downest

I got the valves all adjusted again, checked twice this time. No more ticks or super loud intake (half lie... the intake is pretty damn loud). Anyway, the engine is stumbling just a bit, but I think some of that is air in the coolant. So anyway, I drove it around campus just a little, and it won't rev past 4000 RPM. It definitely feels and smells like it's running a bit rich, but it stops pretty abruptly around 4000. Anything I could check?

kylefakesi-r

codes? what distributor are you using? i had this issue when i did mine and was using the z6 distributor with a modified tone wheel for the crank signal. the issue i had was repinning at the distributor.

downest

I'm using a Y7 dizzy, it bolts up perfectly. I'm only getting a code for the O2 sensor, running a 1 wire still. The wiring is fine, verified by Ryan (rywire).

crxnj

redlining at around 4k revs? sounds like the ecu is in limp mode..

and its probably running rich because of the o2 sensor situation..so fix that/get rid of the codes..

downest

I thought it was fine to run a 1 wire? It's not cutting at 3500, it definitely gets to just over 4k. I'm going to recheck the cam timing in the morning, I didn't put the washers around the crank pulley for the timing belt. I didn't remember they went there, and my new block only had the little pully. I grabbed them off my blown A6... and the compressor in the shop broke the other day! I have to find somewhere with a compressor to let me get the bolt out so I can put the washers in and reset the cam timing.

ck123

does it rev over 4k in neutral or parking?

jdminthemakin

my y8 did this in my 90 sedan and it came out to be a vacumm leak and timng off

KNOWLEDGE101

what kind of car is it in?

KNOWLEDGE101

What time belt did u use?

downest

It's a Y8 head with an A6 block and ZC pistons. I used a Y8 timing belt (same tooth count as Z6). It's in a 1990 CRX Si, converted to OBD1 with a P28. I suspected a vacuum leak as well, but the manifold (Z6 mani) was on my old A6 before I blew it, and I basically just transferred it over to the new motor. I did screw around with the timing, I couldn't get the car to idle or even start unless I was holding the dizzy a little bit counter-clockwise from where it would bolt up. To compensate for it I advanced the cam gear one tooth at a friend's suggestion, and it worked. It tops out at the same RPM in neutral as well.

The Lobster

well obd-1 requires you to use a 4 wire o2 im pretty sure you are in limp mode

btw im guessing you used the rywire obd-0 to 1 dizzy adapter?

i had same problem with my swap.

NastyHabitzCRX

are you using the y8 cam? the timing is wayy off if you are.
you need an adj cam gear bad. check your static cam timing like now!

downest

When the cam timing is on, the dizzy needs to be about an inch counter-clockwise to run. I advance it a tooth, and it bolts up and runs rich and cuts out near 4000 RPM. Even with the cam timing perfect, and holding the dizzy back, it runs rich, but will freely rev all the way up (looked like it went up to about 8000 RPM though!).

downest

Ok, I went back and advanced the cam one tooth again, and this time it seemed to be fine! It revved up normally at idle and while driving it. I took it out for a spin around campus since everything seemed to be fine. It ran ok, but didn't seem to pull as hard as I remember the A6 (though, it has been about a month since I drove it). Anyway, after about 5 minutes, as I was about to make the last turn to the shop road, it died. I was coming down a slight hill and downshifted into second, and when I slowed down and stopped at a sign it felt weird, then just sort of died twenty feet later, and it wouldn't start. Walked up to the shop and got a wrench to loosen the dizzy, loosened it and found that it started with the timing even more advanced, what the hell?

tigueremalo

check your throtle body and make sure the sensor behind it is working properly
i had the same problem and i changed my throtle body and it was runnig fine after that!!

kylefakesi-r

timing for sure.

the issue i had on mine after i rethought about alot of it was related to my ecu/dizzy guts.

obd1/2 dizzys have 24 tooth crank sensors whereas obd0 uses a 16 tooth gear. unless youa re running a p28 or other obd1/2 ecu you will have some issue with that.

downest

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">timing for sure.

the issue i had on mine after i rethought about alot of it was related to my ecu/dizzy guts.

obd1/2 dizzys have 24 tooth crank sensors whereas obd0 uses a 16 tooth gear. unless youa re running a p28 or other obd1/2 ecu you will have some issue with that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought it was timing too, but why would it change? I am running a P28, Y8 head and Y7 dizzy.

kylefakesi-r

hmm...let me think some more then...my issue was that i stayed obd0

downest

I was thinking it might be an O2 sensor issue. I was told it was fine to keep my 1 wire, so I did. The thing is though, I also installed my DC header, which puts the sensor back near the cat. Obviously, it's not heated, and may not be getting enough back there. This might make some sense of the problem as well, I drove the car for 5 or 10 minutes, maybe as it heated up and started to read the O2 sensor everything was messed up.

beyondspexj

grab a y8 dizzy as they could be different. ( not 100% sure) also is the crank angle sensor still good?? i want to build a boosted mini soon as i find a y8/z6 head so im very interested....

downest

From what I've read and heard, the Y7 and Y8 dizzy are both fine for the swap. The A6 dizzy works as well if you stay OBD0.

beyondspexj

oh ok

downest

So what do you think about the O2 sensor idea?

dxtosirex

It sounds like a wiring problem or you might want to use a z6 distributer instead of a y8.

downest

It's not a wiring problem, it's all been verified by Ryan (Rywire). The Z6 dizzy won't work, it won't bolt up to the Y8 head, though if it did it might work.