Myxalplyx

Car: 2015 Fit Automatic (CVT)
Mods: Custom Made PRM Intake, 2" Flo Pro Max Muffler
Track: Cecil County Dragway
Date: 10/1/14
Temp: 69F - 70F

Ran some 1/4 miles time in the Fit in 'L' mode.

15.813@87.18mph
15.924@88.88mph
15.879@87.38mph
15.849@87.31mph
15.863@87.35mph

https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/96...538/4VoXDq.jpg

claymore

Those are some fantastic times there. Kind makes me rethink about a GK LOL.

If you go to some way back mag articles those times are better than some old time muscle cars in the real world like the first 427 Fords, early mustangs, 409 chevies back in the day.

RC's Garage

That is pretty damn consistent too...

Great job!

Myxalplyx

Thanks RC and Claymore! It's appreciated!

claymore

Yea and have young guy RTs too. Which light are you leaving on?

Myxalplyx

I always leave on the 3rd light, just a mini-second tick after it shows up. I have since broken into the 15.7 range. I need to update my sig.
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/40...904/9U345N.jpg

claymore

Got some advice for you. You are doing great and maybe these will help LOL.

Since I really enjoy your build and I have been drag racing since 1965 and that is before you were born I will give you some pointers I learned over the 49 years I have been racing.

First and foremost is reducing drag on your rolling stock. Either find a gas station with an air pump close to the track or get and air tank and bump your rear tire air pressure to 50-55 lbs so the contact patch is smaller and they are harder for less rolling resistance. (don't forget to reduce to normal when leaving the track)

Next get a brake adjusting spoon and screwdriver and if you jack up the rear and the tire doesn't spin freely, I mean it should be able to rotate with just one finger pressure turning it, if it doesn't spin freely use the spoon and screwdriver to adjust the brakes looser until the wheel and tire spins freely. (don't forget to tighten when leaving)

Next up is reducing drag on your spinning crankshaft. Done simply by running your car with the oil level just at or above the bottom dot on the dipstick. Next time you do an oil change install a fumoto valve with the nipple option so you can open the valve and let just a liter out into a clean container so you can put it back later. This helps prevent oil from winding around the crank reducing drag.

Next get a PROPERLY INSTALLED catch can like this one:

DIY The $10.00 Catch Can - Honda Fit Forums

Read the whole thing and I explain WHY you need one LOL.

Good luck on your quest to be faster.

Myxalplyx

Thanks for these advice. Done the air pressure on the tires but the rest is all new to me. Good stuff!

claymore

Happy to see that you finally proved to yourself that I was correct in telling you that higher octane gives more power LOL!!!

Myxalplyx

Yes! I'm absolutely convinced, at least with the late model Honda Fit. I don't know much about the other models. You probably know me by now that I'm not one to keep guessing, theorizing and speculating. We have the means to test these things even if they aren't 100% accurate. The data kept showing itself to me over and over again but I kept trying to convince myself otherwise by all the hearsay.

There's no turning back now. Thanks for your input! I try to keep an open mind and keep learning as much as I can from people and reading. Yet, people will still doubt though. One thing that people don't generally argue against is 1/4 mile times though. So......I'll just keep posting up if things improve or get worse.

claymore

Now try something to keep the engine temp cooler like a low temp thermostat and fan switch. Or insulating your intake manifold bottom and runners like this.......... More power hidden there too.

Like this.........opps the photos got lost when that site went out of difference here is how to do it DIY "insulating" Intake manifold - Honda Fit Forums

this has photos where you can see the material

DIY adjusting valve clearences GD - Page 2 - Honda Fit Forums

Myxalplyx

Thank you for this info! That's a really good write-up. Wish the pics would show up but I have the general idea. Very interesting! Can't hurt to put something in place. Surprised I haven't read about more people doing it.

claymore

They aren't into actually trying anything. It is so simple if you know anything about internal combustion engines. Colder therefore denser charge equals more power.

The engine the heat producing part of the whole car is under the intake it's a no brainer and it is so simple to do.

claymore

LOL on the J's racing engine pressure control valve. Dude EVERY THING this voodoo part does is ALREADY done by the STOCK PCV system.

Look at the wording and you can see it does NOTHING good it's all meaningless gobblede****.


SAVE YOUR MONEY FOR SOMETHING THAT ACTUALLY DOES SOMETHING other than making j's racing money.


wow can't write G double o... k even if it's part of a word.

Myxalplyx

I do see what you are saying. I'm just thinking there must be something missing from my thinking so I just put it out there. Thanks for your input!

Yeah, if I see something out there, I just post it up and let it go where it may on the boards. Maybe this is a Japanese Turbonator/E-Ram effect type of B.S. product. :-)

claymore

Do NOT listen to anything 13fit says he talks about things he knows nothing about CONSTANTLY.

"colder temps dont help as much as we want! Especially since our IAT sensors are heat soaked so bad from the factory."

You are smart enough to figure out that air moving through the intake system at say 400 cfm just for fun think about how long that air has to be in contact with the housing. A few MICROSECONDS only. But even worse the moron does NOT even mention boundary layer air.

More here: DIY cowl scoop - Page 2 - Honda Fit Forums



Google it and you will find that air moving through a container or pipe develops stagnant air that hovers close to the wall of the pipe reducing it's effective diameter AND provides a barrier to heat transfer. Heat soak is a myth.

I can say that because I have installed a thermometer into my system and KNOW my results.

I have been stopped in traffic for an hour and IAT temps were up to the 135 range when traffic started moving again within a 1/4 mile without even being at WOT the temps were back to the normal 10-20 degrees higher than ambient air. One time it was that hot and I had a clear road and went to WOT the temps dropped to normal in SECONDS.

Myxalplyx

Point taken! The cold air helped out a lot last night. I posted up the new times.

Myxalplyx

Clay, I just got back to read this thread. This is truly a breath of fresh air and creative. Thanks for posting up a link to that. I like stuff like this. More people could look up to you to do things like this instead of handicapping themselves to wait on manufactures to make something. Huge kudos!

claymore

The very best conditions for ET are cold wet days. Cold dense air with moisture in it gives the most ignition timing with the knock detector NOT reducing the timing because the detonation point is higher.