i_VTEC

I'm going to do an oil change on my 93 CBR F2 tomorrow and I had a couple of questions.

1. Which type of oil should I use? 10W-40? Which brand? Synthetic or not? I heard synthetic can cause your bike to leak oil because there is something in the synthetic oil that will break down all of the build-up and what-not...(Problem is, I don't know if the previous owner used synthetic or not) =(

2. Which oil filter do you recommend? (I know OEM Is the way to go but the nearest Honda shop is quite a ways from me. So I was hoping to purchase the oil and oil filter at a local Kragens/Autozone or Walmart. I actually heard that the Supertech ST7317 oil filter works very well and it's only about 2 bucks! I read it on this website...

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html Scroll down to #5

3. How much oil does the 93 F2 take? with a new oil filter?


Those are the questions I would absolutely love to have answered before I do my oil change tomorrow morning... Now with that being said, Would anyone be so kind as to walk me through a complete oil change on my motorcycle? Like I said, I'm a noob on bikes but I just want to make sure I do it correctly the first time for future reference. Thanks again Honda-tech for all the great help!

slm

Yeah, its up to you on the syn or not debate I'd say its not worth the cost on such an old bike. I'd avoid 10w40 as it loses its viscosity (can go down to 10w20 in thousand miles or so). I'd go with 20w50 or 15w40. Sometimes I use motorcycle specific oil, sometimes not. Abuse kills the clutchh not oil. I have used supertechs before without issue as well as frams and STPs. I'm not paying 12 bucks for the factory filter. Your bike should take just under three quarts.

The Hooligan

1. ive done alot of research on oil and filters on my car and bike through the years so ill tell ya what i do for my cbr and you can take it as you like.

ive read all the oil tests and breakdowns, regular 10-40 motorcycle oil breakdowns at 2000 miles and thats with easy riding and commuting. i used to use the regular honda gn-4 motorcycle oil and would do 3k oil changes but its really only good till about 2k miles.

im pretty cheap, but when it comes to maintenance i usually go all out. so i switched to synthetic and ill never go back to regular oil in my bikes. amsoil got rated #1 and ive seen the test, it last for 5k miles in a highstrung 600rr, so you would get 5k miles no problem in a f2.

others that were top rated are mobil 1 and motul synthetic. repsol is decent but cost the most.

my list would go,

1. amsoil
2. motul
3. mobil 1

now with filters, i run the scotts stainless filter thats recleanable and it lifetime. at $100 its expensive but if you plan on keeeping your bike for a while its worth it. plus its keeping your engine alot cleaner, and less trash in the dump if your environmental at all.

but when i was using the filters on that website i had my list in order.

#1 dont use fram or oem filters, as there made by fram anyway.
they can fall apart, the cardboard can pull out.

2. the best filter out of all them is the bosch 3300 which you can get at autozone for 6 bucks. thats my top rated filter. its actually the same as the mobil 108 filter but half the price. the supertech isnt bad either and its the cheapest.

my recommendations are

1. get the bosch 3300 filter at autozonen if they dont have it, get the supertech at walmart

2. go with amsoil, but its hard to find it, some motorcycle dealers carry it, if not, go to walmart and get mobil 1.

your gonna spend about 30 bucks for an oil change and can do 4-5 k miles on it no problem. guessing off the top of my head your bike will take 3.7 quarts of oil for the change but what i usually do is.

change the filter and put in 3 quarts of oil, start it up for 2 minutes, turn it back off and keep adding 2-3 ounces at a time until your at the right level in the view window. you should be able to find the correct amount online or your manual if you really wanna know. my guess would be 3.5 - 3.7 quarts.

i_VTEC

Great help man!

1. There's a shop that carries Amsoil near my house but ill be doing oil changes every 2,000 miles anyway. Ive always used Mobil 1 in my cars so I think ill be using Mobil 1. But what I'm worried about is using Synthetic and having my bike leak... Should I just use Synthetic anyway or not?

2. Now about the oil filters.. I think ill buy the Bosch 3300 since you sold me on that one. If not the Supertech ST7317.

3. The real question I have is... Synthetic or not?

And all of these oils are motorcycle specific right? not automobile oil?

Starscream

That's a widespread myth. That happened with the first synt oils, that sometimes leaked between seals and also some of it's polymers degraded the rubber on said seals.

But nowadays, you can put whichever oil you want...you can have 2 quarts of mineral and 2 quarts of syn in the engine and no problem.

I'm using Motul 7100 on my bike 20w50, no problems whatsoever and I ran it HARD every day. I use a K&N filter and change it every two oil changes.

When I can't find Motul I use Repsol. In the US you have many oil options, here we are very limited by misc issues.

I'd use synt, on the cage I just used whichever cheap oil I can find, but on my bikes I like to use a good oil. And since I'm too lazy, I use synt so I can strecht more the oil changes lol.

Most brands have motorcycle specific oil...for example, Motul has 5100 (Synt-blend) for bikes, 6100 (Synt-blend) for cars...7100 is full synt for 2 wheels, 8100 is the same for cages...

Automobile oil can be used...as long as it don't have molibdenum additives, since it can interfere with the clutch of a bike. That's why I stick to motorcycle specific oil.

Unless you have a bike that goes CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK tintintintin CLAK CLACK CLAK, so you don't need to worry about those kind of additives

i_VTEC

I did my first oil change on my motorcycle. It went pretty well. Everyone told me that it would be messy and I would get oil on the header and what-not. It went by pretty smooth though.

The store was out of Mobil 1 so I just purchased Valvoline 10w-40 =/. Not too fond of Valvoline but I really had no other choice. I used the Bosch 3300 oil filter. In total I paid $24.33 for 4 Qts of oil and an oil filter. Not too bad I guess. (Although I wanted to use Mobil 1 and not Valvoline)

It all went well but I noticed an unusual sound coming from my motor. When it idles I hear what I believe is the timing chain, Or a chain clanking sound, But as soon as I rev it a bit it goes away. Is that sound normal or can my timing chain be loose? (If that's even possible)

Thanks again everyone for the input on my first oil change.

The Hooligan

how many miles on teh bike?

cam chain tensioners can be the weak points on honda bikes.

slm

I've heard the comment from people who have used valvoline. I'm betting that sound is coming from the transmission. Are you in gear or is it nuetral? I've always noticed more sound when I've used 10w40.

i_VTEC

40,xxx Miles. I know its quite a bit. I'm sure that's what it is.. How hard is it to replace that?

I believe the previous owner put about 20,xxx miles on it without doing any type of major maintenance job on it. Besides oil changes and things like that. I know I'm overdue on a Carburetor cleaning job and sync job and what-not. Ive been thinking about just pulling the motor out completely and doing everything it needs.

But for Slm's comment, It's when its in neutral and idling. Other then that, I don't hear it. Oh and I was hearing the noise even before I did the oil change...

j-rome

i know you already did the oil change but just for some input i use amsoil 10w-40 full synthetic and a honda filter in my f2. the bike has just under 40k on it and the motor leaks no where.

the sound is mostlikely the cam chain tensioner. it pretty much goes out on every honda. i have replaced it myself and i thought it was pretty easy. you can either go with a factory or a APR manual one. i think i paid 50 for the APR manual cam chain tensioner.

The Hooligan

its either the cam chain tensioner or the valves need to be adjusted.

if the bike has 40k miles on it the valves could be so tight that they need to be checked and set back to the right spec. its hard to say really without video of the bike running.

i_VTEC

That's exactly what I'm gonna do. Record my bike and let you guys hear it. As for the tensioner... Every forum I read on says to get an APE manual one... Anyone have any experience with the APE CCT?

dohcdelsol

i run the honda genuine 10w40. 18 bucks for 4 qts. bike takes 3.7ish.

as far as filter i run oem. cost 7.50 from dealer.

i also change out the crush washer everytime the drain plug comes off.

The Hooligan

if it was your tensioner, then yes id recommend the APE over oem, but my thoughts its probally the valves.

get some decent video of it and will try our best.

i_VTEC

I ran into another problem! I just don't want to post another topic so Ill mention it on here. I'm never aggressive on my bike, But today I decided to rip it in first and second gear... Everything was fine, But as soon as I pulled up to my drive way I could smell gas. Well I turned it off and noticed it was coming from the overflow hose at the bottom of the bike. Ive had fuel come out but just a little bit... Now I CAN'T get it to stop coming out! Any idea on why this is happening? =(

Mjfan12

make sure to use NON energy conserving oil. EC oil causes your clutch to slip because of a certain friction modifier.

i know my ninjas clutch slipped like a **** during high rpm *****. it was ok in low revs.

im now using shell rotella dino. heavy duty applications like diesel trucks.