alterdcreations

have you recantly removed any vacume hoses.
looks like you switched your egr vac hose

M2B4

how does it look like i switched it? i didnt even post a pic? well i checked timing and it was pretty much right on. hard to tell b/c a diff angle u view from then it looks diff.

preludeh22a1

hows everything goin on? im reading everybody's advice, it happened to me before, but thats because my bro put some different sparkplugs on it, and then i juz replace it with regular ngk's,

i checked it once in a while. how's your gas milleage? does it eat a lot of gas?

i hope you fix it dude, its costing you money buying spark plugs every week.

M2B4

yeah i use alot of gas. im back to the drawing board.

mgags7

firstly, motors dont use spark, engines do

now....since its hogging gas also, I'm thinking you have a fuel system problem rather than an oil problem. Go to pepboys and buy the b&m fuel pressure guage and mount it on the fuel filter or on the rail, and check the pressure. Also, is this on a stock p13 with 345cc prelude injectors or is there some other setup?

M2B4

yeah stock jdm p13, stock injectors. i need 2 get a gauge.

M@

I doubt that it would be an exhaust leak before the O2 as I had a complete failure of my flexpipe and never had any problems. I would even go so far as to say a complete failure of the o2 might not cause that, since I know people have driven w/ that check engine light and didn't have any problems.

See if you can get someone to follow you around. Maybe if they see smoke you would be able to at least say either oil or gas.

btw you should be able to clean your fouled plugs w/ either starter fluid and fire, or just some sand paper so long as you are using the copper $2 a piece plugs.

M2B4

yeah i thought about that. i kept the last set to try and clean just incase. ill have a friend drive behind me 2day.

alterdcreations

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how does it look like i switched it? i didnt even post a pic? well i checked timing and it was pretty much right on. hard to tell b/c a diff angle u view from then it looks diff. </TD></TR></TABLE>
good luck

M2B4

well friend drove behind me said he saw a good bit of black smoke when i took off specially with vtec.

M2B4

great...well im pretty sure this set of plugs is about to go. started it up and when i gave it gas it just about died. does this and progressivly gets worse b4 they foul. its weird tho only when the cars cold does it do this b4 they foul once it warms up itll run fine. ima go buy a new set of plugs just in case and a fuel pressure gauge after work.

M@

Am I right in thinking you have a JDM H22?

Is it possible that you got the injectors mixed up when you did the swap? (btw I don't know anything about swaps so I'm just throwing things around.)

M2B4

i do have jdm h22, guy who helped with swap told me he was positive he used h22 injectors. ne 1 know of the part # or w/e written on the injector to decipher between the 2. but i would think it would be a lean situation with the h23 injectors since they are smaller.

M@

I was thinking there is a difference between the H22 and the H22A1 injectors, but I don't know any numbers.

Nismo180

Your overthinking, check the temp level of the plugs your running, then check all your vacuum tubes/sensor connections. Still fouling rub the plugs does it feel like oil? Do they smell like gas? feels like oil look at valve seals, especially since your getting excessive smoke on VTEC engagement. If they smell like gasoline, do they all smell like gasoline? One or two plugs, probably some bad/leaky injectors, all of them? look at your FPR.

2/3 of these posts were made by people that are just as in the dark as you, guessing and throwing money at a problem works, but it sure takes alot more time and money, just use the process of elimination.

M2B4

ok the spark is hot enuf. i did test that. all vacuums are hooked up i havnt tested sensors yet b/c havnt had the time yet. well i noticed again today ive got some massive smoke on vtec lol. the plugs smell like fuel. when i pulled 2 of the plugs they were just a little wet. ima go buy a bottle of injector cleaner and see if that helps. im saving all the "bigger" tests for next weekend when im off.

Nismo180

There will always be a little smoke on Vtec, that's the nature of the beast, if they are wet and smell like gas you can bet that's your problem, good luck with the bottle of cleaner, I've heard of it working but never had that kind of luck myself. Taking the injectors to a shop and having them rebuilt/serviced shuoldn't be too expensive at all, just have to locate a shop that does injector work.

mgags7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking there is a difference between the H22 and the H22A1 injectors, but I don't know any numbers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope. both 345cc

flyrod

Sounds like you have checked most of the usual stuff. It seems like the mixture is wrong for some reason. This is usually caused by problems with the O2 sensor or some other sensors that keep the ecu in open loop. If the fuel pressure or injector size is too far off, then the ecu may not have enough adjustment to compensate. This might not be an option for you, but when I get stuck I datalog the engine sensors. It is pretty clear this way when a sensor is reading wrong, like ECT, IAT, or O2. Maybe there is someone near you who can help out? Otherwise there is probably a helm procedure for tracking down the problem, and it probably involves systematically checking things and replacing parts or sensors. Good luck.

M@

As was pointed out in the post I'm a 2/3er that is totally in the dark. I don't deserve to even read this thread let alone try and figure out some process of elimination with you.

Ohh, Mr. Nismo hasn't added anything so I guess the ratio just droped to some other made up figure lets say 3/4er. I'm a 3/4er.

Before the plugs foul, say when you first put them in you say it runs fine. Have you had this problem since you fired it up? It seems like if you are able to get into Vtec, and the rev-limiter is above the redline on the tach, that you might not be in open loop mode as I was thinking that lowered the revlimiter. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Also the nature of the beast is to smoke some in Vtec, not smoke during regular driving and alot during vtec

Just to double check when you tested the coil
primary resistanceA-B 0.6-0.8 ohm
secondary resistanceA-output 14-22 kohm

And there was continuity between A and C

Plug gap = 0.039-0.043 in

Plugs
PZFR6F-11 normal driving
PFR7G-11 Hot climates or continuous high speed driving

I've been looking at the Helms for all this stuff, and I can't find anything related to fouling plugs. At one point they would have said you need a new ECU, but not changed the plugs.

M2B4

well i tested the intake air temp sensor and the engine coolant temp. iat voltage was fine. i couldnt get 200-400 ohms on the ect only kilaohms so i replaced that and still cudnt get a ohm reading, added fuel injector cleaner yesterday so ima keep driving it and see how the plugs act. yeah the coil tested out fine when i tested it. i still havnt gotten a fuel gauge b/c every parts store either dosent have or wants like 45 bux and id rather just find a real gauge not a tester off ebay.

midnitesol

I know this is a super old thread ans I'm taking a shot in the dark but did you ever get this resolved? I'm having the same issue now...

holmesnmanny

number 1 cause would be an exhaust leak which causes the ecu to dump fuel into the system thinking there is excess oxygen in the system which is not the case, but a false alarm by oxygen leaking into the exhaust, you can test for an exhaust leak using seafoam into the brake booster hose on a completely cold startup when the car is idling high at 1500 or so, it will leak white smoke out of the exhaust anywhere from the exhaust manifold to the oxygen sensor

number 2 cause is the engine coolant temperature sensor being bad, you can test it across the two pins, it should be 180-250 ohms when the car is completely warmed up and 2000-2500 when the car is completely cooled down