Siegfried

I also had this problem, and and bought another gauge to fix it.
I know you can recondition the one you buy to fix your burnt one,
but that would be a temporary fix too before something else burn on the old gauge no ?
Is there a way to replace the fuel gauge with an aftermarket one, as it would be brand new that would be a better thing to do, nobody ever did that ?

mr_y82

buying used/junked is a gamble, as stated by some here... you may get lucky for a while, but that's about it

I think it is expensive as **** to get an aftermarket gauge installed... better off using the link on the previous page to get it fixed/upgraded... If I don't find a killer deal on a used/junked one soon I'm dropping the $200 on fixing mine in hopes I don't have the problem again..

luder231

PLEASE POINT ME TO YOUR $45 SOURCE FOR DIGITAL CLUSTER..
THANKS

Acidcrakker

I got a brand new 52 mm gauge for sale. Its 50 bucks. It is the correct gauge for the lude

james94prelude

I need a gas and temp gauge some hook me up. And also im wanting to put an after market gas and temp gauge what r the wires for each

Jo3tek

I had the same problem when i bought my car a few days ago. i took it apart to see whats the problem and to find out, the capacitors and resistors leaked. so it went Poof!. so im currently hoping i can order some new ones and solder them back in. hopefully it'll work. i researched around also and it seem its a common problem

1234driver

please - those of y'all out on this post - "blown cluster..." 'fuel gauge replacement.." smoke from under dash..now low fuel sensors don't work..." please please post a link to a source for a replacement part...

thanks

Brady Ramsey

Still available? I need one

elveeeerr

is this still available? i need one

1992BB2

Just fix yours. The capacitors going out are usually the culprit. Replace them and repair any damage done to the tracks on the board. C1, C2, and C7 are the offenders.

egebhardt

Did this work?
For the record these are the 3 capacitors he is referring to. Like others have stated above, I am NOT going to the junkyard only to find the same problem.
C1 is 220mf and 25v
C2 is 22mf and 25v
C7 is 330mf and 10v

I know a lot of guys say, 'just put in a new capacitor'. Frankly, just finding the correct capacitor is 1/2 the battle. They aren't at Safeway or Target!

SuperSlowH22

marsea

Did you solve this issue? My 92 temp and fuel gauge would barely be visible when first starting up then it would dim to nothing. Some times would get a bunch of weird red lines through it.

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SuperSlowH22

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chicago8

You can see the burn spot on the lower left corner! The part shows a T I believe for Toshiba! Then it shows a D1052a The 2a i believe is 2 AMP then it shows a 1k at the bottom. I'm trying to figure out where you get this part at!
I'm 90 percent sure its the transistor!!! Please text me so we can carry this over to the fscebook page so we can keep up with this better. Thanks mike. 7315892211..... I'm working on 2 clusters as we speak.

chicago8

Here is better pics!

Here is where the part is suppose to go. As you can see its burned up. Both of my boards are like this!
Here is the part. It shows T D1052A 1K

Tachi

If it is purely a transistor/fet/mosfet and not a voltage regulator I think any FET wold work. This is the only place I know to get one, but all it is is a high amp current gate. International Rectifier IRLR8726TRLPBF N Channel MOSFET - DPAK-2

Mykizism

Nice thread, looks like the OP sold his car?

SuperSlowH22

Great information and pictures. I have a local electronics store in my area that might be able to help sort out or match what is needed. I would think that as long as it’s a “functional replacement” it doesn’t have to be exactly the same part (I.e. minus attachment points, resistance, voltage, etc) there may be some new school capacitors and/or parts that very well can take its place I would imagine. Moreover, there are many other “Golden years” Honda’s out there that will start having these types of issues in the gauges and clusters and I can tell you Honda is going to keep discontinuing parts the further all the Golden year cars get into “classic” status.... I mean, my 4th gen is 25 years old and more fun to drive now then when I first bought it almost 18 years ago.... We don’t have a good aftermarket supplier yet for us like classic cars/trucks of other makes, so this one needs to get solved IMO as it seems to be the same part/area on most of the failures on the gauge.

1992BB2

You should be able to order the capacitors online at a lot of places. Make sure that the capacitance is the same (the µF printed on the capacitor), and that the voltage is at least the number printed on the capacitor. (Example: 10v cap can be replaced with a 15v).

MalySmok

Hi,. This od transistor, Simple NPN. 2SD1052

No FET or voltage regulatorRegards

Send Ludes

This problem happened to me about a year ago in my 92 Si. If your car has an old after market alarm system it most likely killed the cluster. I took out the alarm system and made sure to test for resistance across my wires to see if I had a break anywhere and then repalced my cluster. It's been working since.

gsond

Keeping this alive for 2021. 95’ still goin, but **** it took me forever to find this. Did taking out the burned transistor and replacing it work? I’m doing that now

Send Ludes

I didn't take out the transitor because I just replaced the whole thing due to time but that could work as long as nothing else is damaged.

gsond

I think it is. I checked all the fuses I thought it may be, the clock, dummy lights, and tach all still work perfectly. It seems from what I can tell (first truck was a 1960 f-100, and it taught me a lot, but mechanically still a noob) that it’s all a local power source that splits 3 ways from the fuse. So that tells me power supply is solid and ground is good.

do you by any chance have a reference video for taking out the alarm system properly? Some bloke put 2 12”‘s in the trunk, and I think that may have aided in blowing the board. The more I think about it as I write this…he probably used the alarm wire for amp power.