PreIudeSI

yeah but the whole point is saving money. I've realized how retarded it is to dump 10s of thousands of dollars into a car just to have your 11 seconds of fame at a drag strip somewhere where the announcer doesn't even know what kind of car you drive. If i blow the f22, who cares i'll buy another one. you can buy at least 10 bareblocks for the cost of a sleeved h23. If i blow it more than that, then who cares, i'll just sell the car because by then i'll have had the fun of popping 10 engine blocks which is worth it in itself.

I doubt the rods would break with a cracked sleeve.

btw i think i'm not gonna sell the h23 pistons. i think i may bore an f22 block and use a blockguard. i dunno though... if i end up thinning out the walls too much, i'll just go with f22 pistons in which case i'll sell the h23 pistons

stareatsun

rob, tom, no doubt it will be cheap and fast, but hopefully it will be reliable. looking back to when he first started this, its more like expenside, reliable, long time, and fast. He did have to do a fair amount of custom work and not to mention he lokes his turbo setups expensive...well for me anyway.

yohan

prelittlelude, are you driving this beast yet ??
Has anybody got a dyno for the F22B2 w/ H series transmission / H23/h22 head ?


(Shamless plug ... I am parting out my old H23 ... buy my head for cheapy cheapy, all it needs is a cam seal, 125k .. must sell asap!)


Modified by yohan at 6:35 PM 10/4/2004

drumking15

its very close to completion...all the turbo **** is in...waiting on a few things....

i sooo cant wait for this thing to see boost....gettin it to run w/ a decent tune will be the hardest part...wish us luck

PirateMcFred

Well no dyno yet but my F23/H23 hybrid ran for its first 20 minutes today. It started right up and ran like a champ on my old H22 ROM. As soon as I get some time I will street tune and customize my maps with wideband AF meter.

I just ran in the rings so I did not actually drive it. The only problem was a leaking oil pan. Not just an ooze either. But that is fine. It is time for another oil change anyway. I will just reseal the pan while there is no oil in it.

I am running a DC header and I had to mod the rear alternator cover to clear the cyl No. 1 primary. Maybe the stock header would not be such a problem but I bet that it is the F23 alternator bracket that is the main cause. Now I have a cool (or hot rather) 1/8th inch clearance.

I am not running the balance shafts on it and it runs smoother at 3000rpm than my dad's CRVTEC which I find amazing since mine is a 97mm crank vs. his 89mm. The vibration is most pronounced at idle.

Anyway another hybrid is completed. I will wait until I dyno to post the whole setup.

Pirate

JadedGamerX

Yohan I have an f22b1 in a 94 ex coupe with plans on turboing at some point. Would there be any point in trying to bolt up the h23 head or would it be too much of a headache? I am on a limited budget and don't have time to try 30 different timing belts if all doesn't line up well (pistons, rods, head clearance issues?) Otherwise I'm going to have to re-read this thread and see what bolted up to the f22b1/2 series motors without a lot of work. Hadn't seen an updated post for a while so I figured people lost interest.

BoostedH23Accord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JadedGamerX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yohan I have an f22b1 in a 94 ex coupe with plans on turboing at some point. Would there be any point in trying to bolt up the h23 head or would it be too much of a headache? I am on a limited budget and don't have time to try 30 different timing belts if all doesn't line up well (pistons, rods, head clearance issues?) Otherwise I'm going to have to re-read this thread and see what bolted up to the f22b1/2 series motors without a lot of work. Hadn't seen an updated post for a while so I figured people lost interest.</TD></TR></TABLE> Simple the H23 timing belt. with the H23 lower timing gear. Other than that its simple. The only headache you will have in an Accord is Fuel rail and making sure you connect all sensors up correctly. Other than that it's plug and play

SKDRCR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well no dyno yet but my F23/H23 hybrid ran for its first 20 minutes today. It started right up and ran like a champ on my old H22 ROM. As soon as I get some time I will street tune and customize my maps with wideband AF meter.

I just ran in the rings so I did not actually drive it. The only problem was a leaking oil pan. Not just an ooze either. But that is fine. It is time for another oil change anyway. I will just reseal the pan while there is no oil in it.

I am running a DC header and I had to mod the rear alternator cover to clear the cyl No. 1 primary. Maybe the stock header would not be such a problem but I bet that it is the F23 alternator bracket that is the main cause. Now I have a cool (or hot rather) 1/8th inch clearance.

I am not running the balance shafts on it and it runs smoother at 3000rpm than my dad's CRVTEC which I find amazing since mine is a 97mm crank vs. his 89mm. The vibration is most pronounced at idle.

Anyway another hybrid is completed. I will wait until I dyno to post the whole setup.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good job mang

Did you completely remove the balance shafts
or just simply not run the belt?

PirateMcFred

I left the shafts in since I did not know how bad the vibration was going to be. Just no belt. I also did not have the plugs for the shaft holes and it looked like getting the shaft bearings turned was going to be a PITA.

Hopefully I can get it street tuned today. I will keep this thread updated.

Pirate

yohan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JadedGamerX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yohan I have an f22b1 in a 94 ex coupe with plans on turboing at some point. Would there be any point in trying to bolt up the h23 head or would it be too much of a headache? I am on a limited budget and don't have time to try 30 different timing belts if all doesn't line up well (pistons, rods, head clearance issues?) Otherwise I'm going to have to re-read this thread and see what bolted up to the f22b1/2 series motors without a lot of work. Hadn't seen an updated post for a while so I figured people lost interest.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont want to ***** the thread, so hit me a PM if your interested.. I need to sell it quickly and I'll let it go cheapy cheapy .. 125k miles on the engine.. if your is SOHC , this will give you DOHC and should give more power accross the band (I think) from what I've read the oil passages all match up no problem. if the accord fuel rail mates up, no problem, otherwise you'll need to extend your fuel line to the driver side of the IM to work w/ the JDM fuel rail.

Ask Pirate for what gains to expect.

Pirate, I got a P14ECU (H23) also if your interested in running it with that setup ..

PirateMcFred

Thanks but I have a custom chipped P28. I can tune part throttle and everything. I just used the stock h22 rom for the 20 minute initial startup.

Pirate


Modified by PirateMcFred at 3:47 PM 10/7/2004

PirateMcFred

I fixed the oil pan gasket and drove around to further seat the rings. It has about 10 miles on it now and no drips or funky noises. My exhaust is louder than my old H22 but nothing that rolling up the windows won't fix. As far as winding it out, I need to know what the H23 head can handle stock.. I took it to 6400 and it pulls real nice for 5500' elevation. Anyone ever take a stock H23 head to 7000? the last thing I want to do is grenade the engine after 10 miles.

I will put a few hundred miles on the engine after wideband tuning it on the street and then take it to the dyno for some numbers then go and abuse it at my next track day on Halloween (fitting for a frankenstein motor)

Pirate


Modified by PirateMcFred at 10:30 AM 10/6/2004

mikeyvt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I fixed the oil pan gasket and drove around to further seat the rings. It has about 10 miles on it now and no drips or funky noises. My exhaust is louder than my old H22 but nothing that rolling up the windows won't fix. As far as winding it out, I need to know what the H23 head can handle stock.. I took it to 6400 and it pulls real nice for 5500' elevation. Anyone ever take a stock H23 head to 7000? the last thing I want to do is grenade the engine after 10 miles.

I will put a few hundred miles on the engine after wideband tuning it on the street and then take it to the dyno for some numbers then go and abuse it at my next track day on Halloween (fitting for a frankenstein motor)

Pirate


Modified by PirateMcFred at 10:30 AM 10/6/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you do a h23 head on a f22b2 block?

prelude si 92

does any one have an h22 vtec head with ecu ????... im me back please please please....o no itz steve sabz

prelude si 92

does anyone have an h22 vtec head with the ecu i can buy off themm......im me back please please.....o no itz steve sabz

hondaaccord2.2

well i have known about this head swap for about six months now and have been on the look out for an h23/h22 head for cheap
this weekend i managed to pickup a whole h23 with intake, alternator, power steering pump, and header for $200
why? because it spun the #2 rod bearing but other than that the engine is spotless the head is extremely clean and i think worth what i had paid for the whole thing. i am planning on boosting with this head on my f22 to amke atleast 250 hp, easy goal but right now im going to get better cams (which i cannot find ) and put it on my car NA
im just curious what computer i should use right now. i am going to go ahead and get larger injectors and an apexi afc and aftermarket ignition so i think i should have no problems tuning for better flow with the accord computer or would it be better for me to get a prelude ecm so i can use the knock sensor

PirateMcFred

For cams look into Crower. The stage ones for an H23 will be good for boost. They are not listed on their website. Call Brian at crower and he can tell you specifics. Here is a link to some dynos of the stage ones:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1007198

You can use a P14 (H23) ecu if you want but it sounds like the Accord ECU will work too.

Pirate

hondaaccord2.2

well i just reread everything up to the running engine (its been a while) and am pleasantly surpised that the h23 will be far easier to use than the h22 head .
just some nice cams and a p&p and it will be greatand not to bring up old stuff bu t to clarify it for myself a h22 or h23 will drop into a f22
is there any gains form using a h23 crank are they any stronger?
and if i use a h22 crank my displacement will drop to about 2.0L but could rev like crazy. but if i were to se a crower stroker crank for an h22 id retain displacement and gain strength.
do f series have oiling problems like the h23?
what rods are interchangable
is there any downfall in an open deck block vs. closed deck

PirateMcFred

F22 crank/rods = H23 crank/rods

Those cranks are strong enough if you are going to use stock F22 sleeves for boost. And if you have the moolah for a Crower stroker crank then why not build an H22 from the get-go?

Open deck is generally believed to be less strong than closed deck when revving really high and boosting a crap load. But like I said if you are keeping the stock pistons/rods/sleeves then you will have other problems first.

Pirate

drumking15

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude si 92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anyone have an h22 vtec head with the ecu i can buy off themm......im me back please please.....o no itz steve sabz</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is not a classifieds post

stay on topic here guys...

BoostedH23Accord

Anybody have any new info with this set up? Prelittlelude? Are you boosted yet?

fastludeh22

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedH23Accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anybody have any new info with this set up? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i finally have my f23 in front of me...and a h22 head

drumking15

tom;s lude as it sits....is ready to be boosted ....tiding up a few things here and there...he's now back in skewl so he doesnt have much time for ht...but ill let you guys know when its up and running...should be soon we're hoping before the end of october...but gettin this together has been the easy part...making it run on his ems...now thats the only chore we have at hand

drumking15

mauhaaaa it runs....we haven't driven it yet...but it fires up w/ tom's open 3" dp since we've yet to weld the exhaust up....but this thing sounds mean....the turbo gets a slight spool....sounds ever so tempting to just drop it and go see what it does ....but waiting to have it tuned now

BoostedH23Accord

Werd...
Glad to hear it. Mine is on the back burner right now. It runs fine but I need to find a Fuel rail for it so I wont be leaking gas all over the place.

Maybe I'll just light a match under the hood. Then call my insurance agent...