mypsi

Hi all,

I have a 2000 CRV (LX, I think). About a year ago, I broke a timing belt, bought a new car, and then over time pulled the head, had it rebuilt, and put everything back together. I've been trying to get it started back up, and I think I need to replace the computer (ECM/PCM, or ecu, whatever you want to call it), but I want to run my diagnostics by someone, and make sure I understand how to replace it.

So, I have no spark, and I believe that I'm not getting a signal from the PCM to the Ignition Control Module. I have no check engine light when I turn the key on (it's supposed to come on for 2 seconds), so I have followed the troubleshooting on pages 11-86 and 87 of the FSM. I passed all of it, found out that my G101 ground wasn't tight, and got to the last step:

When I test this, I actually get ~9V. I've checked my battery, and it is giving 12V, and I've checked other ECM/PCM terminals that are supposed to have battery voltage, for example A3, and they do get 12V, as well as other terminals that are supposed to give 5V, like A27 for the AC switch sensor, and they also give 9V. So I am getting less than battery voltage, and it's the same amount less as at other terminals, but it's not the 5V I'm supposed to get. The "no" path of the above question says to look for the problem in the MAP, TP, or fuel tank pressure sensors, or a short in their wires somewhere. But since I get the same 9V at A27, I'm going to assume those aren't the problem. Would anyone disagree with this?

If I answer "yes" to the last troubleshooting question, it says to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. The model I need is 37820-PHK-A63, which I believe was in the 2001 as well. I was going to call around to junk yards or buy a used unit off of ebay. I see one on ebay for $59 that claims to be tested and working. Is this usually a safe bet, assuming the seller has a decent rating?

My other concern is about how to replace it. From what I've read, it seems like there is no immobilizer in first generation CRVs, at least those from the US. Also, at least one of our keys is just a plain metal key that looks like it was made at a hardware store, so I don't think there is any programming to match keys to a new computer. Will I be able to just plug the new one in, or do these models require any programming?

Thanks.

mypsi

Update: The dealership told me that they will need to program a new computer, quoted me $114, and that it would take about an hour. Does this sound right to anyone?

0HAMOTORSPORTS

The 97-01 CRV PCM's do not have an immobilizer. There is no programming needed when switching the ECU/PCM.

mypsi

Awesome, just what I wanted to hear. Thanks.

h801897

Was there any follow up on this my CR-V is doing the same thing. No check engine light, no communication with scan tool all fuses are good. swapped ECM with one from junk yard and same results.

mypsi

Actually it turned out to be a loose ground somewhere under the hood. Maybe in the cylinder head, or somewhere under that, I remember needing an extension it two on the socket to tighten it. I maybe remember that it was really mysterious, because everything else on that ground still worked, but the ECU must have been a little more sensitive.