ketchup

iTrader: (3)

Everything else passed then the smog tech fails me for having a high idle ~900rpms WTF?!

He references his manual and it says 650-750rpm is factory spec for the 94 prelude vtec.

Now I have the throttle body adj screw all the way in and my idle is barely @ 750. Btw, it's a H22A. I believe the factory idle on those are 800-900.

crazes

check in the faq section for the helms. if you cant adjust anymore through the screw then look at adjusting through your throttle cable.

ketchup

iTrader: (3)

I thought adjusting thru the throttle cable is a no no?

For whats its worth, I even have the idle set at 700 in crome......maybe I should give 600 a shot.........

holmesnmanny

It is a no-no.

You need to set your base idle. If you're using a chipped ecu, don't let the tech know you are or he will probably fail you.

First, get your hands on a tachometer. Some timing guns also double as a tachometer. The reason I say this is that oem tachometers are known to be off. Mine was, that's why I suggest to use a real tachometer and not to rely on the in-dash one. Then jumper the service connector and remove the iacv connector. Then start the car and set your idle to 600 rpms. Then turn the car off, remove the radio/backup fuse for five minutes or so and restart the car and it should set itself to your spec idle.

If you can't get your base idle down to 600 rpms then you have a vacuum leak.

Keep in mind that, assuming your in-dash tachometer does work correctly, the very first white line after 0 rpms is actually 500 not 200. Most people don't realize this.

holmesnmanny

tbh I'm not sure at all why they are failing you because of your high idle...sounds a bit silly to me

crazes

seriously you can do it...the amount your adjusting is a slight turn which will not effect your overall length which is the problem. thats the reason they dont want you adjusting the cable. plus the fact that you have crome you can adjust the cable and verify the tps is reading 100%. if not just retrack the positions.

ketchup

iTrader: (3)

It's asinine. The idle is steady and doesn't bounce, the car shows no signs that its unstable; although it does prefer the 900rpm idle.

I think it's because the tech is a noob. He probably just got that job and doesn't want to risk anything. He said to come back when his manager is there so he'd be more comfortable with passing it, over-looking the fact that the idle is a hair out of spec. The manager is pretty laxed.

I've passed this car at another station before with the 900rpm idle, for 6 years in a row; but now I have to goto 'Star certified' stations for smog.

And the other day I forgot to reset my timing to 13, failed the 15mph by a hair of NOx, FML.....

Btw, my idle with the iacv unplugged is at 600. When I plug the iacv back in and restart, it settles at 800-900 (this is with the ECU set at 700). What gives?! I have to turn the idle adjust screw all the way in to lower it ~750.

ketchup

iTrader: (3)

QUEENS REPRESENT!!! Queens blvd!!!!

I'm not messing with the throttle cable. I only have crome free and I can't set the TPS range for sh*t and its an AM TPS. Thanks for the advice tho.

holmesnmanny

are you referring to the throttle stop screw ? 'cause obviously if his car is idling high already, adjusting the throttle cable can only allow for more air not less, which is going to cause a higher idle

normally people say to mess with the throttle cable if your idle is lower than specs not higher...never heard someone say to mess with the throttle cable when someone already has a higher idle

op, you really should just get an external tachometer just to be sure your tach is accurate

holmesnmanny

now that I think of it perhaps you're thinking that the throttle cable is too tight which is allowing for a higher than normal idle...if that's the case then I can understand where you're coming from

op, check and see if there is any slack in the throttle cable...it should have a lil bit of slack so that the throttle plate is closing all the way