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I'm trying to do 4 things with two hands: Hold paperclip in B plug, hold probe to that, hold another probe on body ground.
In cases like this^, I use multimeter probes with alligator clips. For example:
Then you can just clip the black alligator to the metal frame under the dash (ground) and clip the red alligator to the paper clip inserted into the unplugged ECU connector pin to measure voltage ---> Neither hands nor depinning required.
After a looooong struggle, I finally got B17 depinned. There is no voltage there. That B plug on ECU is such a pain, my tiniest screwdriver can depin every other connector on the car, but won't fit in the B plug. I ended up using an extremely pliable paperclip, which of course bends when you put any pressure on it. Off to try and get B15.
EDIT: got eem! Results aren't much better than last night: 0.24v at B17, 0.35 at B15. Nowhere near ~10v. Did some continuity tests too, mixed results: neither pin has continuity to ground. (I think that's good?) But neither pin has continuity to any pin in C210 or C211.
In other news, my ignition switch has just about died right in front of my eyes. Down to about 20% success rate priming pump in "on" position.
After a looooong struggle, I finally got B17 depinned. There is no voltage there. That B plug on ECU is such a pain, my tiniest screwdriver can depin every other connector on the car, but won't fit in the B plug. I ended up using an extremely pliable paperclip, which of course bends when you put any pressure on it. Off to try and get B15.
EDIT: got eem! Results aren't much better than last night: 0.24v at B17, 0.35 at B15. Nowhere near ~10v. Did some continuity tests too, mixed results: neither pin has continuity to ground. (I think that's good?) But neither pin has continuity to any pin in C210 or C211.
In other news, my ignition switch has just about died right in front of my eyes. Down to about 20% success rate priming pump in "on" position.
As you did to fix the fuel injector power issue, run a new (Wht) wire from C313 to ECU connector B pins 15 & 17, though it would be wise first to depin the Wht wire in C313 to see if the open is found there.
Last edited by muellersfan; 11-09-2018 at 11:08 AM.
Ignition switch is completely gone now. New Ignition coil lasted a matter of hours. I can't even do basic troubleshooting without frying electrical components. I love this car, and I will definitely return to this project, but I need to change gears for now. My income is dependent upon having a working vehicle and I haven't worked for almost 3 weeks. My old Blazer starts and runs, I just need to figure out why the brake light is on so it can pass inspection and I can get back to work. The lil civic seemed far easier (and cheaper) to work on for the past year and up until recently, it was very reliable. It's also about 3x more efficient than that jacked up 4x4 chevy (30mpg vs 11). But right at this moment I cannot afford to spend the time and resources on the EF. I promise to return here as soon as I can in hopes that this thread can help other HT members in the future. I can't thank @muellersfan enough for the patient, knowledgeable advice along the way, it has been incredibly comforting to share my Honda problems with Honda experts. I will be back as soon as I possibly can, my plan for the rest of today is to yank that ignition coil I blew up yesterday and see if O'Rielly's will replace it, yank the monotech harness and send it out to Cali for mono to inspect, push my favorite lil Honda off the concrete pad and see what I can do about my Blazer's brakes. Will return here just as fast as I can.
Hey guys! I wish I could wrap this thread up nicely and tell you exactly what was wrong but I don't really know. After my hatch just sat in the driveway 15 or 16 months I ended up throwing parts at her and she runs now. Parts included a junkyard ignition switch, junkyard ECU, brand new reman distributor, a brand new coil, and I also siphoned out some very bad gas, treated what I couldn't remove, and filled up with fresh. I'll never know if the ignition switch was needed because I threw out the old one, but I'm now pretty sure that everything else was necessary. Old coil tests bad for secondary resistance. The cheapo ebay dizzy that ran for 9 months no longer starts the car. The PM6 ECU that I was using throughout this thread will not start the car either, it throws codes 4,15,20. My chipped ECU started the car, and throws no codes but I'm not sure it's capable of blinking the LED anymore. I happened to pick up a 3rd PM6 at the junkyard a few days after she started, it also works and throws no codes so I'm feeling good. Again, I wish I could narrow my problems to one thing, but it seems like all these parts went bad at once. (except that one ECU, which was purchased after the catastrophe and still does not work) Anyways, the good news is that my ef is now zipping around Austin again, I just wanted to update this thread before I start asking swap questions or asking for AC advice.
My no start didn’t have voltage at the injectors either
i swapped ecu’s dizzys injectors deleted the resistor box swapped main relays
but as soon as I swapped out the brand new fuel pump That was like I just said brand new!
it fired right up
im pretty sure I burned up the brand new pump and needed another because I burnt it out cranking cranking cranking it while I was trying to figure what was the problem I was making the problem in a way. How I did that. I had low amount of gas in the tank and I had the wrong sock strainer I watched a YouTube video to buy the correct one. And the shop that installed it pinched the fuel line between the body and gas tank so thanks for that
the pump that the shop installed got me home the day they installed it even around town for a week with but would die at stops so I stopped driving it and started chasing ghosts
11-09-2018, 07:10 AM
Re: No Voltage at injectors
As you did to fix the fuel injector power issue, run a new (Wht) wire from C313 to ECU connector B pins 15 & 17, though it would be wise first to depin the Wht wire in C313 to see if the open is found there.
