Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

Ok... I've been messing with honda's for a while and building them.. I have this issue I have never dealt with.. Its a JDM h22 in a 92 Prelude with misfire in Number 1 Cylinder, I am getting spark, fuel and air in all cylinders. I recently bought this car with this problem. I've tested everything with multimeter and all is in spec. Injectors good, ecu good, plugwires good, plugs good and new resistor box, good grounds and wiring is flawless and I changed the ignitor, coilpack, cap and rotor, valvelash is in spec, compression is 230psi across. Only CEL is #10 for IAT but wouldn't affect my issue.

Maybe there something internally in distributor besides what I've replaced.

Here is where it gets wierd. When i switch firing order from 1-3-4-2 to 1-3-2-4 I WILL get Cylinder 1 to combust properly. but of course i'll have misfire in 2 & 4.

I just want to know if anyone else has had this issue. Trying to not pay for a brand new distributor

Any Help will be much appreciated!

97accordbuildlx

maybe u have a bad battery, sounds silly, but a guy who was running a high hp car had the same problem. swapped the battery and it ran great. i dont know how it relates to low hp engines, but if u have another car with a battery u can swap id check that first since its free. and if u switched the plug wiring shouldnt that rule out all fuel related issues and make u focus ur attention on your ecu and spark?

Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

Yes it does rule it out but i did most of those fuel related tests to just to make sure. I do have a weak battery but I have no idea how that would do anything since my alternator is working and pumping out 12+ v. Thanks I'll give it a try

97accordbuildlx

yea i could prolly find the link online. it was a tuner on youtube his name was dynoflash. but he was saying that he had a customer who had a misfire and they replaced literally everything and they still couldnt figure it out. he then replaced the battery and that was the issue. apparently the battery was deemed "bad" because the plates in the battery were touching each other? something of that nature,its been a while. but yea like i said i dont know how it relates to a car with a stock tune and stock hp, but it would definitely be worth a try before you throw anymore money into it. it was the first time ive ever heard of a battery being a culprit to a misfire related issue before too.

yroachy

An injector may test good electrically but may be clogged... Do an injector balance test. And at least get your battery tested, if not replaced since its weak.

Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

Well I switched the injectors in cylinder 1 with cyl 2 and cylinder 2 still fires correct and cylinder 1 does not. So I know it's not the injectors. The injector is pulsating and reads same ohm aswell with the rest.

Well I put a new battery in and now my starter just went out. So my luck cant do anything till I get the new one in. But when I took the old battery out I saw that the negative ground wire was frayed to the last stran of wire. So I replace it with a new one and I used sand paper on all ground contact spots to make sure good connections. As soon as I get the starter I'll see if it changes anything.

holmesnmanny

Try pulling the egr valve hose and run it without it. It should throw a code 12. That's what you want. See how it runs with that code on. The only other thing I can think of it the spark plug wire bad. You can hook up a timing light to that spark plug wire at the very end near the spark plug and see if it's firing correctly.

preludeNApower

Distributor is sending spark at the wrong time. Swapping the wires around tells u that. Replace the distributor

Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

Ok. I have an update. I got my new starter and started the car. I took the info that holmesnmanny told me and disconnected the EGR Vaccum and right away I was getting all spark to all cylinder and no more misfire and rev'd great!!!

So what do I do now? just plug off the EGR or is it dirty and i have to clean it?



EDIT: Actually just got this info off the net. So basically what I got from the info below is my EGR is stuck open letting too much gas get into the cylinder not allowing it to combust, thus creating a misfire.....



The EGR valve should remain CLOSED when the engine is COLD and IDLING. When the engine is warm and is accelerating or working hard under a load, the EGR valve should OPEN. With vacuum-operated EGR valves, intake vacuum pulls the valve open when conditions are right. Some EGR valves also sense exhaust backpressure and do not open until backpressure reaches a certain level. On others, the EGR valve is electronic and is controlled by the PCM. No vacuum is used to operate the valve.

When the EGR valve opens, it allows a small amount of exhaust gas to be siphoned back into the intake manifold. This dilutes the air/fuel mixture, cools combustion and reduces the formation of oxides of nitrogen (NOx). If the EGR valve fails to close when EGR is not required, or if it leaks because of carbon buildup on the valve stem or valve seat, exhaust will be sucked into the intake manifold all the time creating a lean fuel mixture. This will cause lean misfire and set a random misfire code. Cleaning the EGR valve seat and stem may eliminate the sticking problem. If this fails, replace the EGR valve.

On some engines, this kind of problem may not appear until the engine warms up. The EGR valve may remain closed while the engine is cold, but it starts to leak when the engine is warm. This may be due to a weak spring inside the EGR valve. The fix here is to replace the EGR valve.

The operation of the EGR valve can be checked several ways. One is to observe the valve stem (if possible) while goosing the throttle. No movement would indicate a problem with the EGR valve or its vacuum supply. Another is to apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve with a hand pump with the engine running at fast idle. This should pull open the EGR valve and cause a momentary drop in rpm. A third method is to replace the EGR valve and see if that cures the random misfire problem.

holmesnmanny

It can only be one of two things. Either vacuum is somehow getting to the egr valve at idle, which is not supposed to happen, except for when you first start your car, I believe the ecu tests the egr lift sensor very momentarily to see if it's working. First, clear the code, then you will need a vacuum pump or gauge and lift the egr valve hose and hook the gauge up to the hose. It should not have any vacuum on a cold start. If there is no vacuum then the issue is the egr valve itself which is either sticking open or the egr valve gasket is leaking exhaust air into the instake manifold. Either way, what must be happening since the issue if only occuring with the number 1 cylinder is that the port to that cylinder is open and the others are probably clogged. Normally jdm h22'a have the egr ports welded shut, as mine did, so you would either need to drill them out, which would be a pain to do, or get another lower half of the intake manifold for either a 4th or 5th gen prelude. I opted for a 5th gen prelude lower half. The lower half is the same for both gens. Then buy the egr plugs and do an egr port cleaning while you're at it. You could get by with just fixing the exhaust leak but you might as well just clean it all up.

Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

I am running a p28 chipped with h22 maps. So It doesn't even look for the egr?
I am going to be taking a look at the egr and clean it up some today I'll let u know what I find. I appreciate the help btw

yroachy

If its not using the egr at all since it's chipped then I woul just unplug the vacuum control solenoid on the drivers side shock tower. You could even go as far as removing it and the associated vacuum lines and cap the port on the intake mani. And while you're at it get yourself an egr block off plate to clean up your engine bay a little.

Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

I cap'd the vacuum. Idles nice no check engine lights besides the IAT. And vtec hits at 4,500 But I get a very bad hesitation after 5,500. And can barely get to 7,500 it seems like detonation. But the guy who chipped it is Monotech out of Cali, he says its for h22 with I,h, exhaust and has disabled o2, Anything I should check out?

Would it be safe to check this ecu on my b20/vtec to see if ecu is good alteast?

yroachy

Check your dizzy timing.

Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

All Timing is on point. So the iat sensor has no affect?

yroachy

Iat is taken into account by the computer when calculating fuel delivery... It's also used during startup.

Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

Even though I capped the vacuum for egr. Would it still somehow be affecting the engine. I do plan on getting the egr delete plate, just wondering

P.O.S P5

I have the answer to all your problems lol
I didn't feel like reading the whole thread
anyways the piece that goes into the cam on the dizzy is probably backwards which is missing up the timing, **** happened to me, so just flip it and reinstall
and running a chipped p28 ecu you should have no problem just blocking off the egr, also like me

Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

Checked that already, Only goes in one way.

P.O.S P5

DUH!!!! Let me be more specific lol
http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...trib_Oring.jpg

okay take the clips that hold that little prong(piece that goes from dizzy to camshaft) thing on and just turn it the other way then re install it.
If you think about it that thing being backward will mess with the rotor inside the dizzy

hope that makes sense lol

Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

Oh I see will try it out

Spoon84

iTrader: (1)

I had some zex sparkplugs in there. I checked cylinder 2 and found out that my sparkplugs broke in half. Got new ngk ones in and runs hard now. So the egr and plugs was the problem

PrittyPearllude

I am having the same problem with my H22 '99 Prelude. So replacing the EGR and battery solved it?

Meeklo Kidd

Is there anyone here lol I need help I bought a 94 accord with a h22 swap.
the car is obd1 but my swap is obd2

when I start my car I got an h22a with two dead cylinders, so far it has 225 psi all across fuel injectors are operating and it's getting spark,and all spark plugs have been cleaned and gapped so far when tps is unplugged car stays running and doesn't hesitate as it should. Also as soon as I turn my key my cylinder 1 & 2 die. Any ideas???

TimiK

what kind of ecu/map?
have you checkd/adjusted valves?