BuiltCRV

Im RJ at Built Performance LLC in Wisconsin and I wanted to make this to be more so an informational piece if anything for those that want a bit of an upgrade or are looking for better information out there. After searching and searching i only came up with a couple threads even remotely helpful with this. After months of cross checking part numbers, opening rear ends, checking gear ratios, differences etc i decided to pull the trigger and purchase a used 2011 Honda Element Differential assembly with 30k miles from my local you pull it junkyard for $80!!

The info:
1997-2001 Differentials are all the same regardless of if there AUTO or Manual so dont let the junkyards or dealership try to fool you into paying triple the price for a "manual unit"

2002-2004 CRV diff WILL bolt up to any RD1 or RD2 (97-2001) CRV but will require dust shield/rings on your axles to be swapped from passenger side to drivers side. 02+ differentials have a new designed clutch friction surface shape in attempt to make more contact. These are also the same regardless of being from an auto or manual vehicle.

2005+ CRV diff will NOT bolt up to any gen 1 and are not compatible

2003-2011 Element diff will bolt up to your gen 1 with a few minor changes discussed in my videos below. 2008+ diffs DO have different clutch material and shape to the friction surface yet again to allow more "bite", quicker engagement and less wear with more longevity as well as redesigned ports and opening shapes for better fluid transfer characteristics. These require no axle swap or dust shield/boot swaps to be installed.

Noteworthy information: all rt4wd b series and k series transmissions use the same gear ratio for all you swap guys out there the only odd ball is the newer style ones 12+ and of course the OG civic wagon d series one. All manual and automatic rear differentials are the same no matter what anyone tells you. There seems to be a big thing with every single junkyard in a 100 mile radius trying to tell me there different as WELL as my local honda dealers. This is false even joe blow can cross reference part numbers from a 2000 cr-v to see there the same.

The Results:
The way this differential reacts in my crv is night and day. I have one 2000 with a 50 trim turbo setup on e85 and another that i installed this in that has an all motor build, full bolt ons, coilovers, wheels etc both 5 spd awd so i put these things through the rounds daily. Simply put in low traction situations i now feel like im driving more of a 4wd style system rather than a fwd assist. Lockup is MUCH faster and much harder with no noise. For those of you that have higher HP crv-s you know the sound im talking about if you've ever launched on dry pavement its more of a howling as your diff leaves you begging for more hook. Well, that issue is completely gone now. Living up north i would also highly recommend this to anyone in a snowbelt region, while you may think your fine stock this is just that much better and for the price you can find these at, you just cant go wrong.

On a side note for the civic wagon guys that are swapping b or k series and using CRV components you may also utilize this as well as this being a GREAT alternative to selling your first born child to find and afford purchasing a wagovan viscous rear diff lol.

Its late and i havent uploaded in depth pictures yet but i do plan to do that i just wanted to get this post up and make people aware we have other options out there for people that have always wondered but never dared to try. I call this the Built Performance element diff swap lol

On to the videos, i have some before videos i took using a slow motion camera and i will be out this weekend taking some after ones using the same camera to show the difference in lockup speed and traction on the same road in hopefully around the same weather conditions. For now though i just have 4 videos showing the process, and some of the basic info.

Video in 720p 60fps for best quality:
Part 1:
Part 2:
Part 3:
Part 4:

forcfedcivic

iTrader: (3)

Hell yeah!
Nice write up! I did some similar digging g and comparisons last winter while I was off work for 3 months with my shoulder surgery. Even went as far as trying to compare ratios in my 2013 pilot and previous generations. I'm in for more info, even though I'm doing the wagon diff/vicious swap in mine.

OneBadTurboCRV

Thanks for sharing! Wish I would have gotten around to messing with my Element diff sooner than the past couple years, but you let me know it all works LOL!

Were any actual measurements taken of the internals on the TCD unit? It appears the casing is bigger on the Element one, I just haven't pulled them apart to see exactly how different they are.

Did you record engagement time differences? Only reason I ask, if you have noticed Honda got away from the RT4WD labeling and now puts AWD on stuff.

What have you done to solve the weak u-joints in the propeller shaft that's the larger problem than the rear differential? I have blown plenty of u-joints, but not one rear diff yet...

tony_2018

This is good ****, thanks for sharing.

JoshTheJerk

sweeeeeeeeet

asianpoet

thats awesome..

77777

this is kind of a big deal. its weird im at like 219k and my stock unit, while still grumbling a lot even though I change fluid every other oil change, still bites and chirps the tires insanely well. but I absolutely will do this.

BuiltCRV

Did not take any measurements of the internals between the two TCD units. If you take them both apart the differences are VERY apperent from the friction material to thickness even of the clutches and plates everything about the element internals just appears like a beefier revised version of the RD2's style items, which makes sense.

I have recorded slow motion 60fps launches that have not been posted yet as i want to re-do the After ones but its been raining pretty much any time i get a chance to do it and i want a good dry vs dry comparison. What i can tell you is the pump system lag is still there but almost non existant as soon as the front tires start to chirp the rear bites in hard and sends you off. The launches instead of feeling like a fwd with assist feels like true AWD especially with the 2 step i have to launch at 6k+ in order to not bog now where as before i could launch on 5200 or so and it would spin the fronts still through first.

As far as the u-joints go, there all stock so nothing done there just a new propeller LOL. Will have to try and solve that issue in the future though i have a few ideas on custom shafts there is a machine shop a buddy of mine works at that is willing to work with anything i give them so should be fun in the future.

Da Zues Meister

Built crv you are the MAN!!!!!!!! Im definitely going to do this upgrade on my 2000 crv. So all you have to do is get a 2011 element differential and swap it and thats it right?? No mods or anything?? I mean aside from the mounting bracket?

freddy chavez

So i need to replace the rear differential on my 04 crv,will an element differential fit my 04 manual crv?theres an element at my local junk yard so was wondering.been looking but cant find a str8 answer.thanks in advance

skyhighsami

How much power are you making you think? How much stronger is this setup than what comes in a stock second gen? I see you're using a manual but does anyone have any idea how much abuse an auto will handle? Awesome info, thanks.

1funryd

I know this was in 2015 but could you please verify?
I would like to know this as well. Watched your videos and you also stated that the axle seals or cups do not need to be swapped like you stated in your post.

Offroadcrv01

Is there any particular reason why 05+ crv diffs are non compatible with rd1?