HondaHeddie

I know from my searches that this subj get beat to death, but I am really at a loss here, so I hope the help/flame ration is low

I am coming up on the end of 30day grace period fast

I have spent days searching and fiddling
I even got a ticket for exp tag!
now I really need to fix this so I don't have to pay that fine as well

my new test

And yes, the state puts the frowny face on the sheet, not me........

I got HC down from 208ppm to 75ppm......
not where I want it, but out of worry zone

CO slight increase prev 2.31% now 2.59%

before test today:
I replaced cap (rotor is frozen on shaft so I polished it instead)
new wires
retarded timing, by guessing mostly.(after new cap and wires the timing was hard to read, the marks kept jumping all over the place)
I think it is btw 16 and 12 btdc (was at 18-19 btdc for 1st test)

I am in the last 2 -3 gal of a tank full of xylene mix(around 95+oct)
exact oct is hard to say, I started with a couple gal 87, then 4gal or so of 89, drove on that then added almost 5/6th-9/10th gal xylene and filled with 91-92.

should I just poor a gal of alcohol in the tank now a try again?
or
should I re advance the timing since the HC are lower to drop CO?

I know the garnty to pass stuff is highly though of and I would use it but it says to run a full tank through the engine mixed with that, then run another and take the test
I cant be driving the car around like that
I gotta be at work tomorrow and that involves lots of driving, incl to Fort Campbell and bases wont let you on w/o current tags.

Here are my threads(and what I have done so far) so far on this ordeal
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1837498
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1837564

tell me I am stupid, tell me I am lazy
tell me anything, but "dude yer f****'d"

wrXtian

damn i didn't even know tennessee had emission's testing.

HondaHeddie

only in a couple counties
Davidson(Nashville) is one
not sure of the others


and I forgot to mention
I drove it on the hwy hard b4 test
stayed out of 5th
and when I was on city roads going to site, I kept rpms at 3-4k
low gears only
I moved my idle to 1500rpm
and set my foot on the peddle when I was waiting

the cat was not cold

HondaHeddie

could it be a new cat is needed....(please say no)

if so would one from a yard be worth the time, if I gave it a good looksee after I pulled it?
Or will a dead cat look just like a good one?
If I must buy one which one should I get (just one that works, I aint got losta cash to spend).....well actually I have NO cash to spend, but if I gotta, I gotta

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

1st, get a timing gun and set your timing to 16 btdc.

Lean out your idle.
Check your plugs, again.

Is this a ODB1 conversion? What ecu are your running?

91lx998

memphis does too. but if u live in unicorperatied shelby county or one off the suburb's there is no inspection. you only have to get inspected if you live within the city of memphis. now a'nit that cool beans

HondaHeddie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1st, get a timing gun and set your timing to 16 btdc.

Lean out your idle.
Check your plugs, again.

Is this a ODB1 conversion? What ecu are your running?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

only things not stock are the JDM D15B(non-vtec) so same engine really
orig IM + shorty intake
4-2-1 ex header O2 in same position as stock manni
still OBD-0

I do have a timing gun
'that is how I could tell you where I have it (the marks are all over the place since I put the new cap and wires on)
I will recheck now that car has been sitting an hr or so


the rotor will not be changed
it is frozen to the shaft due to sub par "fix" from underskilled mech (long story)
so I have polished the rotor shiny.

the plugs are about 300mi old what should I see, when I check them?

how would I set the mix to lean it?
should I put the "restrictor" plate back in the TB?



how about drain the tank and put a gallon of alcohol in it?

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

Check the plugs for carbon build up.

You should have air idle screw, this should lean you out at idle.

Yes, I would put the restrictor plate back in.

HondaHeddie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the plugs for carbon build up.

You should have air idle screw, this should lean you out at idle.

Yes, I would put the restrictor plate back in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok
I know the idle adjust screw, but where is the idle air screw?????
(I could nit find a pic)

how does the restrictor plate put more air in the mix?????
it has been out for 2 yrs, and this is the 1st time I have failed smog.

I am checking plugs now

iphatcrxi

hey im having the same problem with HC mostly, i got them down from 700 to 400 but now my CO failed, where as i passed last time, but my car was not warmed up this time i plan on trying to pass by advancing my timing to get a more compete burn with 87 octane and with about 1/5 tank of gas left put a quart of denatured alchohal in.

you might want to check this thread out
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1305346

HondaHeddie

plugs still clean

checking timing after car is warm

HondaHeddie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iphatcrxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey im having the same problem with HC mostly, i got them down from 700 to 400 but now my CO failed, where as i passed last time, but my car was not warmed up this time i plan on trying to pass by advancing my timing to get a more compete burn with 87 octane and with about 1/5 tank of gas left put a quart of denatured alchohal in.

you might want to check this thread out
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1305346</TD></TR></TABLE>


nice link
thanks

will pulling the pcv reduce CO
they dont test NOx here so that is not an issue

iphatcrxi

not sure about CO but i know it lowers HC

HondaHeddie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iphatcrxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not sure about CO but i know it lowers HC</TD></TR></TABLE>
I pass on HC
it is CO that has killed me twice

iphatcrxi

i know you didn't want to hear this but im pretty sure cat's lower CO

HondaHeddie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iphatcrxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know you didn't want to hear this but im pretty sure cat's lower CO</TD></TR></TABLE>

u r right

I dont wanna hear that


according to this
http://www.firstfives.org/faq/smog/smog_faq.html
and what u guys have told me

short of a new cat:
to lower CO
adv timing, burn alcohol, lean mix

the 1st 2 I can see
how do I lean the mix???? if I pull the pcv and leave that hole open in the IM will that lean it appropriately?
if not....the where is the air adj screw on the DPFI TB?

HondaHeddie

OOOO KKKKKK

I am holding off on the 3rd test

I have 2 Ideas

1
as suggested above..........maybe the CAT???????


2
I have reason to suspect a problem with the alignment of the rotor is causing short sparks
The nature of this will require replacing the dizzy, not just the rotor


both 1 and 2 are not ez ways to go
I would like to only do the right one


could they both be causes of hi CO?


and will a bunch of alcohol get me to pass if the above are the cause????

OR


3
would an exhaust leak cause hi CO?
I dont have any indication of one, I think

kim_2_da_chee

The gallon of methyl alcohol is not a bad idea, it worked for 2 ITRs to pass that I know of. But I don't know if you have to show your ministry a receipt of your repairs to pass that emissions test.

HondaHeddie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kim_2_da_chee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The gallon of methyl alcohol is not a bad idea, it worked for 2 ITRs to pass that I know of. But I don't know if you have to show your ministry a receipt of your repairs to pass that emissions test.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks man!!

we only have to show up and pass here in Tennessee
and only have limits on HC and CO, which is what really burrs my bunghole
we barely have a standard to meet here and I STILL didn't pass

I will try the alcohol tomorrow.

BTW
are junkyard dizzies a complete write off?

I have a rotor seized on mine, and the setscrew hole is DOA
(someone else's attempt at a repair not me)

I don't think the rotor is giving a complete spark to the plug as a result.

If I am not mistaken this could be giving me higher HC and CO????????????

I can get a dizzy here for about 25bucks w/ wnty,
but if it is probably gonna fall apart in a week I don't want it


let me know if I am right/wrong anywhere

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

Yes, your plugs look clean.

The only thing I can think of is getting a replacement cat, but that is expensive.

HondaHeddie

Has anyone tried this or similar items

http://www.autobarn.net/chcat-1.html

and will I possibly pass with the alcohol trick?

I can have a majority of alcohol in the tank, I have it pretty low now

wrXtian

just get one of those carsound cats.. the high flow cat made by magnaflow.. those things are cheap. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

HondaHeddie

I need 2 pass 2day

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrXtian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get one of those carsound cats.. the high flow cat made by magnaflow.. those things are cheap. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW</TD></TR></TABLE>

janz3n

keep that restrictor plate in after the test.. it doesnt do any good not being in there. just makes your intake sound louder.

HondaHeddie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by janz3n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep that restrictor plate in after the test.. it doesnt do any good not being in there. just makes your intake sound louder. </TD></TR></TABLE>

if it doesnt do any good.....
does it do any bad to have it out?