laviathan222

Hi. I have a 1995 Honda Prelude Si that was born with an H23 Had a heart transplant to an H22A4 which inevitably broke a rod, and now has had another surgery and contains an F22B2 from a 1996 Honda Accord. Now I have swapped a 1991 Accord motor into a prelude before with 0 issues, aside from a blown fuse that resulted in no spark. Anyways back to the current project and issue. I am attempting, I say attempting because I am not sure if it will work. But attempting to use the H23 Ecu from my first Lude swap cause well 95 is OBD1 and 96 is OBD2 in addition to having to convert to OBD2 the accord ECU is an Auto.I would assume the H23 Ecu would be fine just run rich? Another bummer in this project is the guy who I inherited it from didn't have the Accord Engine harness so I've tried to make the H22 one work. Which everything plugged in to the appropriate sensors. just had a few plugs left over on the harness (Vtec and knock sensor i believe). I had to take the internals from the H22 Dizzy and put them inside the Accord dizzy due to the fact I couldn't get any spark. Accord Dizzy was a 2 pin plug and a 4 pin plug. H22 dizzy was a 2 pin plug and 8 pin plug both external coil. Easy just swapped the internals, then god said let there be spark and BAM! Spark was attained. This led me to no start still so I pulled the fuel rail and discovered something odd. With the injectors still in the rail I had the girlfriend turn over the car, initially all 4 fired at the same time, then I would get what appears to be consistent fuel spurts on Cylinder 1 and cylinder 3 got like one spurt out of roughly 5-10 seconds of turning the car over. Cylinders 2 and 4 got no fuel aside from the initial spurt it gave when they all fired at the same time. I tested several times the only change was sometimes that initial all 4 injector spurt was non existent. So I've boiled it down to me only getting consistent fuel on cylinder 1. How could this be? And yes I have good fuel pressure.

holmesnmanny

All you needed to do was get an obd1(94-95) b2 ecu along with its distributor and it would be plug and play.

If you try using the h23a1 ecu you will need to do the knock sensor trick in order to avoid limp mode.

laviathan222

Will the Knock sensor trick allow me to get consistent fuel on all 4 cylinders? I dont really have the cash to get ahold of a 94-95 Ecu or a Distributor. Is there any way to make it work without?

holmesnmanny

If you have a junkyard nearby you will find an ecu dirt cheap there. If you haven't changed your existing distributor harness you should be able to get it to work fine. Just grab the distributor as well.

laviathan222

Perfect I spent the $60 got an Ecu and Dizzy. Now it runs. But I'm having another issue. I filled up with coolant and noticed there was some gas in there. Thinking maybe it got there from excessive unburnt fuel from when I tried starting it. Turns out the guy hooked up a fuel line to a coolant line. Looks like the H22/H23 has a secondary fuel line that goes underneath the car on the driver side/middle. Fuel return or what? Now the F22B2 has an additional coolant line that I can't seem to find a line to hook up to it. It is in the middle right underneath the intake manifold. It is smaller because the fuel line fit on it I have both heater hoses hooked up and both radiator hoses hooked up where does this mysterious 5th line from the head or block go. Also the F22 doesn't have that secondary fuel line on the fuel rail just vacuum to the FPR then another line from the FPR that goes to the IACV then to the throttle body. I will post pictures of the lines I'm talking about in a few minutes

laviathan222

I put 2 and 2 together coolant flows through IACV so ran the line from the FPR that went to the IACV. From the IACV to the smaller coolant output under the intake Manifold. Then fuel line to the FPR. Now my next question is clearly there is coolant in my gas lines and gas in my coolant lines. What is the best remedy to this problem.

98vtec

coolant flows through the IACV only to keep it from freezing, same with the thermo valve on the throttle body. at no time should the fuel system be linked to anything related to coolant. the FPR is not connected to the IACV. it gets vacuum from the intake manifold via the small nipple on the front driver side of the intake plenum. there should only be two connections to the FPR. vacuum and a fuel return line to the tank.

the coolant loop for the IACV and thermovalve comes from the front of the thermostat housing, to the thermo valve, then to the iacv and then back to the back side of the thermostat housing.

take pictures of what you are working with. they speak volumes, often.