4thGenFan

Ok guys so i Just got back from buying a ls (b18a1) with trans for only $100. Supposedly it all is in working order (still bolted together). Now it is complete minus exhaust manifold and a dizzy (which i have a spare one sitting around). Now i have a 88 DX hatch that is super clean with only 165, runs great but misses every now and then cause the secondary injector doesn't get any electricity. So my first plan was to do a mpfi swap to take care of that problem and from what i read i could expect to drop to maybe 15s with that swap on the dx. The ls has some small areas where some oil leaks have built but nothing major, and it was for sure never cleaned up. Since the starter is still on it i am thinking i should be able to jump the starter to turn the motor and be able to do a compression check to give me a descent idea if the internals are still in good shape or not. Does that sound like it would work? I also was wondering since the trans and clutch is suppose to be good could i shift it by hand into a gear then turn motor and watch to see if trans is rotating to give me a descent idea if the clutch will probably grab or not? For a $100 I'm tempted to try swapping it with some cheap $90 ebay motor mounts and grab the rest of what i would need from a pick and pull. What do you guys think? Any tips for checking condition of trans and motor before doing all the work if i do try to swap? Or should i just go mpfi swap and tear the ls down for a complete build up (i kinda want to make a honda drag car to make all the guys with their v8s cry at the local strips lol) I also got a second gen integra i could burrow parts off of if needed for testing purposes.

lonelyhighs

I have a B swapped 1990. You should totally do it. Then later down the road you can LSV swap it for some extra HP. Also don't use ebay mounts. Hasports or something equivalent.
Cheers

4thGenFan

Right now i'm leaning towards stripping it and going a cheap ebay internals and making a track car only. I found rods rated for 900+ hp for under $200 with arp rod bolts. Found nippon pistons that people have used in builds that will dyno 600+ to the wheels for under $200 with rings and wrist pins. Althought i think i will look for forged pistons for more durability. Talked to a buddy that used to make some cash drag racing at the track, he claims if i can get in the 9s i would walk away with like 25K in one day of racing cause no one around here could touch that time. So i'm learning towards dropping a few grand on cheap internals that are rated for upwards of a 1000hp and turbo kit and spray it. Then hope it holds together long enough to make some money at the track before i throw a rod through the block lol. If i go this route i will look for a crx to drop it in. I see cheap crx pop up on craigslist in my area for around 500-600 quite often.

testify

Leave the motor alone and just install it.

kp

These ideas do not co-exist. A cheap 9 second car? You need to reel in your grand plans and start thinking realistically.

You started this thread just asking if you should drop a B engine into your DX, and now you're talking about a full build with cheap parts to somehow blindside everyone at the track and make a bunch of money.

trevdawg

I bought a 90 hatch that had a B16 in it. Dude bought it for his daughter . . She didn't like stick and he sold it. It was fun! I moved on and sold it . . ,

I missed it and no almost 10 years later, I just bought a stock 1989 DX hatch.
I want. To have a fun reliable car so I will probably stick with the D series motors for now.

BLU CIVIC

How did we go from not knowing anything...

...to becoming king of the drag strip in 8 days?

I'm not saying it's not going to happen...but it's not going to happen.