crxaddikt

someone broke my drivers window during a break-in a year ago, i got a good window at junkyard and installed it exactly how it supposed to be done, and used 3M Window Weld, which i got for $18 bucks at PepBoys, and used a caulking gun to apply it, and i let it dry for 48 hours or more.

the window has been rolling up and down perfectly since i installed it, and one day i realised it started popping off of the track on the rear of the window, so i had to line it up with my hands while slowly rolling it back up in position.

i took the door panel off to see what the problem was, and i saw that the window came out of one of the tabs, and i saw a chunk of the black rubber window weld stuff on the bottom of the door, so that explained why it was getting off track, and the other tab was still glued to the window good.

so i need to re-do and adhere the window to that tab again, and wanted to first see if i should use the same window weld i did before originallly ? or should i go with something else such as Automotive GOOP! brand silicone adhesive or something ???

i'm not sure why it did'nt hold good, but i know i had a piece of trim on the top outside of the door that was popping off where it interfered with rolling the window up, so that could of played part in forcing the window away from the tab ? along with the weather stripping being a little bent in some places.


and if i re-do and glue the tab to the window, would i need to take the window and tabs out of the door completely and clean all the stuff off that tab before putting new adhesive in it ? or not ?

when i first put the adhesive on the tabs, i did it while the window was in the door, having someone help lift window up while i squirted the window weld into the tabs slots with caulking gun then letting window down and set it into the tabs, rolling window all the way up to let it set and dry for 48 hrs.

i just don't want it to seperate from the tabs again anytime in the future, and wanted people's opinions or help so i can make sure i do it right this time.

thanks

EFnCRX

iTrader: (1)

i would use rearview mirror glue for glueing the mirror to the windshield that stuff is really strong!

crxaddikt

i always read that 3M brand Window Weld adhesive is the kind that professionals use at window shops and stuff, so thats why i used that in the first place,

it could be that the trim on outer top of door that popped loose, was in the way and forced the window off the tab, and maybe i should just use the window weld again but just make sure there is'nt anything interfering in the window track ?

on the other hand, my drivers window was busted into a year ago, so good chance the regulator is bent a little or messed up, cause that happened after my passenger side window was busted into a long time ago, and has had a messed up regulator since then,

only thing weird is the drivers window was working perfectly for several months after i first installed the window, so if the regulator was messed up then it probably would of done something earlier ?

but i might give GOOP! silicone adhesive a try since some people said had good results, plus i have used it for all types of things over the years with good results too.

i'll look into the rearview mirror stuff your talking about to see what more people say, thnks


anyone else have more thoughts on which is best adhesive to use for glueing window to tabs ??

Spug

I'm pretty sure I used construction adhesive on one once and it's been fine ever since, and it was years ago.

TearSDMF89dx

i always use 3m automix channel bonding adhesive as it is designed for gluing the tabs onto windows .....window weld is used for windshields and windows with a large surface are to be glued it doesnt have the bite needed for small applications....and be sure to remove all old adhesive from the items being glued ....you can get it at napa

crxaddikt

i researched a lot before doing it, and everyone said you got to do it using only 3M Window Weld, cause it has the right amount of soft or harness to it, cause said there needs to be a little slight movement after its dried within the tabs, so the window does'nt crack when its moved or something, so since reading that, i don't really want to risk using another type of product.

i am going to call a few window installation shops around here to just ask them and see what they say.

but when i did buy that window weld, i did'nt realise that there might be different types of window weld, and maybe i got the wrong type of window weld ??, i know its black in color, and i thought it would be a clear color, like most silicone type stuff.

since the one i got was black colored, maybe it was meant more for using on windshields like around the weatherstripping and black rubber sealers and stuff ??? and not meant for glueing the bottom edge of a door window to plastic tabs ??


it has to be real strong, cause it exerts a lot of force in different directions when you are manually rolling a window up or down, and the only connection between the glass window and the regulator that controls the rolling up & down is the plastic tabs at the bottom of the window's edge.

TearSDMF89dx

thats why i reccomened the channel bond its still flexible it just has a stronger glue....ive never had a single problem with it and i use it at least once a month in my shop and i have used it on everything from daily beaters to all out show cars

crxaddikt

thanks for telling me about that stuff,

cause i googled it and saw how there were posts on several different forums where someone asked what to use to glue the window to the plastic tabs, and they all answered with "3M Automix Channel Bond Adhesive",

so after reading the proof from a lot of different sources online and taking your advise, i'm going to give that a try, but i want to save as much money as i can, and someone said they sell a special dispenser gun that delivers equal parts of the Automix stuff through a mixing nozzle, but they said that you can push out equal quantities of both and mix them by hand.

i would want to do it that way to avoid the cost of the dispenser gun thing if possible.

i'll check NAPA to see if they carry it and what the price is.

and i will just becarefull now after its done, cause the weather stripping and rubber channel grooves the window go along on my drivers side have some bunched up parts and stuff, so i got be carefull that it does'nt make the window get stuck where i'm forcing it while doing the rolling up, cause thats the type of thing that can break it out of the tab slot again maybe, also could have funny regulator, and i was going to check that and take it out and see if it looked bent anywhere, and if so try to straighten it back better.

i have silicone spray to lube the tracks and i sprayed that when i originally put window in but i will do it again and put even more this time.

crxaddikt

i have one more question i wanted to ask you,

my car is a 90 crx and i needed to know if that rubber weatherstripping on the top edge of the inner door panel hooks over the metal of the body of the inside door ? or does it just go against it ? ( like when you bolt the door panel back on the door, does that top rubber edge somehow hook around the top metal edge of the top of the inner door ? or bolt where it just is against it? )

cause if i have that wrong then it would affect how tight the window is held in place, cause the outter weatherstrip holds the window between the inner weatherstrip thing so if you hook the one on the inner over door top edge then it would be closer and hold the window in place better, if it was'nt then probably have more room to move around . . .

thanks

TearSDMF89dx

if memory serves the inner strip hangs over the sheet metal door lip thus "hanging"the door panel in place

crxaddikt

if thats the case, then i have'nt been doing it right whenever i put the door panels back on, which might cause something to not be lined up right maybe, regarding the window position,
i also had a loose trim/molding piece that goes on top of the door on the outside, cause its not clipped in place or something, and that molding has a gap if you look downward at it, when it supposed to be tight against the bottom of window (on outside top of door), so i need to fasten that properly and put the door panels on correctly, then the window would be held in place between the door panel and the metal door body part.

thnx

zrickety

iTrader: (1)

The 3m window weld is one of the best adhesives in the world. If the tab came loose from the window, they weren't clean when you put it on. Take it all apart, scrape and clean off the old, clean (I use rubbing alcohol), and reapply. It should outlast the car.

huldafolk

you need to use the 3M primer for the window weld to get a good grip on the glass. apply for 10 sec prior to the placement of the urethane adhesive.

crxaddikt

alright, thanks for those extra tips, its good to know, i'll be sure to do those things when i re-do it.

i never heard of the 3M primer stuff your talking about ?, even when i originally was researching how to do all of this a year ago before doing the window install, everyone said to use 3M window weld and also to clean with rubbing alcohol, but not one person mentioned using 3M primer stuff to make it adhere better, so i'll do that, cause anything to help it stick better this second time around would help.

thanks

fritzpetre123

I know this thread is old but this happened to me on my ek, and I used gorilla glue and it is good now.

crxaddikt

i know its an old thread, but its still good for you to post that, so other people hear another good tip from somone who has had experience and had good results from it, cause i really did'nt even think about that when i was thinking of ways to glue the tabs, but i have heard of gorilla glue and used it before, and i know its really super strong, and i've used it to glue wood, masonite, foamboard, illustraion board, soles on shoes that were peeling, and to glue plastic pieces together, but did'nt know it could be used on glasss too!,

i never ended up glueing the tabs back on for that window, instead i chose to just buy a brand new window which was cheaper than i thought, i did'nt knokw and should of checked before, but instead i just went and got mine at junkyard for $50, but its only $60 for the new one of that same window, so i decided on getting new one so i don't have to worry weather or not the tabs i glued were going to hold up or fall off one day and have the window fall down into the door and shatter, i would feel better with a new one since the tabs come glued from the factory which you know are done the right way,

so i ended up glueing the tabs i had to the junkyard window so i can try to sell it and make some money back from it, but i did'nt want to spend money on stuff like 3m products, so i just used clear silicone goop to glue them, and after that was all dry, then i put an outter layer of rtv black silicone gasket maker covering farther out to maybe help it stay bonded better, i put an ad for sale on craigslist for $30 but have'nt sold it yet, one asked if i would sell it for $20, but i said no, cause for that much, then i mise well just keep it for myself, to have a spare in case i need one again in the future.

Doh!

The key here is to replace the window channel gasket once it starts getting messed up. Many Honda parts sites still have them, just got one for my 89 Si because mine was screwed up.

crxaddikt

is the window channel gasket the rubber seal that goes along the front part inside the door, vertically, that the window runs along ?

or is it the rubber seal the window rolls along on the backside and top side ? that it lines up with ?

the one on the front on mine is fine and not messed up at all, but i did adjust it best i could to make the window fit good.

on my passenger window, the rubber is messed up and folded inward on the area on the outside of the door at the back top corner, so sometimes i have to run a flathead screwdriver along it to unfold it while i roll the window up and line it up into it.

another thing to make sure is that you install the door panels back correctly, cause i did'nt, and for a long time i did'nt know until recently i found out i was supposed to hook the top of the door panel over the door, and i just had it againt the door on the inside side, so i put it the rigth way so its over the doors, and afterward my windows rolled up tighter and more secure since the rubber window seal on the top of the door panels were hooked over the doors, cause then they go up against it tighter, and the way i had it there was more of a gap causing the window to move around more especially if half way open and driving on highway.