2x0

Chance EG

I can almost guarantee it's the axles, based on what's happening now. As for what's the right axle set for a B series CRX, I have no idea (didn't Si-R CRX come with B16's from the factory? Whatever axles those use should work in theory, but I have never worked on these or done research for CRX).

Random input - Progress has excellent customer service, don't hesitate to call them if you have some suspension questions. Otherwise you may want to contact DSS, Hasport, or Insane Shafts and see what they say about your problem and the axle lengths.

2x0

2x0

2x0

Little update here. Over the winter I replaced the steering rack, inner and outer tie rods with all new components, reset my alignment, and my shuddering persists. I am keeping the car raised up to near stock ride height for now to minimize the issue.

Since I have now replaced literally every component that secures the wheels in place, I guess the only thing left is to save up for a set of Raxles. Hoping to get a set sometime this summer and will post results.

Edit: Also last fall I had replaced front LCA's, so all the bushings are new too.

sumdewd

You can't go wrong with Raxles. Although they are pricey, the customer service and quality are both on point. I've had mine for about 8 years now and just recently sent them in for new boots and only paid shipping. Marty even gave me new boxes that I actually kept this time.

2x0

Update.

Problem is solved. DSS axles did the trick. I'm sure Raxles would have worked as well.

What it boils down to, is cheap aftermarket axles have crappy inner CV joints that don't work well at severe angles.

Tyson

thanks for the update.

love how it was exactly what you said it wasnt...

2x0

Haha exactly!

I just couldn't get my head around how so many sets of aftermarket axles had the exact same issue. But I think I get it now.

spoolin2bars

Damnit, Probably what's going on with mine. Just barely driven it, (since rebuild after sitting 8yrs) and i have other bugs to work out, but i did notice a vibration that the car never had before in the few miles I have driven it. Really having a bad time with re-man parts i've had to buy for this thing. Also hear a squeak like rubber parts rubbing together. Wonder if it's the axle boots?

2x0

Can you give a rundown on the setup? Chassis, engine, trans, what axles....

kraquepype

Sounds like my issue too, just got my car after having a B swap done and it shudders the same way you described.

I have insane shafts axles though, how is their support?

2x0

I haven't heard the best things about insane shafts. They are basically your budget axle option for a build, and they may or may not last at their rated HP.

Go with DSS or Raxles and I am sure your problem will be resolved. You must have axles specifically for your swap in your chassis.

kraquepype

Yeah I should have gone with Raxles, I had them before but the shop working on the car suggested IS, I should have looked into it more. Will be checking with them.

How high up did you have to raise your car before it helped the shaking? I got the car up maybe 1/2 inch but still lower than stock and still shaking.

I have a hydro trans, but want to see if this is normal - axles can't seat any further in the intermediate shaft from what I can tell, but I can't find anything definitive online. There is some play from side to side.

2x0

That is how the DSS axles look when fully seated also. They have different joint design than OEM replacement shafts for a stronger inner CV joint. Looks like insane shaft uses the same concept.

I had to raise my car up to basically stock height. I had like 3.5" of fender gap in the front. This made the shaking almost indiscernable, but not completely gone.

The DSS axles have no play whatsoever in the joints.

kraquepype

Thanks a lot, I'll look into DSS axles as well. Waiting for coilovers to come in so I can adjust the height up to see if I have the same experience.

KPDSM

I'm having this issue and I literally cannot believe ALL the axles I have purchased are bad but I guess you guys are right?

I swapped a b20 in an ef civic hatch. First time I took it out - it ran great. I got it back in the garage - added a traction bar - and my car vibrates like HELL now. Like it's not supposed to vibrate like that, I've had a swapped b series ek before and it vibrated but compared to this it was BUTTER.

It's been 8-12 weeks of me going over the car every weekend.

I've tried 2 new (different) passenger axles - one napa one carquest - the passenger wheel bearing, raising the ride height, all the brake hardware, replaced wheel studs, the dust shield, I have my dust ring removed in the hub and the abs ring knocked off the axle.

I basically did every thing this thread says. I built this car bc it came with a blown d16 so everything is already new. New suspension all around new mounts new exhaust like everything new.

I am getting that same noise like the motor is moving around if I let the car roll and then slam the brakes. I could swear the t bracket is vibrating the whole car bc it shifts back and makes contact with the frame. But the t bracket bolt is/was tight. And my clearance from t bracket to fire wall is TIGHT but doesn't look like it actually hits.

I can NOT believe that 3 axles are bad for this swap - but maybe you're right.

My plan of attack - I have removed the intake manifold and the rear motor mount and t bracket. The t bracket I'm using is aftermarket. I've ordered an OEM 90-93 integra t bracket (using innovative 60a mounts)
No way BRAND NEW innovative mounts are bad.

I'll try the new t bracket & monitor my motor position when I reinstall. I had to cut some material where the t bracket actually goes, but again. I don't think this is the problem.

If a DA t bracket doesn't fix it, I'll try ANOTHER passenger axle. I already have new half shaft as well.

I can't believe ALL these axles suck from all these places. What's the point of remanning axles if so many of us are having issues with them? Do they only work on their native car? Do they even work then?

Thanks for reporting back about this and it being an axle (for you). At this point idk what it is or what I want it to be. My alignment is off but not enough to cause the current problem.

Ill get back after this bracket comes - I really am beyond frustrated about this...motor went in no problem but hunting this down is exhausting...I should be driving and enjoying this thing.

kraquepype

Good luck, my car still does vibrate on throttle around 30-40MPH but it improved slightly when I had the ride height brought up a little.

Which traction bar did you use? Was the caster set as part of alignment? First thing I would have done before anything else is try putting back the OE front bar and radius rods and see if it is indeed the cause. Not sure what else has changed since that, but the way I read your post that was point where the issue started. That said unless the caster is way off I can't see how the traction bar would cause this.

​​​​​​​Is this happening in gear or in neutral? Are you engine braking when hitting the brakes?

As for axles, if you narrow it down to them being an issue go with a set of Raxles, their support is top notch. I haven't swapped mine yet but am pretty confident they would resolve my issue. With a B swap the angle of the axles is a bit extreme (at least with my setup) so I can see where poor quality axles will have issues. At this point though it sounds like you have other issues to resolve.

KPDSM

Trac bar i used was/is 1320 performance. I never drove it with the OE radius rod/subframe. Which is one of the reasons I dont suspect it. I also disconnected it and tried to drive it without trac bar and it still vibrates like hell. I would agree that thats not the issue, just noting thats what I'm going through. I haven't been to alignment rack yet - as soon as I can get this figured out that's my FIRST stop.



Doesn't matter. I have a side street by my house that I can get through first and second WOT...as soon as I get out of second I smash brakes and I feel like I can hear the engine moving. If I slip the clutch in first, same thing. Feels like the engine is rocking back and forth but I dont understand why considering the t bracket is new, the mounts are new, and the bolts are tight. I've ordered a da T bracket as the t bracket i was using was a 1320 t bracket (theyre local to me). I plan to loosen driver and pass mount, reinstall the back mount, and try and prybar the engine forward a little bit. I've had issues with mounts and brackets before, so I'm hoping this DA bracket solves SOMETHING bc its oem. So I guess the short answer is - both lol. In neutral or in gear.

I've rasied the car up to 3ish finger gap at the fender with the same thought of extreme angle causing the issue - didn't do sh*t.


Axles - check this out
I had what I think was an OEM axle (craigslist) - vibrated
Swapped it for a napa axle - vibrated
Swapped that for a CarQuest axle - that vibrated too.

I really am having a hard time wrapping my mind around the idea that ALL these axles are bad. My b20 EK had autozone axles BOTH SIDES and I never broke one or had a vibration ONCE. This makes me think something is up with my motor position or SOMETHING else.

Long story short for MY fiasco - this thing ran/felt AWESOME the first time I got it together. I didn't know that I needed to change the oil seal - so my first couple rides it leaked trans fluid everywhere. Once I found out about the oil seal, I actually PULLED the motor again because I was weary about having a rear main seal leak (same sort of area as that oil seal) and didn't want to leave it up to chance. I put a new rear main in and sealed it up nice, and got the new oil seal as I'm using yonaka half shaft for 94+ teg. I got it back in no problem, but ever since I did that rear main, I have the vibration. Half shaft is straight - driver axle (95 integra) has no issue. Only thing I can think is the back mount/t bracket is f*cked somehow, or I really am getting defective axles over and over.

I'm so frustrated lol.

kraquepype

The way I read your previous post, it sounded like the issue started after the trac bar, sorry for misreading.

I'd focus on the engine movement you feel. Because the car drove well before you had everything out again, I wouldn't suspect axles or anything else until you can figure out whats going on with the engine mounting.

See if you can observe the movement, is it completely front-to-back or is it twisting?
Are there any cracks in the subframe or the body mount points for the side mounts?
Are the rubber/poly bushings looking good? Are the metal bushings that go in the center of the poly bushings present and in good shape?
Are any bolts cross threaded or bottomed out giving the illusion of "tightness"?
You said everything is tight, but go over it again. Remove and reinstall all the mounts if you have time.

Best of luck, I know it can be frustrating to get things feeling right. But once it's done and you can enjoy the car it will be worth while.

KPDSM

No apology needed sir - many thanks actually.
Yeah, the bracket should be here today or tomorrow. I hope it comes today so I can jam on it tonight but if not I'll have to run a late night saturday or get my work done sunday. I warrantied out one of my "bad" axles - got an 89 teg axle coming in its place, NEW.

I'm going to take a closer look at that rear subframe, though I swore I didnt see any cracks I'll check all 3 mounting points for issues.
Mounts are BRAND NEW and they look good... the collars have a little marking on the inside but dont look cracked or damaged. Sidebar - I have a set of yonaka mounts for ef as well that are unused....toying with the idea of trying them but innovative HAS to be better quality.

Remove and reinstall of all mounts coming right up sir....good idea. Probably a good idea to head to hardware store and replace the bolts that go thru the mounts too eh?

KPDSM

My issue is mostly resolved.
Truthfully - I think my issue was a kinked brake line. I unbolted my calipers on both sides, as well as all the spots where the brake line bolts on...and then held it so it would "untwist". Resnaked my lines, and instead of having it bolted on @ 3 spots (2 on the shock body one on the knuckle arm) I'm only using one on the shock body and one on the knuckle arm. My vibration has become WAY more mild/acceptable. I still suspect a "better" axle will take it away completely, OR a brand new caliper...but at least the car is driveable down the street now. I have another "new" axle here that I'll swap in one day when I have time and see if it changes the vibration at all. Whenever that happens I'll report back.
I also now suspect some of the shake is in my LACK OF alignment - so once I get my rear control arms and camber kit and get aligned I'll report back as well

KPDSM

Got the problem (i think) solved now, as you can see it was a bish (by the dates of my posts)

So, my issue was twofold...
Somehow the cradle/bracket on the passenger side got bent...
(in the past, on my eks) When I do b swap, I do trans mount, then back mount, then driver mount.
Every time I was bolting trans mount in first, the farthest part of the trans (if you're looking directly at the motor/car, farthest to the left) the trans was making contact with the frame of the car. I should have had a better feeling about it not working, as mounts (even aftermarket) should sile in fairly easily, but I was having to hammer mine in with a non-metal hammer to get it to go, and also, the mount wasn't pivoting at all. it was so sandwiched in there that it couldn't move at all. even with the mount bolted in lightly the motor SHOULD be able to kinda wiggle around and be moved to put into place. in my situation, with the trans mount lightly bolted, it was WEDGED, like the motor wouldn't swing or budge at all once that trans mount was lightly bolted. to get the motor bolted in on the other two spots required all sorts of prybars and what not and it shouldn't.

After I unbent that cradle/ bracket (woodblock and a hammer), that mount now slips right in, and being lightly bolted I then easily could swing to get the driver's side mount in, and then did the t bracket last. definitely out of my regular order but the only struggle I really had was I had to remove the intake manifold to get the t bracket in...was having a bish of a time trying to do that t bracket from underneath/on my back.

i am fairly sure the problem is fully solved now as all my mounts are bolted down and the clearance from the trans to the body of the car is WAYYYYYY more than it was. these b series motors in ef bodies are TIGHT.

I'm only off work on Sundays, and work been kicking my **** recently so I haven't been working on it after work. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish it up, and test drive to make sure the vibration has gone.

Tyson

Just saying.

KPDSM

if you're looking for a "you were right" - there it is lol
I have an idea how it happened I just never thought it COULD happen - when I took the mounts out, to make sure the bolts didn't get lost, I put them back (what i thought was) lightly in their bolt holes
The passenger mount bolt must have been over tightened, as it "pulled" the back of the bracket in enough to make me have struggles getting the mount in.

I test fit a wood block in the bracket on the driver side, and when it didn't fit as smoothly on the passenger side, I hammered it in. This spread the cradle, bracket back out and allowed me to maneuver the motor WAY easier.