holmesnmanny

I know when I did my swap I had a hesitation issue too until I realized I need to use shielded wire for the knock sensor. It was the weirdest hesitation issue I have ever tried to diagnose and I spent literally months on it til I finally bought some shielded wire and wired it up and it ran perfectly after that. I don't know what kind of shell you're using or if your knock sensor wire is factory shielded. Just thought I'd throw this out there. What was happening was that I was using a single unshielded wire and it was picking up radio interference on its way to the ecu and I was getting my ignition timing screwed up in the 2-4k rpm range. After 5k it stops using the knock sensor input.

thericepatch

Yes, I drove it. My install hesitates a bit for the first couple of blocks until it gets good and warm, but after that it takes off like a rocket. Egr didn't change any hesitation though. I just did that because it occasionally threw a code. You might read my iacv wiring again, I rewrote it to be clearer. My other thought would be clean the throttle body and run injector cleaner through it if you haven't yet. Seafoam is the best for the injectors.

thericepatch

Don't think the jdm ecus use the kknocksensor holmsnmanny. Good info though, never would have thought to check that on one.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Damn that's crazy, because I didn't get any code for the EGR yesterday when I drove it, but did get the hesitation pretty bad from 2k-3k rpm, and this is when my car is fully at operating temperature. If the euro-r egr didn't change or help with the hesitation I think I might just keep the A4 one in for now til it gives me problems. I will run some injector cleaner in my car today and pray for a difference.

holmesnmanny

Some don't use the vtec pressure switch. If the engine has a knock sensor then it obviously uses the knock sensor input. Unless that engine doesn't have a knock sensor it will definitely use the input.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Yes mine came without the vtec pressure sensor, but I put my A4 one in from my old engine and my euro-r uses the knock sensor I am 100% because I double checked to make sure it was plugged in.

holmesnmanny

Pull the egr connector and let it run with the egr code on and see if the issue subsides. If it does, you know you're on the right track.

What harness are you using ? Do you have a shielded wire for your knock sensor ?

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Okay I will try to unplug the egr valve and see what happens. I am running the usdm obd2a engine harness with the rywire obd2a-obd2b jumper. The car runs very well and idles perfect. It just has that slight hesitation in 1st gear, but it only occurs sometimes not always.

holmesnmanny

So it's safe to assume you got a p13 chassis

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

yes its safe to say I do have a p13 chassis. Also here is the knock sensor plug/wire I have no idea if its shielded like you were referring to or not.

holmesnmanny

If it's factory wiring like it appears then it probably is shielded.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Yes its factory wiring, so I guess I am good to go thank god. And today I will be testing the egr issue out. If I unplug the egr and my issue is resolved with the slight hesitation what do I do from there? Buy and use the euro-r egr or what?

holmesnmanny

It's safe to assume that you cleaned out the ports already ? Let's see if it is egr related tho.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Yes sir I did clean out the EGR ports but it was half *** cleaning I didn't buy new plugs and drill/slide hammer the old ones out. I just took the EGR off and cleaned everything I could see and used a pipe cleaner as far as it would reach. I am assuming I need to do it the right way and buy the plugs?

holmesnmanny

Do the egr valve connector test pull and see what happens first.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

I pulled the connector off my egr and nothing happened, no code thrown or anything so I am confused does this mean my egr is bad or what? I am lost right now.

holmesnmanny

I believe it takes a couple drive cycles for it to throw a code. Run it a few times first with the connector unplugged. When it throws the code see if it drives fine after that.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Okay I will try driving it for awhile and see what happens. If it runs better with it throwing a code does this mean I have a bad egr or clogged egr ports and need to clean them?

holmesnmanny

Clogged ports would be my point of action if it does run better.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

well the check engine light finally came on yesterday when driving, and I have to admit it drives a bit worse with the hesitation issue. I will try to clean out my egr ports, take out the plugs and put new ones in and see what happens.

holmesnmanny

I hope your intake manifold has the plugs...the jdm's come with welded ports. I had to find a usdm p13 intake manifold when I did mine.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Yes my intake has the plugs on it I have checked to make sure they are there. I am just worried by cleaning the ports will it actually help or fix the hesitation issue at all. The weird thing is I noticed that the hesitation issue seems to happen worse when the car is at operating temp. And when it is getting warmed up the the issue is barely noticeable almost non-existent. Do egr valves ever go bad is that a possibility?
I also had the CEL return for the EGR while driving today, but it was plugged in so I am having the same issue as thericepatch who told me he later changed his egr just to get rid of the code, and it didn't help the hesitation.

holmesnmanny

The egr system doesn't start working until the car is warmed up so that is another indication that it is indeed egr related.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

EGR related meaning that my egr ports need to be cleaned and maybe I should replace the egr itself, or do they never fail?

holmesnmanny

yes, egr ports and the valve need to be cleaned....egr valves rarely ever fail...they just get gunked up....if anything the lift sensor will go bad before the diaphragm fails

for the valve just use your fingers and press on the diaphragm to make it go up and down while you spray it out with carb cleaner..it would be best obviously to pull the intake manifold to get a good cleaning and to not allow anything to get into the head