VtecSyndrome

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

As I stated pm6 is not the same as a pr3.

For example the **** that is wrong:

A04 needs to go to the engine bay for Vtec solenoid. This is where a subharness comes in play so you can convert to obd1 oxygen sensor, and vtec, knock.

B08 is for Powersteering. Why would you hook this up? I guess unless you are running this harness in a 90-91 Integra or have converted your CRX to power steering it will benefit you.

D03 is for Knock Sensor and you have it hooked up to the ELD (b19)? why?

D06 is for vtec oil pressure switch and you have it hooked up to B05 which is clearly not for it.

D14 is for the oxygen sensor and you have it hooked up to C08 which is EGR VLS. The EGR VLS pinout is D12 (for your info)


Oh yeah is your vtec working? Your not throwing a O2 Cel are you?

But good luck you guys. I'm off of this thread apparently there are like 3 different conversions going on in this thread that don't really relate to the Thread Topic.

Peace,
Shane</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, looks like you are right since it sounds like you actaully have the info down. I was just throwing in my 2cents but Like I said I was not really paying attention to his chart since I had nothing to reference it to...............oh well hope he figures it out either way, gotta check the wiring, no way around it!

HiProfile

CR-V-tech - If you bothered to poke around the boomslang site, you'd have noticed that they now offer two versions - one for a MPFI vehicle (Si, Ex, Hf) and DPFI vehicles (DX, LX, STD). I got my harness before they offered the other, so I had decided to keep the harness intact and resolder the car's wiring to the obd0 male connector. Check their page for the updated install PDF, its helpful.

IIRC, a dpfi car basicly needs the one crank sensor moved to other pins, the new sensor put on those newly opened slots, vtec/IAB/knock (all 3 optional), o2 wires, and two more injector wires. I think that you might have to change the existing injector wires to different pins, I'm not sure. Follow the injector wires out, see which ones connect to which, and consult an OBD1 diagram/chart like on this page. If it was the sensors, you'd have CELs but it might still start. Improper injector wiring could induce non-start, bad idle/accel, backfiring, flooding, etc.


As mentioned above, assuming your wires are correct (especially if you didn't do them yourself) is one of the biggest mistakes you can make. Hassport has a good rep, but bad luck happens to everyone on occation. As I look at it, you can't do much else to the car with this roadblock up, so why not spend some time tracing wires? I know it sucks, but what have you got to loose?

Blue Hybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As I stated pm6 is not the same as a pr3.

For example the **** that is wrong:

A04 needs to go to the engine bay for Vtec solenoid. This is where a subharness comes in play so you can convert to obd1 oxygen sensor, and vtec, knock.

B08 is for Powersteering. Why would you hook this up? I guess unless you are running this harness in a 90-91 Integra or have converted your CRX to power steering it will benefit you.

D03 is for Knock Sensor and you have it hooked up to the ELD (b19)? why?

D06 is for vtec oil pressure switch and you have it hooked up to B05 which is clearly not for it.

D14 is for the oxygen sensor and you have it hooked up to C08 which is EGR VLS. The EGR VLS pinout is D12 (for your info)


Oh yeah is your vtec working? Your not throwing a O2 Cel are you?

But good luck you guys. I'm off of this thread apparently there are like 3 different conversions going on in this thread that don't really relate to the Thread Topic.

Peace,
Shane</TD></TR></TABLE>

just want to remind, we are all here to find the right answers.

the conversion harness i made works, my car is a 1990 ef with a b16a Non OBD, converted to run a p28

so yes, the car runs. also, the pr6 is NOT the same as a PW0 or PR3, you are right about that, but plug a pm6 onto a b16a non obd, and it runs, minus vtec. thats what i mean by they are almost the same.

but i appreciate the response, maybe there is something i dont know about, but mine works

89eFRACER

Okay i did my SOHC Vtec swap perfectly, but there one last problem the engine will not rev up i don't know wut the problem is it starts and everything the engine just will not rev up, me and some friends are thinking it is just some censors or something. Also i took off my headers and there a litle bit of oil dripping out the first whole; does any one have any ideas on wut censor that could be keeping the engine from revvin.

CP9A6M

Does anybody know which of the two solid black wires on a 4 wire o2 sensor is the heater and which is the constant 12v or does it matter? That's all I need to figure out and I'll be done with my conversion.

Rywire

polarity dosent matter

aeonsi

I'm also new into this conversion and I've noticed that the p28's need a VSS. I currently have a b16 and J1 tranny w/o a vss. If I convert over to a p28 do I need to add a VSS? none of the writeups I've read mention anything about it.

4thgenhtch

Vtec needs the vss but, you can chip it to ignore it..

661rex89si

great stuff good thread

Jonknee

B14 - ALT --&gt; D09 - ALT
I didnt see this on here

civicdust

the obd0 side is looking at it from where the ecu plugs connect right?(for conversion)
and the obd1 from the back of the wiring, correct?

egb16pg

useful thread

dougshatch

Hi, there are alot of these charts floating around, but i found they are all wrong. I sat down and figured it out with a friend, made my own harness, and it all works fine.

edit: let me check my harness again, then ill repost
Non OBD-OBD1 conversion
PR3 P30
A01 A01
A02 A23
A03 A03
A04 A24
A05 A05
A06 OPEN (A20?)
A07 A02
A08 A04
A09 OPEN
A10 A20
A11 A09
A12 A07
A13 A25
A14 A07
A15 B1
A16 A26
A17 OPEN
A18 B2

B01 D01
B02 OPEN
B03 A15
B04 A12
B05 D06
B06 A13
B07 OPEN
B08 B05
B09 OPEN
B10 B11
B11 OPEN
B12 B12
B13 B09
B14 A16
B15 A21
B16 B10
B17 A21
B18 OPEN
B19 D03
B20 D04

C01 B15
C02 B16
C03 B13
C04 B14
C05 D15
C06 D13
C07 D11
C08 D14
C09 B08?
C10 D02
C11 D17
C12 D22
C13 D20
C14 D21
C15 D19
C16 D14



IS THOSE WRONG OR WHAT?

b16dissorder

will this also work with the p72 ecu?

turbodan

honda-1990 jdm

Hey i was wondering are you really selling obd0 to obd1 subharness or do you mean ecu harness?Well if you sell the sub harness for the conversion of obd0 to obd1 then i would like to see a pic of it. And also when you do the harness do you sell the harness or do you want the harness and then just do the wiring for us like rywire? Thanks

efjones9

any1 have any pics of the homemade jumper???

Malgerus

Here is another useful link:

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f55/...inouts-217405/

OBD-I ecu pinouts

"These are the pin designations for the OBD1 ECU as well as their wire color and voltage. I always have a hard time finding this information when I need it as I'm sure others do, so here it is

KEY:
(voltage values measured in DC Volts unless otherwise specified)
V = Volts
Wht = White
Blk = Black
Grn = Green
Yel = Yellow
Brn = Brown
Blu = Blue
Org = Orange

KOEO = Key On Engine Off
KOER = Key On Engine Running

A, B, D= Slot. Numbers are read up and down from left to right, not straight across (see diagram at end)."

A1-INJ1 INJECTOR#1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJECTOR#4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJECTOR#2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, n/a
A5-INJ3 INJECTOR#3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor heating element Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11-EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has it) Red, n/a
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, n/a
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, n/a
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, n/a
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, n/a
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, n/a
A18-Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), n/a
A19-White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, n/a
A21-ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22-Igniter, same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to ground Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V

B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, <1V
B3-Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B4-Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, a/c input, ~5V with KOEO & A/C off; <1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7-Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), <1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a

D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, n/a
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, ~5V (M/T); ~11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, n/a
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, n/a
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, n/a
D11-TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12-Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, ~1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor input Yel/Blu, ~5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor signal Red/Yel, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF (no info)
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, ~3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18-Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), n/a
D19-Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D20-Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D21-Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
D22-Green/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V

crx-newbie

everybody here is soo smart about cars...

88rexwidebody

hey guys, i'm running into some issues with this kinda crap i have an 88 rex hf, got a multipoint manny, 89 si wiring harness for multipoint conversion, was wandering what else i need, ive been told an 89 si dizzy and ecu but im not for sure, just curious if the obd0-obd1 conversion has ever even been attempted on the stock 88 hf ecu. any answers would be great wiring diagrams and other useless info would be dope as well. pm me with any links or anything else pertaining to the swap, and also lookin for anyone in colorado to maybe assist me with this lil accomplishment. thanks so much for the time and help in advance!

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

If you are using an 88 HF ECU, you are not converting to OBD1. The whole point is to convert the harness so that an OBD1 ECU will run the car. Take a look at when this thread was created, since then various companies now sell OBD conversion adapter harnesses.

spcrxracer

iTrader: (1)

88rexwidebody

alright, so i DO need to get an si obd1 ecu. what else do i need to do or need to get for this project got wire and all the misc. junk and all kinds of other crap. what else do i need? just the 88-89 si dizzy?

Deetz

Your obd designation is determined by both the ecu and distributor. For both civic's and integra's, OBDI was released in 1992, so yes, you need a new computer

PPAW11SC

In the process of swapping in a D16Z6 this info will be one of my best friends haha.