itr501

What steps should be taken to take a bike which has been stored for 3 years out of storage, given it was never stored properly? The fuel wasn't stabilized, carbs weren't drained, etc.. However, the bike was in perfect condition before storage. This is what I'm thinking so far.

new battery, spark plugs, oil change, air filter, and seafoam.

Any suggestions?

nerdish

I'm sure some other people could better answer your question.. but I think there's gonna be quite a bit added to that list.

For one, I think your carbs might be fucked up. However, I'll let the people who know what they're talking about takeover.

meept

You will definitely need the carbs cleaned, and that requires removing them. It's probably easiest to farm that out to a shop unless you're pretty familiar with motorcycle carbs. Synchronizing them when they're reinstalled is a good idea too. You'll also want to change the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, plugs, and air cleaner. Cleaning and lubing the chain wouldn't be a bad idea while you're waiting for the carbs to come back from the shop. Also, drain off the fuel left in the tank, and fill it up with new fuel.

Been there, done all that before. It's elementary stuff, except for the carb work.

1.6el

Might as well change the coolant and brake fluid while you're at it. Next time store it right and you'll have alot less to worry about. Good luck.

tonydatyga

Carbs need to be torn down and rebuilt w/ a carb sync during reinstall. Oil needs to be changed and maybe even "flushed" w/ a quart of cheap crap oil. Oil filter. Plugs can be cleaned, regapped and reinstalled w/ a thin coat of antiseize or just plain replaced. Brake system should be bled and I suggest flushed all together. A lot of times during storage the system loses its vacuum and you get moisture. That kills brake fluids ability to do its job correctly. Tires should be checked for dry rot and air pressure and if possible slow cycled the first time they are ridden on. Three years is well past the recommended tire change interval on an active bike. Don't be cheap here. Not as common on bikes as on cars but a parked bike may leave a slight flat spot. You'll know it as soon as you get up to speed if there is one. You need to siphon off as much bad gas as possible and fill up w/ new. A fuel system cleaner/additive will definetely help and the engine needs to be cranked over for awhile to clear the chamber and burn anything left that will burn. Before you start the engine check the muffler for signs of life b/c it smells and sounds terrible when living things burn to death. Also the muffler may need to be repacked, you judge for yourself. It would be nice to drain, flush and refill the coolant system and a nice pressure wash would do nicely to clean any debris off of the radiator fins. Check all the levers/cables to see that they dont bind and move freely. Check steering lock to lcok while testing controls. Lock brakes and drag wheels to check that the brakes are not affected by either the fluid, leak in system, or hardware(caliper, rotors, pads) and that they do in fact lock up the wheels. Other than that I can't really think of anything except take care when first starting up. It may crank for a long time and when it does light up, anything behind the tailpipe may be burned badly. Flooded chambers + extended cranking + backfire = trouble for the buddy standing behind the bike. Trust me on that one.

Luke

Had my Blade locked up fpr a while and I rec. all the above.

The carbs may or may not need attention?? Alot of people make a big deal about them but as long as they have been drained down before storage all will be well. Throw the gas away, it will be crap. Always drain the tank and run some oil around it before storage.
Change the brake fluid and engine oil without question. Also vheck the lines if they are still stock rubber itmes. With the coolant remove the bottom hose and pour in normal tap water to flush it through. Use a 50/50 AF mix to re-fill.
Tyres. If is has been on stands then maybe they wil be ok. But, 9/10 not. Check for cracks and colour. If the tyre's have a blue tinge then the oil in the rubber has gone awol and the tyre will not heat up evenly. Better to bin them.
Fork seals shold be checked and be careful when you start hooning it around that the rear shock doesnt go pop. Before you start it stick some clean oil down the barrels and with the plugs out crank it over for a bit. In fact wire it to a car battery, much easier.
Thats all. Have fun.


[Modified by luke, 10:10 PM 9/1/2002]

tonydatyga

Luke brings up a good point about the fork seals and oil. I didn't think of it at the time. Also cranking the engine w/o plugs is a good safe way to clear the chambers. I usually just disconnect the wires unless I'm checking on the plugs/replacing them. I've seen people use a 12v automotive battery to crank the engine just b/c it holds a great deal more amps and you usually can count the original battery on the bike to be weak if holding any charge at all.