wjones5823

I am getting a random misfire code P1399. I have seen it suggested that the EGR ports may need cleaning. Where is this? (I assume Under the Resonator) and generally how do you clean the ports. I already dealt with a Catalytic and O2 sensor(those codes went away). Low RPMS at stops. Occasional flashing engine light.

Caoboy

There is no EGR on a 99 CR-V.

Caoboy

When is the last time a valve lash adjustment has been done?

Have you recently messed with the ignition system?

wjones5823

Just bought the car. Put new CC on and O2. Also new platinum plugs and wires. Valve adjust is on my list. Any other ideas?

Caoboy

Do the valve adjustment because it most likely needs it (these valves like to tighten up, so you'll want to adjust toward the looser side of the spec)

Also I'd get a spark tester and test the spark if you don't have one. Are you using OEM wires or did you get aftermarket wires?

wjones5823

I have tested the spark. Wires are aftermarket. Got a good strong spark. Valve adjustment seems best. Not much cost, probably needs it anyway. I will do over weekend and I will post the results.

Caoboy

How did you test spark?

What brand are the aftermarket wires?

For the wires, it is best to stick with OEM Honda wires. NGK is a good substitute. Anything other than that is not really recommended.

wjones5823

Okay, so over the weekend, I adjusted the valves. Its not rocket science. exhaust at .008 and intakes at .005. Runs better, but still getting the engine light flash. Stops flashing as I drive down the road. At intersections the RPMs drop to 500 to 750 and the flashing light starts again. I was thinking my next course of action is a compression test. Any other ideas?

Caoboy

Leakdown test over compression...

Not to worry you, but I wouldn't be surprised if one of the valves is burned up.

Can you do another test? When it is idling, (and the flashing light happens) do a 'power balance' test by unplugging each spark plug wire one cylinder at a time, and see if any of the cylinders sound 'different' than the rest.

wjones5823

A burnt valve has been my fear from the beginning. Somewhat of a novice, I have seen leak down test mentioned before, Can you give me a general idea or you tube recommendation? I did the wire method you suggested before I adjusted the valves. There seemed like there was almost no difference in number 3 cylinder. I will try it again, but I suspect a burnt valve.

Caoboy

This guy has a lot of good DIY videos.

The leakdown tester he's using is from Harbor Freight.

Air leaking out the intake manifold or exhaust manifold would indicate a valve issue...

wjones5823

Sorry, just realized I never updated this message, my fears were realized, 2 burnt valves. Had complete valve job done, reinstalled and the CRV runs like a champ. All codes are gone, problem solved. I see alot of posts with similar symptoms. I would suggest that most of the time it will be a burnt valve. Do a compression or leak test right away and save yourself the headache. Thanks all for your guidance, it definitely helped!

Caoboy

Great to hear that!

SuperDave777

I see one on my 99 honda crv. Maybe since I purchased it used, that someone installed a newer engine? I am soooo confused!!!!!! All I know is that it has new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, and coil. Now it wont run smooth: backfires, i am smelling fuel, and i can hardly drive it up the street. Did the mobile mechanic i use do something wrong? I really don't see what could have changed for my engine to be messing up like this.
Thanks for your input!!!!