil type honing oil
Hone at 45-50 RPM to a 60 degree-crosshatch pattern
Do not stroke the hone more then 20 cycles
Clean with hot soapy water

vinuneuro

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The instructions I have say:

Use a rigid hone (not a ball hone) with GC-600-J or finer stones for nonferrous metals. The honing pressure should be 200-300 KPA (2-3 kg-cm2, 29-43 psi)
Use an oil type honing oil
Hone at 45-50 RPM to a 60 degree-crosshatch pattern
Do not stroke the hone more then 20 cycles
Clean with hot soapy water</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea that's from the helms. It's proven over time that it's not that straightforward in terms of executing what's in there. Perhaps you should go through of the archived threads.