All N/A 13 Second Owners
03-03-2007, 08:44 AM
#26
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Posts: 10,629
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (NAmiata)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAmiata »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It would probably cost way more than a turbo or supercharger so what's the point. That engine, like most honda vtechs, is already pretty tuned NA from the factory. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ban for sure.
Like has been said, don't leave out weight and traction to get you down the 1/4 mile faster.
Ban for sure.
Like has been said, don't leave out weight and traction to get you down the 1/4 mile faster.
03-03-2007, 08:50 AM
#28
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (92blkJDMh22)
I really think that 5th gens are slower than 4th gens for two reasons:
1)4th gens have 15" rims which means smaller gear ratios and faster acceleration
2)it seems to me that 4th gens are a little lower than 5th gens.
SO, I think that if u drag a lowered (good suspension) 5th gen on lightweight 15" rims, then u won't have that "disadvantage" anymore. Just my 2 cents.
-Moh
1)4th gens have 15" rims which means smaller gear ratios and faster acceleration
2)it seems to me that 4th gens are a little lower than 5th gens.
SO, I think that if u drag a lowered (good suspension) 5th gen on lightweight 15" rims, then u won't have that "disadvantage" anymore. Just my 2 cents.
-Moh
03-03-2007, 09:45 AM
#29
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (Hawkze_2.3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ban for sure.
Like has been said, don't leave out weight and traction to get you down the 1/4 mile faster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ban for sure? I was speaking from a practicality point. It's not impossible but it's not easy as slapping on some bolt-ons. You're right though. If I took everything out except for the steering wheel and a driver's seat and did a few bolt-ons; with the right traction I'm sure it would be darn close to those 13's.
Ban for sure.
Like has been said, don't leave out weight and traction to get you down the 1/4 mile faster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ban for sure? I was speaking from a practicality point. It's not impossible but it's not easy as slapping on some bolt-ons. You're right though. If I took everything out except for the steering wheel and a driver's seat and did a few bolt-ons; with the right traction I'm sure it would be darn close to those 13's.
03-03-2007, 09:58 AM
#30
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Annapolis, Maryland, U.S.A.
Posts: 632
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (NAmiata)
I'm going for a 13.9 this season in my BB6. You do not need a crazy build to hit 13.9 and I intend to prove it. I have some M&H 23x8.5x15 slicks mounted on 15x8 Draglites. 
13.9 this season for real!
13.9 this season for real!
03-03-2007, 10:20 AM
#31
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (precisionelite)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by precisionelite »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going for a 13.9 this season in my BB6. You do not need a crazy build to hit 13.9 and I intend to prove it. I have some M&H 23x8.5x15 slicks mounted on 15x8 Draglites.
13.9 this season for real!</TD></TR></TABLE>
What all do you have done to your prelude?
13.9 this season for real!</TD></TR></TABLE>
What all do you have done to your prelude?
03-03-2007, 01:16 PM
#33
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (GoldLudeRay)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoldLudeRay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would think cams and good tunning is needed for 13 seconds</TD></TR></TABLE>
True. One upgrade leads to another. For instance, cams are an excellent answer. To make the most of the cams you should have a port and polish job done to the head. Then if the head is off, your block is exposed and bam! You are looking at the pistons. So you end up taking the block out to have it sleeved. Then you order some higher compression pistons (even type S is okay) to take advantage of the cams that you purchased. Next thing you know, you have a **** load of $$$$ tied up into your Lude. That's what happened to me
For power:
1. Do what is easy. Lose some weight. Take out all of the crap in your trunk (spare tire, jack, etc...). Spending $ to lose weight you can: Buy a CF sunroof plug from lighterfaster.com and save 45 pounds. Then you can get a CF hood and save 35 pounds. Then some 12 pound Rota slipstreams will save you 28 pounds. 15 pound seats x 2 will weigh in at 30 pounds, saving you 42 pounds (oem seat is 36 pounds). Well over 100 pounds, which will help with acceleration (as you have a lighter car). Don't forget to get a light weight battery and put it in your trunk. Oem batteries are ~45 pounds. Race batteries are 12 pounds. Get a 12 pound traction bar from PFIspeed.com and save 13 pounds on the front crossmember.
2. Tires. You need sticky tires in order to put your power to the ground. 215 or 225 width is good. No Kuhmo, falken or Yokahama junk either. Go with BFG KDW in 225 45 16 or Michelin Exalto p/e.
3. I/H/E/tuning. No DC crap. Get a Hytech, RMF, or SMSP. With tuning that will amount to bolting on 15-20whp. But you are looking at $1000.00 and up. Don't fool with a greddy exhaust. Get a 2.5 magnaflow system. Get an ECS (electronic cutout system) from blacktrax performance. I prefer Neptune for tuning but Hondata is another good choice (most people prefer Hondata). Crome is a free program and seems to work. Don't fool with a vtec controller. Don't forget a 70mm BDL throttle body. Get cam gears so you can degree in you power.
4. Suspension. Koni Yellows and Skunk 2 springs will work. Get a progress rear adjustable sway bar. Make sure your ball joints, inner and outer tie rods are in good condition. I personally recommend front and rear upper strut bars. Spoon is the best and most expensive. Neuspeed makes a good strut bar too that attaches to the control arm. Look into a Tanabe front lower tie bar. It kicks ***. Suspension tuning is fun and functional.
5. Matt has excellent advice with his gearing suggestion. Think about a final drive.
As you can see, things get expensive quickly.
True. One upgrade leads to another. For instance, cams are an excellent answer. To make the most of the cams you should have a port and polish job done to the head. Then if the head is off, your block is exposed and bam! You are looking at the pistons. So you end up taking the block out to have it sleeved. Then you order some higher compression pistons (even type S is okay) to take advantage of the cams that you purchased. Next thing you know, you have a **** load of $$$$ tied up into your Lude. That's what happened to me
For power:
1. Do what is easy. Lose some weight. Take out all of the crap in your trunk (spare tire, jack, etc...). Spending $ to lose weight you can: Buy a CF sunroof plug from lighterfaster.com and save 45 pounds. Then you can get a CF hood and save 35 pounds. Then some 12 pound Rota slipstreams will save you 28 pounds. 15 pound seats x 2 will weigh in at 30 pounds, saving you 42 pounds (oem seat is 36 pounds). Well over 100 pounds, which will help with acceleration (as you have a lighter car). Don't forget to get a light weight battery and put it in your trunk. Oem batteries are ~45 pounds. Race batteries are 12 pounds. Get a 12 pound traction bar from PFIspeed.com and save 13 pounds on the front crossmember.
2. Tires. You need sticky tires in order to put your power to the ground. 215 or 225 width is good. No Kuhmo, falken or Yokahama junk either. Go with BFG KDW in 225 45 16 or Michelin Exalto p/e.
3. I/H/E/tuning. No DC crap. Get a Hytech, RMF, or SMSP. With tuning that will amount to bolting on 15-20whp. But you are looking at $1000.00 and up. Don't fool with a greddy exhaust. Get a 2.5 magnaflow system. Get an ECS (electronic cutout system) from blacktrax performance. I prefer Neptune for tuning but Hondata is another good choice (most people prefer Hondata). Crome is a free program and seems to work. Don't fool with a vtec controller. Don't forget a 70mm BDL throttle body. Get cam gears so you can degree in you power.
4. Suspension. Koni Yellows and Skunk 2 springs will work. Get a progress rear adjustable sway bar. Make sure your ball joints, inner and outer tie rods are in good condition. I personally recommend front and rear upper strut bars. Spoon is the best and most expensive. Neuspeed makes a good strut bar too that attaches to the control arm. Look into a Tanabe front lower tie bar. It kicks ***. Suspension tuning is fun and functional.
5. Matt has excellent advice with his gearing suggestion. Think about a final drive.
As you can see, things get expensive quickly.
03-03-2007, 02:52 PM
#35
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 764
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (NAmiata)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hamadiscool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really think that 5th gens are slower than 4th gens for two reasons:
1)4th gens have 15" rims which means smaller gear ratios and faster acceleration
2)it seems to me that 4th gens are a little lower than 5th gens.
SO, I think that if u drag a lowered (good suspension) 5th gen on lightweight 15" rims, then u won't have that "disadvantage" anymore. Just my 2 cents.
-Moh</TD></TR></TABLE>
what is with all the misinformation lately.....just because the rim is smaller doesn't mean the overall diameter of the tire is smaller......the wheels are not what makes the 4th gen quicker
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAmiata »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ban for sure? I was speaking from a practicality point. It's not impossible but it's not easy as slapping on some bolt-ons. You're right though. If I took everything out except for the steering wheel and a driver's seat and did a few bolt-ons; with the right traction I'm sure it would be darn close to those 13's. </TD></TR></TABLE>
regardless of what you were talking about.......go back and look at how you spelled vtec.......07 members-->read more, post less
1)4th gens have 15" rims which means smaller gear ratios and faster acceleration
2)it seems to me that 4th gens are a little lower than 5th gens.
SO, I think that if u drag a lowered (good suspension) 5th gen on lightweight 15" rims, then u won't have that "disadvantage" anymore. Just my 2 cents.
-Moh</TD></TR></TABLE>
what is with all the misinformation lately.....just because the rim is smaller doesn't mean the overall diameter of the tire is smaller......the wheels are not what makes the 4th gen quicker
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAmiata »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ban for sure? I was speaking from a practicality point. It's not impossible but it's not easy as slapping on some bolt-ons. You're right though. If I took everything out except for the steering wheel and a driver's seat and did a few bolt-ons; with the right traction I'm sure it would be darn close to those 13's. </TD></TR></TABLE>
regardless of what you were talking about.......go back and look at how you spelled vtec.......07 members-->read more, post less
03-03-2007, 03:06 PM
#36
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: london, lambeth, england
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well a guy here in the uk dd a 14.01 at the track in front of my eyes.
His car:
JDM bb4
I/H/E
Spoon copy chip
Lightweight flywheel
Interior stripped only bucket seat left in
Koni with eibach springs
and 17s
Even when he messed up the start he got 14.2!!!!!
I swear to god he has a freak car!
His car:
JDM bb4
I/H/E
Spoon copy chip
Lightweight flywheel
Interior stripped only bucket seat left in
Koni with eibach springs
and 17s
Even when he messed up the start he got 14.2!!!!!
I swear to god he has a freak car!
03-03-2007, 03:41 PM
#37
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Louisiana, US
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (Nismo180)
Nice well rounded recommendations.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xiaogou »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
True. One upgrade leads to another. For instance, cams are an excellent answer. To make the most of the cams you should have a port and polish job done to the head. Then if the head is off, your block is exposed and bam! You are looking at the pistons. So you end up taking the block out to have it sleeved. Then you order some higher compression pistons (even type S is okay) to take advantage of the cams that you purchased. Next thing you know, you have a **** load of $$$$ tied up into your Lude. That's what happened to me
For power:
1. Do what is easy. Lose some weight. Take out all of the crap in your trunk (spare tire, jack, etc...). Spending $ to lose weight you can: Buy a CF sunroof plug from lighterfaster.com and save 45 pounds. Then you can get a CF hood and save 35 pounds. Then some 12 pound Rota slipstreams will save you 28 pounds. 15 pound seats x 2 will weigh in at 30 pounds, saving you 42 pounds (oem seat is 36 pounds). Well over 100 pounds, which will help with acceleration (as you have a lighter car). Don't forget to get a light weight battery and put it in your trunk. Oem batteries are ~45 pounds. Race batteries are 12 pounds. Get a 12 pound traction bar from PFIspeed.com and save 13 pounds on the front crossmember.
2. Tires. You need sticky tires in order to put your power to the ground. 215 or 225 width is good. No Kuhmo, falken or Yokahama junk either. Go with BFG KDW in 225 45 16 or Michelin Exalto p/e.
3. I/H/E/tuning. No DC crap. Get a Hytech, RMF, or SMSP. With tuning that will amount to bolting on 15-20whp. But you are looking at $1000.00 and up. Don't fool with a greddy exhaust. Get a 2.5 magnaflow system. Get an ECS (electronic cutout system) from blacktrax performance. I prefer Neptune for tuning but Hondata is another good choice (most people prefer Hondata). Crome is a free program and seems to work. Don't fool with a vtec controller. Don't forget a 70mm BDL throttle body. Get cam gears so you can degree in you power.
4. Suspension. Koni Yellows and Skunk 2 springs will work. Get a progress rear adjustable sway bar. Make sure your ball joints, inner and outer tie rods are in good condition. I personally recommend front and rear upper strut bars. Spoon is the best and most expensive. Neuspeed makes a good strut bar too that attaches to the control arm. Look into a Tanabe front lower tie bar. It kicks ***. Suspension tuning is fun and functional.
5. Matt has excellent advice with his gearing suggestion. Think about a final drive.
As you can see, things get expensive quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xiaogou »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
True. One upgrade leads to another. For instance, cams are an excellent answer. To make the most of the cams you should have a port and polish job done to the head. Then if the head is off, your block is exposed and bam! You are looking at the pistons. So you end up taking the block out to have it sleeved. Then you order some higher compression pistons (even type S is okay) to take advantage of the cams that you purchased. Next thing you know, you have a **** load of $$$$ tied up into your Lude. That's what happened to me
For power:
1. Do what is easy. Lose some weight. Take out all of the crap in your trunk (spare tire, jack, etc...). Spending $ to lose weight you can: Buy a CF sunroof plug from lighterfaster.com and save 45 pounds. Then you can get a CF hood and save 35 pounds. Then some 12 pound Rota slipstreams will save you 28 pounds. 15 pound seats x 2 will weigh in at 30 pounds, saving you 42 pounds (oem seat is 36 pounds). Well over 100 pounds, which will help with acceleration (as you have a lighter car). Don't forget to get a light weight battery and put it in your trunk. Oem batteries are ~45 pounds. Race batteries are 12 pounds. Get a 12 pound traction bar from PFIspeed.com and save 13 pounds on the front crossmember.
2. Tires. You need sticky tires in order to put your power to the ground. 215 or 225 width is good. No Kuhmo, falken or Yokahama junk either. Go with BFG KDW in 225 45 16 or Michelin Exalto p/e.
3. I/H/E/tuning. No DC crap. Get a Hytech, RMF, or SMSP. With tuning that will amount to bolting on 15-20whp. But you are looking at $1000.00 and up. Don't fool with a greddy exhaust. Get a 2.5 magnaflow system. Get an ECS (electronic cutout system) from blacktrax performance. I prefer Neptune for tuning but Hondata is another good choice (most people prefer Hondata). Crome is a free program and seems to work. Don't fool with a vtec controller. Don't forget a 70mm BDL throttle body. Get cam gears so you can degree in you power.
4. Suspension. Koni Yellows and Skunk 2 springs will work. Get a progress rear adjustable sway bar. Make sure your ball joints, inner and outer tie rods are in good condition. I personally recommend front and rear upper strut bars. Spoon is the best and most expensive. Neuspeed makes a good strut bar too that attaches to the control arm. Look into a Tanabe front lower tie bar. It kicks ***. Suspension tuning is fun and functional.
5. Matt has excellent advice with his gearing suggestion. Think about a final drive.
As you can see, things get expensive quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
03-03-2007, 04:11 PM
#38
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: On the Prowl, Mo
Posts: 5,391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (hamadiscool)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hamadiscool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a link to a 5th gen that ran 13.52 in the quarter mile:
pics and info
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/660842
Video running 13's
http://www.blacktrax.net/CMI6-26-05.html
He sold his lude already but he is my inspiration!
-Moh</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a nice run, you have to factor in an elevation of 25ft abouve sea level
as well though
pics and info
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/660842
Video running 13's
http://www.blacktrax.net/CMI6-26-05.html
He sold his lude already but he is my inspiration!
-Moh</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a nice run, you have to factor in an elevation of 25ft abouve sea level
as well though
03-03-2007, 04:14 PM
#39
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (Nismo180)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nismo180 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ZOMG if you lowered your fifth gen it'd be as fast as 4th gens.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, there is a reason why the 5th gen is slower than the 4th and it is NOT weight; so i was just thinking of reasons why it is and aerodynamics is one of them. If a car sits lower than the other, than it usually produces less air friction meaning BETTER acceleration than stock...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silver Surfer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what is with all the misinformation lately.....just because the rim is smaller doesn't mean the overall diameter of the tire is smaller......the wheels are not what makes the 4th gen quicker
</TD></TR></TABLE>
4th gen wheel: 15" 205 width 55 profile
5th gen wheel: 16" 205 width 50 profile
so the overall height of the wheels are the following:
4th gen: 23.87 in
5th gen: 24.07 in
I used this website to calculate the wheel size:
http://www.1010tires.com/TireS...ubmit
Every little thing counts man and these are just the reasons that I THINK why 5th gens are slower than 4th gens. Since there isn't any proof out there as to why 5th gens are slower than 4th gens, I could be right....
Good luck to the OP with his goal, I am gonna be at it too.
-Moh
ZOMG if you lowered your fifth gen it'd be as fast as 4th gens.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, there is a reason why the 5th gen is slower than the 4th and it is NOT weight; so i was just thinking of reasons why it is and aerodynamics is one of them. If a car sits lower than the other, than it usually produces less air friction meaning BETTER acceleration than stock...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silver Surfer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what is with all the misinformation lately.....just because the rim is smaller doesn't mean the overall diameter of the tire is smaller......the wheels are not what makes the 4th gen quicker
</TD></TR></TABLE>
4th gen wheel: 15" 205 width 55 profile
5th gen wheel: 16" 205 width 50 profile
so the overall height of the wheels are the following:
4th gen: 23.87 in
5th gen: 24.07 in
I used this website to calculate the wheel size:
http://www.1010tires.com/TireS...ubmit
Every little thing counts man and these are just the reasons that I THINK why 5th gens are slower than 4th gens. Since there isn't any proof out there as to why 5th gens are slower than 4th gens, I could be right....
Good luck to the OP with his goal, I am gonna be at it too.
-Moh
03-03-2007, 04:34 PM
#40
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Posts: 10,629
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (NAmiata)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAmiata »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ban for sure? I was speaking from a practicality point. It's not impossible but it's not easy as slapping on some bolt-ons. You're right though. If I took everything out except for the steering wheel and a driver's seat and did a few bolt-ons; with the right traction I'm sure it would be darn close to those 13's. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ban because you talk like you know everything and then you spell VTEC with an H and lower case letters, then make a broad generalization about all 'vtechs'.
Ban for sure? I was speaking from a practicality point. It's not impossible but it's not easy as slapping on some bolt-ons. You're right though. If I took everything out except for the steering wheel and a driver's seat and did a few bolt-ons; with the right traction I'm sure it would be darn close to those 13's. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ban because you talk like you know everything and then you spell VTEC with an H and lower case letters, then make a broad generalization about all 'vtechs'.
03-03-2007, 05:11 PM
#41
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners
haha this is my goal as well for this year, After my SMSP get in and I tune it I'll be losing weight, if you want to get really hardcore about it, you can freeze off the sound deadening material from under the car, also look into a CF trunk our trunks are kinda heavy without those helper springs.
EDIT: oh yeah I forgot, maybe look into getting a Euro-R or the M2B4 tranny they help with the shorter gearing.
EDIT: oh yeah I forgot, maybe look into getting a Euro-R or the M2B4 tranny they help with the shorter gearing.
...The OP doesn't check this thread often so double saddies
03-03-2007, 06:09 PM
#43
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 764
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (hamadiscool)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hamadiscool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so the overall height of the wheels are the following:
4th gen: 23.87 in
5th gen: 24.07 in
Every little thing counts man and these are just the reasons that I THINK why 5th gens are slower than 4th gens. Since there isn't any proof out there as to why 5th gens are slower than 4th gens, I could be right....
-Moh </TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG 0.8%
i understand everything counts but this really isn't something that even matters
if you are gonna go into specifics why not talk about the extra quoted 5hp from the factory on a 5th gen
the 4th gen is not that much faster, so if we are talking about anything more than e-racing, then what's point? every car is gonna be different at every track on any given day
and this fool that just said the M2B4 has shorter gearing obiviously hasn't read the FAQs, but the lsd will help so maybe that is what he "ment"
so the overall height of the wheels are the following:
4th gen: 23.87 in
5th gen: 24.07 in
Every little thing counts man and these are just the reasons that I THINK why 5th gens are slower than 4th gens. Since there isn't any proof out there as to why 5th gens are slower than 4th gens, I could be right....
-Moh </TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG 0.8%
i understand everything counts but this really isn't something that even matters
if you are gonna go into specifics why not talk about the extra quoted 5hp from the factory on a 5th gen
the 4th gen is not that much faster, so if we are talking about anything more than e-racing, then what's point? every car is gonna be different at every track on any given day
and this fool that just said the M2B4 has shorter gearing obiviously hasn't read the FAQs, but the lsd will help so maybe that is what he "ment"
03-03-2007, 06:32 PM
#44
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (Silver Surfer)
I am not gonna argue anymore but I just have one last thing to say, smaller wheels also mean less rotational mass.
I was just trying to get at the point that he should get lighter and smaller wheels. Something like 15" 205 width (or 215) and 50 profile. So that would be for best acceleration on the track.
-Moh
I was just trying to get at the point that he should get lighter and smaller wheels. Something like 15" 205 width (or 215) and 50 profile. So that would be for best acceleration on the track.
-Moh
03-03-2007, 08:33 PM
#45
moderator emeritus
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (hamadiscool)
alot of people who dont know my car wonder why its so quick. Then they realize i have done alot of weight reduction and GOOD modifications. function > form
some of you guys need to learn how to post a little less like your a pissed of ***** with his head cut off.
we'll see what kinda times i can run with my stock motor once i get the traction bar and other lightweight goodies. I have a feeling that if i could just get this bitch off the line at the track and keep it from spinning the tires through 2nd i could get deep into the 14's.
I'm running with a few cars around here on my current setup that have ran 14.2-14.4
I'll be making sure i break well into the 13's with the new motor
some of you guys need to learn how to post a little less like your a pissed of ***** with his head cut off.
we'll see what kinda times i can run with my stock motor once i get the traction bar and other lightweight goodies. I have a feeling that if i could just get this bitch off the line at the track and keep it from spinning the tires through 2nd i could get deep into the 14's.
I'm running with a few cars around here on my current setup that have ran 14.2-14.4
I'll be making sure i break well into the 13's with the new motor
03-03-2007, 08:42 PM
#46
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 764
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (hamadiscool)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hamadiscool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am not gonna argue anymore but I just have one last thing to say, smaller wheels also mean less rotational mass.
I was just trying to get at the point that he should get lighter and smaller wheels. Something like 15" 205 width (or 215) and 50 profile. So that would be for best acceleration on the track.
-Moh</TD></TR></TABLE>
you know what else that would be good for?
putting extra miles on his odometer that aren't being driven
throwing off his speedo for daily driving
lowering top speed
decreasing gas mileage
reducing sizewall flex on launch, increasing chance of wheelspin
and any wheel that is street driven is not going to be light enough to make much of a difference on the track......why, cause i've done it.....are we done racing in theory and on paper now?
but if you were reading earlier when the final drive was suggested, you are basically creating the same effect.
if you are going to post on a subject, stop and think about weither or not your post is going to contribute something with technical merit, and then make sure you have a good understanding of the subject...
If your post includes
I think
possibly
my opinion
etc
don't post it in a tech forum
I was just trying to get at the point that he should get lighter and smaller wheels. Something like 15" 205 width (or 215) and 50 profile. So that would be for best acceleration on the track.
-Moh</TD></TR></TABLE>
you know what else that would be good for?
putting extra miles on his odometer that aren't being driven
throwing off his speedo for daily driving
lowering top speed
decreasing gas mileage
reducing sizewall flex on launch, increasing chance of wheelspin
and any wheel that is street driven is not going to be light enough to make much of a difference on the track......why, cause i've done it.....are we done racing in theory and on paper now?
but if you were reading earlier when the final drive was suggested, you are basically creating the same effect.
if you are going to post on a subject, stop and think about weither or not your post is going to contribute something with technical merit, and then make sure you have a good understanding of the subject...
If your post includes
I think
possibly
my opinion
etc
don't post it in a tech forum
03-03-2007, 09:39 PM
#47
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (Silver Surfer)
you do know the M2B4 does have a shorter 2nd and 5th gear right then a stock USDM 5th gen tranny as well as LSD
but the Euro-R and the M2z4 do have the best ratios out of all the trannys for the H22.
but the Euro-R and the M2z4 do have the best ratios out of all the trannys for the H22.
03-04-2007, 03:15 AM
#49
Re: All N/A 13 Second Owners (98vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alot of people who dont know my car wonder why its so quick. Then they realize i have done alot of weight reduction and GOOD modifications. function > form
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Couldnt agree more with you.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Couldnt agree more with you.
