nappyroots827

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hamstr323 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOU KNOW WHAT'S FUNNY AT 3K ON THAT FAKE SHEET YOU HAVE 100HP & 180TQ NOW PLEASE EXPLAIN HOW YOU GOT THAT???

OH LET ME GUESS YOU STARTED SPRAYING THE 75 SHOT AT IDLE LOL </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i got that number because horsepower = (torque * rpm)/5252 So thats how i got that number....the same way people that actually know what their talking about get those numbers

So before you go busting on something, why don't you figure out what your talking about

charlee

LOL. here is my y8 specs



lol JK

Autoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man, expletive it, I give up...You people are hopeless...And about the idea that he let me try on his car, i took the system out before i gave it to him, he just gave the okay to try it on his car, he never kept it, cuz once again, some jackass would copy it and go out and start selling it.

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I haven't done any name calling, just alot of question asking because again, what you are saying either doesn't add up physically or just doesn't make sense.
If he let you try a (i'm assuming direct port) direct port setup on his car and take it off, what did you do with the tapped runners? Did you leave them open or weld them back? Why go through the trouble just to spray a 75 shot...that's alot of install time and tune time for what IMO is a waste of time. You keep saying "copy" your "idea"? I'm still missing something. What is there to be copied that is so top secret? Taking a pic of a motor doesn't show what's inside of it. I'm sure its not the most intriguing ZC setup. (if it exists) (that title goes to the ZC on zcspeed IMO) What is the "it" that will get copied and sold is what I'm trying to figure out.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well i got that number because horsepower = (torque * rpm)/5252 So thats how i got that number....the same way people that actually know what their talking about get those numbers

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I don't think he's looking for the equation for hp. What he's saying is that if you are spraying a 75 shot and making 100hp and 180tq @ 3k RPM...the power had to climb from the spray, so you would have had to begin spraying at idle (~1k) to make 100hp@3k...expletive it , I can't even try to explain it in a way to make sense because it just doesn't. I keep looking over at my own dynos from my ZC and B16 and just keep saying there's no f'n way.

SIred91

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And I know what nitrous oxide does. Depending on your setup, it either cools the air charge, or it is used as a combustion accelerant. Any other brain busters....</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are a phucking tool.

charlee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you are a phucking tool.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol chill dood!

adi69

thanks guys for the replies that were informative and on topic

If I had a choice.......I would go with the b-series. But as it stands at the mo, I don't. So the ZC/D16A9 will have to be the best alternative. At least it looks like 180bhp maybe achievable with some messing about and getting the right parts.

Autoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pug206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys for the replies that were informative and on topic

If I had a choice.......I would go with the b-series. But as it stands at the mo, I don't. So the ZC/D16A9 will have to be the best alternative. At least it looks like 180bhp maybe achievable with some messing about and getting the right parts.


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nappyroots827

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I haven't done any name calling, just alot of question asking because again, what you are saying either doesn't add up physically or just doesn't make sense.
If he let you try a (i'm assuming direct port) direct port setup on his car and take it off, what did you do with the tapped runners? Did you leave them open or weld them back? Why go through the trouble just to spray a 75 shot...that's alot of install time and tune time for what IMO is a waste of time. You keep saying "copy" your "idea"? I'm still missing something. What is there to be copied that is so top secret? Taking a pic of a motor doesn't show what's inside of it. I'm sure its not the most intriguing ZC setup. (if it exists) (that title goes to the ZC on zcspeed IMO) What is the "it" that will get copied and sold is what I'm trying to figure out.


I don't think he's looking for the equation for hp. What he's saying is that if you are spraying a 75 shot and making 100hp and 180tq @ 3k RPM...the power had to climb from the spray, so you would have had to begin spraying at idle (~1k) to make 100hp@3k...expletive it , I can't even try to explain it in a way to make sense because it just doesn't. I keep looking over at my own dynos from my ZC and B16 and just keep saying there's no f'n way. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The "idea" isn't a direct port setup, thats no secret, thats been out forever...And i know your not name calling, if anything, youve been the most respectable person out of all of em, your just looking for answers, not being some ignorant stuck up person that refuses to believe anything. And I appreciate that.

And with the nitrous kit, he wanted me to hook it up to a WOT w/o an rpm activator...don't ask why, it sounded dumb to me...this guy was ignorant, he wanted stuff done his way no matter what my opinion...The only thing i could talk him into is taking it easier on the spray and going a smaller shot because of the high compression...So if i got across to him at all that was it.
So obviously the way the N2O was hooked up, during dyno runs, it kicked on basically fromt he dead beginning, which made it very hard to tune, we probably spent 4 or 5 hours on the dyno just to tune it right with the nitrous.

And as for the idea, once its finished and successfully working on my own car, ill let you know what it is, because by then ill be selling them for other engine setups as well.

nappyroots827

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you are a phucking tool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why does knowing what nitrous does make me a tool?

nappyroots827

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pug206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys for the replies that were informative and on topic

If I had a choice.......I would go with the b-series. But as it stands at the mo, I don't. So the ZC/D16A9 will have to be the best alternative. At least it looks like 180bhp maybe achievable with some messing about and getting the right parts.


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Good luck man! hope everything turns out good for ya... ZC's are good motors, i think you'll be happy with it

Autoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The "idea" isn't a direct port setup, thats no secret, thats been out forever...

And with the nitrous kit, he wanted me to hook it up to a WOT w/o an rpm activator...So obviously the way the N2O was hooked up, during dyno runs, it kicked on basically fromt he dead beginning, which made it very hard to tune, we probably spent 4 or 5 hours on the dyno just to tune it right with the nitrous.

And as for the idea, once its finished and successfully working on my own car, ill let you know what it is, because by then ill be selling them for other engine setups as well.

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Still missing something... (sidenote, I've owned 2 and installed several N2O kits)
Even if he wanted a kit hooked to run at WOT (such as Zex), it still needs an arming switch. Are you saying there was no arming switch on this setup? That would mean it would spray whenever it is at WOT. Dynoing for 4 or 5 hours...that would be about 10 bottles or more just to make it tunable enough to even make a decent pass (timing, timing timing...not even going to get into the timing and why it wouldn't run if it was spraying off the line with this setup your claiming)...then you turn around and take off the kit (which you said was ran off of a WOT switch but would still be a direct port setup on ITB's...) So what was done with the holes in the plenum?

Knowone still has any clue to what "it" is. Are you referring to the N2O setup, the ITB setup, the WOT switch,...?

EDIT: looking back, the dyno doesn't match what you are saying. If the N2O was on a WOT switch then that graph is realy jacked...there's just no way that adds up.
it's nuts

nappyroots827

haha, nice pic, lol....The N2O kit wasn't what I took off... The "idea" is what i tried on his car and took back off...Well, sort of, the ITB's were part of it, but it still functions while not hooked up...Sorry I would tell you more, but i don't wanna give away what it is...

And the dyno graph is what the guy emailed back to me, i couldn't find a personal copy so i contacted him and he emailed me, i don't know if he altered it for any dumb reason, but i remember thats around the right horsepower.

The closest thing im gonna say to my idea was that my air intake temp meter was reading on average -10°

Autoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha, nice pic, lol....The N2O kit wasn't what I took off... The "idea" is what i tried on his car and took back off...Well, sort of, the ITB's were part of it, but it still functions while not hooked up...Sorry I would tell you more, but i don't wanna give away what it is...

And the dyno graph is what the guy emailed back to me, i couldn't find a personal copy so i contacted him and he emailed me, i don't know if he altered it for any dumb reason, but i remember thats around the right horsepower.

The closest thing im gonna say to my idea was that my air intake temp meter was reading on average -10°</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you left a useless nitrous kit on the car and put all the timing back in so the car was driveable?..but if he were to spray it...boom
Why would someone alter a dyno? (that dyno is scanned and appears unaltered)
top secret flux capacitor

SIred91

the way you explained it, tells me you have no idea what you are talking about.

dude, just stop now. that dyno is of no 4 cyl. especialy a honda I4.

it damn near looks like a mirror copy of my stock 95 Z28.

so just please stop now. I have been around cars for a long time.

so has autoworks, he's just being a lot nicer than I am.

just stop. its ok. we know your just trying to fit in and make people like you.

you dont have to lie to have people like you.

so just stop now.

stop.

nappyroots827

if i was just trying to get people to like me, i would have stopped a long time ago...And if that is a match of your z28 dyno, that sucks man.. you should have twice that torque

SIred91

i dont try to paint things as they are not. its bone stock. and has 230,000 miles on its clock.

and thats about what your gonna see at the wheels of a V8.

civicjdmb16a

"it" is how long he can keep this jackass thread going about his imaginary engine

nappyroots827

given the benefit of the doubt, lets say your z28 is an LS1 which is probably their best motor in a z28...That dyno chart looks nothing like this one.

Ash J. Williams

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pug206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys for the replies that were informative and on topic

If I had a choice.......I would go with the b-series. But as it stands at the mo, I don't. So the ZC/D16A9 will have to be the best alternative. At least it looks like 180bhp maybe achievable with some messing about and getting the right parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

180hp is very possible with a ZC, there have been quite a few SOHC D series pushing more than that. of course the engine is race only and peaky. my D16A6 was very close to that.

Autoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicjdmb16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"it" is how long he can keep this jackass thread going about his imaginary engine </TD></TR></TABLE>
aah hah!...I knew there was something. I honestly think that is what "it" is.

nappyroots827

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So you left a useless nitrous kit on the car and put all the timing back in so the car was driveable?..but if he were to spray it...boom
Why would someone alter a dyno? (that dyno is scanned and appears unaltered)
top secret flux capacitor </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do you say the nitrous kit was useless, it was still installed and working when we gave him the car?

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, there was a 75 shot on that run.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh? So a "75 shot" of N2O added over 160 lb-ft of torque?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We did a run without it and it dyno'd about 260 or somewhere around there, and the power band was much higher. Then we ran it with and it greatly lowered the rpm band and raised the torque greatly. So that is part of the reason those numbers are so high.</TD></TR></TABLE>
260hp without nitrous still puts you at over 180 lb-ft of torque, which is physically impossible. You're expecting me to believe that your "NA" DOHC ZC build made 20 more horsepower and over 45 more lb-ft of torque at the wheels than a 4A-GE Formula Atlantic engine makes at the flywheel?

GTFO.

Hamstr323

nappy you did all this work correct? where do you live?
what was it tuned with?

SIred91

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">given the benefit of the doubt, lets say your z28 is an LS1 which is probably their best motor in a z28...That dyno chart looks nothing like this one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how stupid are you?

LT1. 1995. and brand new, it had 275hp and260 ft lbs.

you are an idiot.

CRX_1.8T

i want to know more about the 700 whp K20 that doesn't require the use of nitrous or forced induction that you were talking about meng.