GoLowDrew

CR-V newbie.

I know maintenance on a FWD Honda. Can someone provide a quick summary to what "maintenance items" are for a AWD CR-V?

More specific:

- Maintenance items under 100K miles.
- Are they DIY for beginners? or require automotive experience and knowledge?
- Any late gen CR-V will be knowledge I didn't know before.

TIA

Caoboy

Drain and refill the rear differential fluid. That's about it, in order to keep it maintained.

GoLowDrew

^^^ how often? What's the official according to Honda and what do owners actually do?

Caoboy

I did it like once a year, 15-20k miles. I didn't check a service interval, I just chalked it up as 'yearly maintenace' and would change it when I would change the spark plugs and transmission fluid.

Before that it had never been changed, as my wife/girlfriend at the time never wondered why her car howled when she made a u turn.

:yikes:

GoLowDrew

Since you own one, let me ask more questions:

1. Did you think 4WD affected your MPG when you drive on dry pavement? Yes, I know the EPA MPG numbers, it suppose to be 1-2 MPG less. But in the real world, what do you think? Meaning, no different than carrying an extra passenger if we want to use "weight" an example/factor.

2. Do you think the CR-V 4WD system in anyway benefit your dry payment driving? Subaru's advertising is pushing how their AWD would be beneficial even on dry payment. Subaru would recommend AWD for those who never see dirt. Would you recommend CR-V 4WD system for someone that never sees dirt (or rain or snow, etc)?

Caoboy

Owned.

1) I am not competent to say if it affect mpg as I never drove a 2wd model, but the fact that the system is just 'there' and rolling, the only thing really affecting your mpg is the weight of the axles, transfer case, drive shaft and rear diff.

I knew of ONE person on the hondasuv forum that took out the drivetrain, and saw a negligible difference in mpg. Driving habits were more of a factor in mpg losses than the weight.

It's designed into the vehicle, and there is no point in thinking about it as 'extra weight'

2) There were a couple of times in wet weather that I felt it working on pavement.

Dry pavement? I never even noticed it. Only reason was how the system works, and how it was not a 'true' awd system. I could feel the awd system working in the GTR immediately when I first drove it. Crv? Never 'felt' it unless I was fully locked in a turn and the diff needed the fluid changed.

Now, wet dirt roads, muddy roads, it shined. It kicked in and worked as it should.

If you are looking at a awd CRV, it is a good system, it never let me down when I needed it.

GoLowDrew

Thanks.

EJ8_Man

Interval according to the service manual: Replace rear differential fluid (4WD) *Use genuine Honda DPSF - every 24 months or 24k miles. Whichever comes first.

GoLowDrew

Thanks.

BigBerz

It's not full time AWD so it's no different than a FWD vehicle. The only way it would affect MPG on regular roads would be the added weight of the parts. It's a manual system that ONLY engages when the front tires spin. This was something I was not aware of when I first bought mine and was the first question I asked here as well.

IF all your ever going to do is drive on pavement, in non winter or slippery conditions it's a complete waste of time having an AWD CRV as the conditions will never allow it to operate. Subaru has electronically controlled AWD that delivers power to separate wheels depending on need, even when dry. CRV does nothing like this.

That being said, I live in harsh winter climate and I am EXTREMELY impressed with how the system operates. It's seamless and I often can't even tell it's engaged but I know it's working.

Berz out.

GoLowDrew

Thanks.

EJ8_Man

Subaru electronically applys the brakes to the wheels in need ie the ones that are slipping so the ones that are not get the power. Simple, clever, and it works.

I am most displeased in the quality of Subaru, which is precisely why I bought my CRV. It replaced my 2010 Forester. There was much gnashing of teeth followed by sadness...

OneBadTurboCRV

The AWD /RT4WD system absolutely decreases MPG. The rotational losses are the cause, paired only slightly with the minimal increase in weight. The parasitic drag of the RT4WD system is definitely apparent when you remove the propeller shaft from the vehicle. If you haven't, you should try it some time, especially on a modified CRV. Given, if you drive easy and sensible you may not notice much of a difference in fuel economy or power at all.

Also just FYI, if you hear noise from the rear end, you went too long between fluid changes LOL. I replace mine about every 4th or 5th oil change, then again I am not easy on mine at all. It's probably overkill, but I have yet to burn up a TCD unit either even with my PhantomGrip style rear diff mod. (Yes, I know they are debatable...)

Aggression

Is there a way to save the rear end if it already squeaks? Mine has been squeaking since I got it, I've done a couple of fluid changes. The noise has gone down considerably, and the all wheel drive engages. (not sure if it's full strength, or ideal for the vehicle)
I'm probably due for a new one regardless, just figured I'd ask.

Also, when you say Phantomgrip 'style' rear mod, what do you mean? The Phantomgrip LSDs for the trans, or you've done a mod to the rear diff itself?

OneBadTurboCRV

You may be able to shim the clutch packs, or just rebuild it. If you want the part number for the rebuild kit I have it, but don't know it off the top of my head right now.

No, I have done multiple LSDs for people including 2 for myself for the transmission. I am talking for the rear differential... I have poured hours into trying to find a diff that will work for the rear and haven't been able to find a workable solution.

When I say "PhantomGrip style", I mean exactly that. Here are some pics of the prototype one I made and is currently installed in my CRV. You can definitely tell a difference in the snow but everything else, well... idk, better than nothing LOL!

* Honda lugnut is there for size reference.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

My rear sounded pretty bad during u turns when I picked my 99 up. I just changed the old nasty *** fluid out for fresh Dual Pump II and it immediately went away. No problems since for the last 3000 miles or so.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

FWIW the rear actually DOES engaged during turning also just not enough to make much difference, especially u turns. The diff can senses the difference in inner and outer tire rotation as slip and transfers power to the rear. It's always good to check the rear diff by turning the wheel full lock in a parking lot and doing a few circles while listening for noise when buying a AWD CR-V.

Aggression

Sounds similar to mine. But, as soon as I found a snow covered parking lot this year I found my squeaking issues were still prevalent. The initial fluid change did get rid of the u turn squeaking though.

OneBadTurboCRV

Sorry, almost forgot about your PM. It has come down in price.

TCD Rebuild Kit P/N: 48010-P6R-305

gmcuajo1

Bringing back an old post but, does it work? The phantom grip?
I just acquire a ‘00 and looking for some off road trails.