linkdeezie

I have an EF with a b16 swap in it, turbocharged of course. And I seem to be having a overheating issue. I've searched for the normal operating temperature for the B16 and no one has a DEFINITE concrete answer. However, I believe the general consensus is that the engine should be operating between 180-200 degrees after reading various posts from several people over a bunch of different forums. So after either some spirited driving, or inter-county highway test driving, my car surpasses 215 degrees, triggering my check engine light. I'd have to exit the highway, make a u-turn and go back home (roughly 20 miles or so). I do make it before the needle hits the 3/4 mark, no problem, with regular driving. But I can't pinpoint WHY the engine is overheating. All parts I'm about to list have 300 miles or less, so they're fairly new: Skunk2 Alpha 1/2 radiator (the one designed specifically for the EF chassis), new timing belt, (both the mechanical timing as well was electrical/dizzy is set), water pump, mishimoto low temp thermostat, skunk2 radiator hoses, replaced ALL other water transfer hoses with silicon hoses, 50/50 mixture in the radiator, new radiator slim fan running constant, system has been bled for air pockets, NO coolant leaks, new head gasket, passed leakdown test, and roughly 130 psi across the board. I was about to remove the radiator and slap in a full-sized Skunk2 Alpha radiator that i bought, but it doesn't make sense that the 1/2 size radiator isnt able to keep the motor cool, especially since EM1s come stock with 1/2 sized radiators. So, before I put this bigger radiator in, and can't return it for my $200 bux, I'm looking for any other suggestions/input before i go down the "unreturnable" road. Thanks in advanced guys

stampern22

Why do you have your radiator running all the time - I think that might actually hinder your air flow at higher speeds.

linkdeezie

I have the radiator FAN running all the time to keep the contents cooler as long as possible. As soon as the thermostat opens and exchanges the coolant, the hot coolant is being immediately cooled for the next cycle. Shouldn't hinder the airflow unless the fan is in "pusher" mode and still placed in the engine compartment as opposed to the front of the radiator. I also was looking at your EF post earlier. Good score

stampern22

Thanks. I though I read/heard somewhere that the fans aren't setup to turn on and run over 30-35mph because the fan can't spin fast enough so it will actually slow the air down as it goes through the radiator at higher speeds.

linkdeezie

Naaaaaw. Electric fans turn on at every exchange of water between the engine and radiator, or when the coolant temperature sensor reaches a predetermined temperature...regardless of speed.

Creator

iTrader: (1)

What stampern says is true. I doubt this is your problem. Seems like you've blown the head gasket & that's why it's new.....was that from overheating?...was the head milled?
You can't compare an stock EM1 engines cooling needs to your turbo b16. That much should be obvious.
I hope it's been tuned, when was it tuned...how long before the new headgasket? Timing might be off if it was milled, could be higher compression now.
Lots of speculation here, fill us in about the new headgasket.

linkdeezie

LMAO - So NONE of the other "NEW" parts struct a chord?? ONLY the head gasket? Well your speculation is wrong. The headgasket wasnt blown. The reason I put on a new head gasket is because I just assembled this engine. Head wasn't milled. I just didnt think it would be wise to buy an old head gasket and use it...Every Honda I've every owned was turbo except one and thats because I bought the car stock, and then ended up selling it to my uncle a month later. Ive NEVER had this overheating problem. But needless to say, I believe it is now solved. Removed the 1/2 sized radiator and replaced it will a full-sized radiator. Car never passed 161 degrees. Didnt boost it. just drove it. Even without a heatshield on the turbo set-up, its still kept its cool

Creator

iTrader: (1)

All your other parts are self explanatory man, clearly you've been chasing after the overheating issue. Most people don't replace a head gasket for overheating unless there are other signs, which you did not mention also you didn't mention anything about assembling an engine. I was fighting the same issues with my NA track car. Through several seasons of tracking it, never had a problem until I started running a dump pipe(took resonator and muffler off). After dancing around it much like you did, I went from a stock full size to an all aluminum radiator. Problem solved.

But needless to say, I believe it is now solved. Removed the 1/2 sized radiator and replaced it will a full-sized radiator. Car never passed 161 degrees. Didnt boost it. just drove it. Even without a heatshield on the turbo set-up, its still kept its cool

I think I get what your saying here, but your jumping all over the place.

linkdeezie

Don't see how I'm jumping all over the place. And I also don't see how you consider "all the other parts self explanatory". And you are assuming that I've been chasing the overheating issue. You again assume incorrectly. I haven't been chasing it. It had just started. Like I said, I built the engine and then the problem arose. The REASON i listed all the new parts is/was because if I had originally only said "hey, my car is overheating. I need help. any suggestions?" people would have came with a million guesses as to what the problem was. So, to avoid that, I listed all the NEW parts the car has, so it would eliminate someone coming with a "guess" as to what was wrong. One person would have suggested the waterpump. Another would have suggested the radiator. Someone else would have asked if there was water in the oil and then suggested headgasket. I wanted to avoid all that so that's why in the original post, i noted all the new parts beforehand. Notice how i didnt get 101 answers with suggestions, but a bunch of people viewed the post?