MaWeiTao

Over the last couple of months I've had the brake light coming on. It comes on only when I brake and only happens when the car is cold. After driving about 10 to 15 minutes the light stops coming on. I've also noticed it tends to happen only when it's colder out, when the temperature is in the 50s or so.

I've checked the fluid level and it's fine. The element that checks the fuild level seems to be moving freely. I haven't changed the fluid in a long time, although I don't think that's the source of the problem because the fluid is still fairly clean. I've considered the parking brake switch, but I find it odd that the light coming on coincides with me braking the car.

One thing I want to make clear is that this is the brake light, the same one for the parking brake, not the ABS light.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

GraphiteMW

Mines have been on since I bought the car. So i'm wondering the same thing.

asdfsad

could be a few things

1) lwo on break fluid
2) need a new floater becuase the one you have right now is causing the light.

Honda4Life.

I didn't feel like writing this all out on anther site so I put the link.
http://www.preludepower.com/fo...46716

There is a TSB for this problem. Read the postings on the other site and all the part numbers of what you need are there with prices.

Good luck,
MIke

.BigSexy

might sound like a dumb response, but mine came on b/c one of the bulbs in the 3rd brake light was out. check all of your bulbs, could be something as simple as that. it fixxed my problem

Cryogenius

I just went through this with my wife's 2003 Accord. As far as I know, there are two inputs for that e-brake warning light; one is the e-brake switch, and the other is the master cylinder level switch. I checked the e-brake switch by pulling up the plastic cover over the e-brake handle and it tested good with a volt-ohm meter. Then I pulled the plug on the MC level switch (the level was good) and this made the light go out. So in my case the switch was stuck or the float was bad. I replaced the master cylinder and all is good.

Before I replaced the MC I checked the new one and found, as I suspected, the switch is closed when the level is low and open when level is OK. You can check your switch with a continuity tester and if it is closed when the level is good that is your problem. By the way, once I pulled the level switch plug I found that the hand brake still made the light go on, so you would still have that warning if you just pulled the plug to make the light go out. Of course you would not know your brake fluid level was low until the brake pedal hits the floor some time in the future.

There was a time when warnings like brake fluid level did not exist, but since they are there now I always make sure they are working. Hence I replaced the MC (I was not able to find a way to repair just the switch itself).