gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Yes if you are talented enough. I am 17 and did this virtually by myself. Click on the link below to my build thread. The pictures of what I did are on page 2 or 3. I have a manual transmission, all the mounts needed, and the brackets needed. All you need is the pedals, shift linkage, and a piece of the firewall from a manual car and the clutch cable. Oh and the floor piece for the shifter and the boot for the shifter If needed I could get you those parts from the junkyard as long as you dont need ones with cruise control (if your car has cruise control) Message me if your interested. I'll answer ne questions you have and how to do this swap correctly.

Heres another link I posted pics on

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/automatic-manual-swap-2237928/

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237928

If you want do swap to manual make sure u read this thread!

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

If anyone needs the correct parts let me know. I have a manual transmission, all the mounts needed, and the brackets needed. All you need is the pedals, shift linkage, and a piece of the firewall from a manual car and the clutch cable. Oh and the floor piece for the shifter and the boot for it If needed I could get you those parts from the junkyard as long as you dont need ones with cruise control (if your car has cruise control) Message me if your interested. I'll answer ne questions you have and how to do this swap correctly.

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

You DO NOT NEED TO DROP THE CROSSMEMBER!!! Just use an extension with a socket set and it will fit right behind the mount. You can take the front and side bolt out to push the mount to one side so its easier to get to the rear bolt

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Also DONT FORGET TO REPLACE THE CODER PIN ON YOUR BRAKE PEDAL! when u attach it to the brake booster. It would suck to be going along and find out you have no brakes cause your pedal slipped off the bracket! I didnt put a replacement on til I had installed the dash and put the steering column back up and it was a bitch to get in

attica

or buy a car thats not a auto lol j/k but good info

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

thanks

Todhunter

I've been asked to put the pictures back up for this article - so here is the updated post:

The pedal cluster is in the car. It took me about 3 hours beginning to end, a good chunk of which was spent looking for the hidden bolt. Here's the steps I took:

SEE PICTURE #1
This is the manual pedal cluster sans accelerator pedal that I pulled from an 88 Civic Wagon in my local junkyard. The reason I didn't get the accelerator pedal is because I'm going to keep the one that is already in my car so I don't have to go buy a different accelerator cable. Notice on the cluster there are a total of SEVEN bolts/nuts that hold it on [all marked in red] - four for the brake booster, two for the studs on the firewall, and one bolt that bolts the top of the cluster bracket to the car - this last one is often refered to as the 'hidden' bolt, as you have to pull some of your air ducting to get to this.

SEE PICTURE #2
Drop your fuse access panel and remove the steel knee bolster. It is held on by four 10mm bolts. This is what it should look like after you do that.

SEE PICTURE #3
Take out your driver's seat, which is held in with four 12mm bolts...don't forget to unplug the electric connection going to the seatbelt unit before you pull the seat out. You're going to need all the room you can get. Please excuse the crude 'shop light,' which if my mother saw me using, she would kill me. I did the pedal cluster swap away from my shop with nice drop lights, air compressors, etc.

SEE PICTURE #4
Next you're going to need to remove the steering column cover. There are three phillips head screws on the bottom of the column that hold the bottom part of the cover on [marked in red].

SEE PICTURE #5
There is a large metal ring that hold the top and bottom halves of the steering column cover together. This metal ring is located immediately behind the steering wheel. Use a small flathead to work this metal ring off, then the two halves should just snap apart and come off the column.

SEE PICTURE #6
This is how your column should look without the cover on.

SEE PICTURE #7
Before the steering column can be dropped, you have to clear a bunch of electrical wires that run underneath it. First, there are three plugs that attach to the combination switch on the steering column [the combination switch is the electronic device that has your blinkers, lights, and windshield switches on it]. Unplug these then route the wires out of the way from under the steering column.

SEE PICTURE #8
Next, there is a large electrical connector directly under the steering column that needs to come apart.

SEE PICTURE #9
There is a connector directly above the under-dash fuse panel that needs to be undone so that this wire can get out of the way of the column. The red area is where the other side of the connector is [sorry, my camera doesn't always take the best shots].

SEE PICTURE #10
There is also a connector that plugs onto the under-dash fuse panel that needs to be unplugged. The place it plugs into is highlighted in red.

Todhunter

SEE PICTURE #1
The last wire to get out of the way is the radio antenna. Just pull it out of the back of your stereo head unit. Now all your wires are cleared and you're ready to drop the steering column.

SEE PICTURE #2
To drop the steering column, find this bracket under the dash and remove the two 12mm bolts highlighted in red.

SEE PICTURE #3
The steering column's u-joint boot needs to be loosened. There are two metal rings that snap onto the plastic boot that you need to pull off. Now the boot can be split and allow a little better range of motion for the steering column once you drop it.

SEE PICTURE #4
Highlighted in red are the two 12mm nuts and two 12mm bolts that need to be removed to finally lower the steering column. You're going to need a deep well socket to get the 12mm nuts off. Be sure to either hold it yourself or have a friend hold the steering column as you remove these last four fasteners...the column will drop once they are removed. Lower the column gently to your floorboard.

SEE PICTURE #5
Steering column in the floorboard. I used a piece of string to tie my steering column to the automatic shifter so that it was kind of out of my way.

SEE PICTURE #6
Go ahead and pull out this piece of ducting so that you can access all the fasteners holding the cluster in. There is one phillips head screw that holds the ducting in, and then you just have to pull it out. This is what it looks like once it's pulled out. Getting the ducting back in is a little tricky, but it surely isn't impossible.

SEE PICTURE #7
Next step is disconnecting the brake booster from the brake pedal. There is a cotter pin and a metal pin that hold the booster to the pedal...remove these and the pedal will come loose.

SEE PICTURE #8
A 12mm socket [short and deep well] on a u-joint with a 12" extention are your best bet for getting at the bolts & nuts that hold the pedal cluster in your car. Go ahead and remove the five nuts and one bolt that hold the automatic cluster in the car.

SEE PICTURE #9
Here is a shot of the hidden bolt.

SEE PICTURE #10
Automatic pedal cluster removed. Don't forget to disconnect the throttle cable before you start yanking on your cluster! Also don't forget to unplug the electrical connection on your brake switch.

Todhunter

SEE PICTURE #1
This is where the throttle cable connects to the pedal. This is different from the accelerator pedal that comes with the manual cluster. Unless you want to buy a new throttle cable, you'll need to use the accelerator pedal from the auto cluster. Simply remove a cotter pin and the pedal comes right off. Transfer it to the manual pedal cluster. If your manual pedal cluster doesn't already have a brake switch, transfer the brake switch from the automatic cluster.

SEE PICTURE #2
Installation is reverse of removal. Here's the money shot...everything back together...three pedals under the dash, and an automatic shifter in the background.