jimmy o.

Ok I'm not surprised that it don't idle what Honda does but this thing just cranks up and starts reving to like 5000 tb is closed replaced iacv with a new one still running the stock p13 or p14 which ever one is non vtec I told my gf just to get the h22 but no I want the one with pretty blue vc. Lmao


I'm using h23a1 dizzy
And coolant pipe on the front from the old motor
And several other parts from the old motor

I don't have any idea what to do anyone do this swap with any success?

Throwing codes for crankshaft sensor tps and iacv and the tps in new and in spec

jdm_rb20

Check all vacuums (especially at the Intake manifold). Check the coolant lines running to IACV, etc. Check that the TPS is properly operating and calibrated to .45ish (me thinks). If all that is DOUBLE-checked to be good, then move on to properly setting the base-idle.

Report changes after completed.

jimmy o.

The coolant lines are ran but I have no idea if I ran em right there is no info on swapping these into 4th gen cars just 5th gens

Tps is definitely in spec

If the iacv is unplugged in drops down but still.fluctuates

She had it put in shop after I got it dropped in but they couldnt figure it out either

ESP.net

Crankshaft sensor? doesnt have one either old motor or blue top h23

Your stock P14 H23 NoN Vtec ecu will just mess everything up don't run that! Need the right ECU. Switch that first.

Shouldnt have a code for that... Check distributor wiring...
You will need 92-95 OBD1 Vtec P13 ecu.... Or will need P28 with chip for H23A Vtec base map, neptune or crome... roughly $150 from pherable or xenocron

jimmy o.

Its running a phearable.net ecu same problem

Marty Mercurio

Wafts the problem.

jdm_rb20

who's on first?? j/k...the original post states that it idles way up at 5000 rpms.

So.....if you unplug the iacv, it idles at a normal level "but fluctuates"...or does it still idle way too high?

mherkamp

With intake connection removed from throttle body and iacv unplugged, put your finger over each of the holes in front of the throttle plate in turn. If its like the other TB's of the time, the Fast Idle Thermo Valve, (FITV) can be a problem. It works on the temp of your coolant and is mechanical so only way to disable it is a block-off plate. IMO you don't need it in winter and I am from Indiana.
GL
Mike

jimmy o.

Well I give up the motor is going back this was waste of time and never buy an h23vtec

holmesnmanny

I didn't even realize a motor could rev that high without the throttle plate opened up. I'd check that first, maybe it's stuck open.

jimmy o.

If only that was the case...its not I've already checked everything the h23a1 is going back in

jimmy o.

And for some reason the tach dosent work

bairdandrew77

If you didn't take it back yet, you should really spray carb cleaner around the intake manifold to look for a leak.
My h23a blue top did the same thing, revving up to 5k rpm, and it was just because I did a terrible job replacing the intake manifold gasket.
So I'd really recommend you check that before taking it back.

Cannon Man

Definitely sounds like user error. I wouldn't be surprised if you swapped the motor back and still had an issue. The fact that you thought it would be ok to run a non VTEC ecu at all only verifies this. If you're using the stock H23A IM then the IACV is a 3 wire instead of 2 and bare minimum run a P13 ecu. I suggest you find a write up for converting and OBDII H series to OBDI and cross check if you did all those steps. Also check, double check and triple check your vac lines. Simple mistakes can and do happen a lot. Don't give up on the H, you'll love it in the end. Cheers

jimmy o.

Iacv is two wire and we've already bought a new one re gasketed the intake I read that if the ecm isnt getting rpm signal that the iacv will compensate by opening up all the way seeing as there's no rpm change cause when I unplug the iacv it idled down real low and bounces. And my tach dosent work it worked before the swap. I'm running it on a phearable ecu its runs the sane on either ecu.

jimmy o.

Throwing codes 8 14 20 22 and 36 I guess its a jdm ecu

Cannon Man

Well the codes you're getting and the tach not working sound very similar to problems that 6G accord guys have when they H swap and have to hack and extend the harness so I'd check all the connections and grounds for batt and harness just in case. Also which injectors are you using? H23a1 w resistor box, H23A no box? The A1 aren't upto the task and the H23A ones are peak and hold (I believe) and would have to be grounded to work. The ecu isnt infallible either so see if you can swap a stock P13 and see what happens. And side note: was the car wired for VTEC? You'd see the green/yellow wire on the pass fender unconnected if it was and nothing there if it isn't. And again, double check that you correctly converted the motor to OBDI in case that has something to do with your situation

Cannon Man

Yup code 36, dead giveaway. And VTEC like I said as well. For VTEC you just have to run a couple wires and a ground, there are plenty of write ups to explain how. It's more than likely a simple fix so check all your work and try to track it down. BTW It would be hard for a shop to diagnose the prob if they don't know what was done right or wrong in the first place.

jimmy o.

Already wired up vtec. Using the stock si injectors I'm aware there lower fuel flow but that should have nothing to do with this issue its chipped to run them anyway

Cannon Man

I'm convinced there must be a root problem if you're getting all those codes. The ECU is OBDI correct? All those codes point to dizzy and crank pulley wiring which are conveniently the main difference between OBDI and OBDII harnesses. If you're near the 626 I have a P13 you could troubleshoot with

Eze209

I was having the same problem when i swapped a h23a blue top into a crx that had a h22a4...It was reving like crazy to 5k...

turned out it was leaking from the intake manifold gasket, i guess my friend didn't clean up the old gasket and there were huge amounts still left on it, maybe u have same problem...all i did was to cover throttle with hand so no air wld go in and car keep on like that, so obious leak

Cannon Man

^And you were throwing the same or similar codes as well?

Eze209

Im not sure on codes, but it was throwing check engine light, but never checked what #s they were since we figured it was a leak

jimmy o.

Intake manifold is warped by the egr port I had to use a fog machine to find it when I saw where it was coming from it bacame obvious I've never seen this issue on any Honda engine all the code except 20 are no longer present

Katie Mach

I did a obd2 h23a vtec blue top into a complete obd1 92 prelude 5sp. I run all obd1 but I have msd sci/coil/distributor/plugs. Aftermarket fuel rails/rc injectors/aem cold air intake and vms regulator and a 255 fuel pump. I have an aftermarket oil psi gauge and run a p13. Runs perfect but has a cel. And aftermarket exhaust. Del balance shaft