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Do you have all the dowel pins for the trans and plate? Also where the starter relief is a 14x16 dowel from a Honda motorcycle shop will work, otherwise cut a 14x20 to fit.
Well, this is a bummer. Not much work done tonight. My buddy and I tried to take the motor off the engine stand but it wouldn't budge. We need to eat more Wheaties I guess. Next time, I'm gonna get more muscle to help us get it off the stand. I can still fiddle around and install alternator kit, driver side mount, and finish mocking up my engine harness tuck.
Anyways, here are a few teasers to keep this build sort of interesting until the real deal begin (hopefully sooner than later). It's hard, and at times, frustrating, when you're taking on a project this big by yourself. Sometimes I wish I live closer to all my car guys, we'd already have this beast ripping
down the track. But my daughter is here, and so am I. No regrets...
Complete valve cover gasket set, new NGK plugs and wire. Highend header looking so fresh and so clean.
Do you have all the dowel pins for the trans and plate? Also where the starter relief is a 14x16 dowel from a Honda motorcycle shop will work, otherwise cut a 14x20 to fit.
Hey, I just have the four dowel pins QSD mentioned that was required for the install. I wasn't aware I needed anything else. If I come across a problem during the install, mind if I PM you?
Hey, I just have the four dowel pins QSD mentioned that was required for the install. I wasn't aware I needed anything else. If I come across a problem during the install, mind if I PM you?
Sure, Also check out the official discussion thread in the hybrid section. 4 pins is correct, I did not have all of them so I found a 14x16 for the starter relief hole.
^^thanks for the heads up. The discussion page is great.
Quick question: anyone using Innovative EF Hydro B series mounts on their H2B notice that the QSD supplied engine mount bolts that holds the innovative mount to the QSD mount bracket are WAY too short? No big deal, I can go to hardware store and get longer ones. I just wanted to make sure I'm not mixing my bolts up. Thanks!!
UPDATE: So I had some free time yesterday after work so my buddy and I decided to put in the Innovative traction bar.
New bar
Side by side
Installed
Took us 30 mins, thank God for air tools and a rack.
Plans this weekend: I already shaved down the block for axle clearance, so hopefully this weekend I can get the motor off the stand and install the tranny along with the clutch and flywheel.
Sorry guys, time is scarce around here. Stay tuned.
Glad you got the right traction bar. Innovative is not only the best deal but the only correct bar for EF chassis.
I'm happy with my ESP traction bar, it is definitely "correct". I'm not sure they are making them anymore though. That thing is very solid and fits perfectly. Just out of curiosity Bently, why do you say that Innovative is the only correct bar for the EF? I have seen a K-tuned bar with poor quality welds, and it eventually bent. I'm not saying that is typical for K-tuned, just that the one I saw was a supreme piece of junk. However, I though that the Full Race Bars are well know as a good quality part. Please inform.
Lots of information on here regarding the design of traction bars for the EF chassis. Innovative is the only brand with a single heim joint which replicates OEM. All the others use a double heim allowing the LCA to rotate forward and backward.
ChrisB who owns kingpin machine has posted about this before.
Thanks Bently, I really had no idea... apparently some manufacturers don't either. I'll have to check, but I'm thinking that my ESP is like the Innovative... at least I hope so.
aren't you going to have pulley clearance issue with that traction bar? or is that avoided due to the single pulley?
It shouldn't be a problem. The single pulley is more for framerail clearance. I'll post pics when the motor is in. Just checked clearance with the stock motor and it's nowhere close to hitting (granted it's a tiny d15 vs the h22).
id really like to see the pulley clearance with the innovative bar on an H to B swap. i have a full H swap in my ef and innovative's bar did not clear at all. i was also at stock ride height.
Quick question guys. I've been busy with trying to move and finishing up school so progress has been slow on the build. I'm about to mate the tranny to the block and I have a couple questions.
Did you guys have to measure ARP flywheel bolts that came with QSD kit to make sure it didn't bottom out in block before it's properly torqued down to flywheel. I've read horror stories of bolt backing out because it was a bit too long and therefore couldn't properly be torqued down, ruined the crank.
Second, I ordered ARP pressure plate bolts and it came with washers. My understanding is that you don't use washers for pressure plate right? And is Loctite needed for these? (I used Blue Loctite on flywheel bolts)
Thanks, and I'll post some pics soon of the kit fully assembled.
I think I used red Loctite, blue should be fine though as long as everything is torqued to specification. Also if you need to remove them heat up the bolt with a propane torch, the Loctite should release. Not sure about the bolt measuring though, don't imagine it being that difficult.
I measured my bolts to make sure they didn't bottom out and everything was perfect in that respect. I was so **** with those bolts - so so careful with the torque levels and the loctite. 1k miles in and on the dyno being fully tuned they backed out and sheered off. Luckily my crank was salvageable and I went forward with the h2b specific clutchmasters fly to negate the need for that spacer. I truly can't recommend NOT using that spacer enough. I personally think it's due to the different metals heating and contracting in ever so slightly different rates so over time it puts lots of pressure and strain on the bolts and they give up. Still, many others have been fine (and many others haven't) so make your choice on what you read. I did and paid the price, good luck dude. I'm currently fitting the k20 rbc to my h2b... K2H2B haha
I measured my bolts to make sure they didn't bottom out and everything was perfect in that respect. I was so **** with those bolts - so so careful with the torque levels and the loctite. 1k miles in and on the dyno being fully tuned they backed out and sheered off. Luckily my crank was salvageable and I went forward with the h2b specific clutchmasters fly to negate the need for that spacer. I truly can't recommend NOT using that spacer enough. I personally think it's due to the different metals heating and contracting in ever so slightly different rates so over time it puts lots of pressure and strain on the bolts and they give up. Still, many others have been fine (and many others haven't) so make your choice on what you read. I did and paid the price, good luck dude. I'm currently fitting the k20 rbc to my h2b... K2H2B haha
K2H2B, what a beast! I'm guessing k20 intake manifold on h2b setup? And dude, you got me all worried now. I just buttoned up the tranny to the motor, and now im debating that clutchmaster flywheel so save the headache if those bolts do decide to back off. FML...
K2H2B, what a beast! I'm guessing k20 intake manifold on h2b setup? And dude, you got me all worried now. I just buttoned up the tranny to the motor, and now im debating that clutchmaster flywheel so save the headache if those bolts do decide to back off. FML...
I don't want to scare you man sorry - you will probably be ok, plenty of others have been. Just wanted to make you aware. It was my one and only fear when I did my setup about 3-4 yrs ago. The other was oil starvation due to incorrect oil pick up positioning but nothing a qsd sump and pick up can't fix
Yeh k20 mani to the H. I got a great deal off rosko all port matched to a 70mm TB otherwise I will have gone euro r probably. So we'll see how it turns out!
The QSD pan is crazy priced. I kept an eye on my oil pressure gauge constantly, and it was fine. I would suggest welding a bung in the front of the stock pan for proper draining though, that's what I did.
Oh, and I know it's already been squashed here, but the heavy front handling is pure BS. Mine was fine on stock springs and on F&Fs. I had to use an Evolution pulley and it was close to the FR traction bar I'm using, but only at stock height. When I lowered it, it seemed to gain clearance - was perfectly drivable in both situations though. I tried using the Euro single pulley but it was still too big in my case (H2D). I'm going to be pissed if yours slides in without banging the frame rail . A chunk of mine had to be removed even for the Evolution pulley.
Engine looks super clean on that stand Looking forward to your progress
The QSD pan is crazy priced. I kept an eye on my oil pressure gauge constantly, and it was fine. I would suggest welding a bung in the front of the stock pan for proper draining though, that's what I did.
Oh, and I know it's already been squashed here, but the heavy front handling is pure BS. Mine was fine on stock springs and on F&Fs. I had to use an Evolution pulley and it was close to the FR traction bar I'm using, but only at stock height. When I lowered it, it seemed to gain clearance - was perfectly drivable in both situations though. I tried using the Euro single pulley but it was still too big in my case (H2D). I'm going to be pissed if yours slides in without banging the frame rail . A chunk of mine had to be removed even for the Evolution pulley.
Engine looks super clean on that stand Looking forward to your progress
Thanks man. I'm a little concerned about pulley clearance as well, but will have to wait and see when i drop the motor in.
UPDATE: So I recently had to move, and now the motor is in storage for the time being until I have time to drop it in. I have all the parts needed to complete the swap and start her up, just waiting for time. I decided to use AEM fuel rail, fuelab gauge, all AN fuel lines (to and from rail to stock fuel filter, since i dont want to flare hard lines yet to run racing fuel filter). I opted to run stock injectors and FPR for now since I want to see what this setup will run stock before upgrading. I also got QSD gooseneck to eliminate coolant hose kink problem.
Anyways, here are some pics of the Hush22 conversion install and motor/tranny assembly. Enjoy, and of course, any advice and tips are always greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Out with the old, in with the new.
Tight fit.
Installed.
Clutch line from master...
...to bulkhead.
I used Aeroquip teflon -3an braided lines with Aeroquip stainless fittings. (I PERSONALLY don't like the blue/red aluminum fittings, stainless is much cleaner looking.) I also don't like mix and match, so I tried to stick with one brand (Aeroquip) for all my lines, fuel included.
Reservoir.
I got too excited to install the flywheel that I FORGOT to install the pilot bearing after I already Loctite and torqued bolts. Yeah, pain in the *** to remove and reinstall.
Clutch disc.
Pressure plate.
Finally, assembled. Don't mind the crappy red intake pipe hose, its temporary until I decide what to do with a real intake setup. Advice and tips always helpful.
04-13-2015, 06:09 PM
Re: When H met B.
