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THE LUNCHBOX!

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Old 02-25-2017, 10:16 PM   #201
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Default Re: THE LUNCHBOX!

you lucked out with that, hope there is nothing more to that

you did put a new belt in, right?
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Old 02-26-2017, 12:23 PM   #202
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Fuuu, time to buy a lottery ticket.
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Old 02-26-2017, 03:12 PM   #203
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you lucked out with that, hope there is nothing more to that

you did put a new belt in, right?
I just used the sam belt, there was no wear/tear marks. Its only done a few 1000 kms anyways

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Fuuu, time to buy a lottery ticket.
Probably should ae haha
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Old 02-26-2017, 11:26 PM   #204
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The belt may appear ok, but I wouldn't reuse it given how little a belt costs. Reason I wouldn't reuse it is... well it jumped time. The stresses that happen in that instant as the belt overcomes the cam sprocket are not negligible. It will see a significantly shortened life and is more likely to strip teeth. I was in the same boat, I bought a car that jumped time and smashed some valves. The timing belt had been done in October, car lost time at the end of December. The ContiTech belt that was in there looked immaculate, but for $25 I couldn't risk another timing belt 'event' given that heads for diesel VWs aren't exactly easy to come by or cheap.

I'm not a 'throw money at it' kinda guy, and even I forked out money for a new belt, so I don't say this without reason. Especially for an engine that sees regular high rpms and engine braking, etc... nope nope nope. Fine to use it for a day, a week... but I would order one and replace ASAP
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Old 02-27-2017, 12:33 PM   #205
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The belt may appear ok, but I wouldn't reuse it given how little a belt costs. Reason I wouldn't reuse it is... well it jumped time. The stresses that happen in that instant as the belt overcomes the cam sprocket are not negligible. It will see a significantly shortened life and is more likely to strip teeth. I was in the same boat, I bought a car that jumped time and smashed some valves. The timing belt had been done in October, car lost time at the end of December. The ContiTech belt that was in there looked immaculate, but for $25 I couldn't risk another timing belt 'event' given that heads for diesel VWs aren't exactly easy to come by or cheap.

I'm not a 'throw money at it' kinda guy, and even I forked out money for a new belt, so I don't say this without reason. Especially for an engine that sees regular high rpms and engine braking, etc... nope nope nope. Fine to use it for a day, a week... but I would order one and replace ASAP
True I get what you mean. I'll look into getting a new one, after what you've just mentioned. Car will be sat in garage for a few weeks now anyways. Thanks for the advice mate!
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Old 03-06-2017, 09:56 PM   #206
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So few updates:

I've managed to get my hands on the good old discontinued Fastline Performance shifter, keen to put it in. I am considering purchasing the Innovative shift linkages as they will come with the universal joint thing, as mine is extremely lose and slops everywhere..



Now.. regarding the whole track wheel ordeal I've been on about for some time.. A friend lent me his Buddy club P1's to test fit and if I like I can purchase from him for cheap, they are a 15 x 8 +32 which makes them sit in a little bit compared to my Work Equip 01's. But then I thought what about using my Works for track, I was once told not to use 2/3 piece wheels as they will snap/buckle/explode due to the bolts + dish. But a friend who has a ED track car just did a track day on SSR MK2 which is exactly what I was told not to use in regards to 2/3 piece wheels.. So I did some googling and turns out a lot of MX-5 owners apparently use the Work Equip 01's on track and have no problems, and others use different 2/3 piece wheels on track, even the Osaka JDM 5 Mart folks use their own designed 2/3 piece rim on track.. As I wanted a wider offset on the front and not the rear, the works would be a good idea as well as I can just swap out the barrel for a greater offset barrel, of course thats after finding one... More research/thought continues, please if anyone has knowledge on this topic feel free to comment. Here's some pics with the P1's on car (if i do end up using the Works for track, I'll probably buy the P1's still but use for daily, they look quite neat)

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Old 03-15-2017, 09:58 PM   #207
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So past few days I have been installing my EF9 SiR cluster, I've had it sitting around for maybe half a year now lol.. Just followed a pinout of the cluster against my ED6 workshop manual for the cluster wiring, more of it I was able to just re-pin into the EF9 SiR plugs. Only have the 2 door signals left.. I have photos but for some reason the photo host I use (photobucket) doesn't seem to want to work at the moment, so I'll have to keep trying.
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Old 03-16-2017, 12:32 PM   #208
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Excited to see pics. Love the SiR conversion stuff! Keep it up!
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:03 PM   #209
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Excited to see pics. Love the SiR conversion stuff! Keep it up!
Thanks man! Can never go wrong with SiR!
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:53 AM   #210
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good looking build mate, always seems that the australian cars i find on here are from interstate and nothing else from SA...
might have missed it, but what did you end up doing for your throttle cable? i'd like to avoid looping my oem cable all the way around the engine in my nice clean bay like you have
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Old 03-17-2017, 02:26 AM   #211
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good looking build mate, always seems that the australian cars i find on here are from interstate and nothing else from SA...
might have missed it, but what did you end up doing for your throttle cable? i'd like to avoid looping my oem cable all the way around the engine in my nice clean bay like you have
Thanks mate! Yeah iduno, whats a SA? juuuust kiddin.. more in VIC. I used a SOHC EK throttle cable I believe, you loop it under the manifold and but up the right side to ontop of it!
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Old 03-17-2017, 04:54 AM   #212
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Thanks mate! Yeah iduno, whats a SA? juuuust kiddin.. more in VIC. I used a SOHC EK throttle cable I believe, you loop it under the manifold and but up the right side to ontop of it!
haha sweet thanks, i'll keep an eye out
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Old 03-18-2017, 06:16 PM   #213
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PHOTOBUCKET WORKS! Finally, no idea why it just wouldn't let me load anything the past few days..

So I'll post the photos after this little blurb.. I got the plugs SiR side, labelled each one and then started de-pinning the ED6 ones, as certain wires couldn't just be clipped straight into the SiR ones, actually I used all of them.. Then for whatever was left on the SiR side I just put in spare ones I had, some wires had to be piggy backed to another (going off the guide I was using) but everything was fairly straight forward. Wired in the VSS, the electronic VSS I bought fits, but the bracket to bolt into the gearbox is just too short (shown in one of the pics) so me being me, I just jammed it in there and it works. I will make a bracket or something for it soon, but for now not too bothered.

In 2 of the photos you'll see I took a 8 pin plug and cut 1 pin off either side, turning it into a 6 pin plug, as the SiR requires it and it's apparently the hardest one to find.. It works perfectly! Comparison of the cable VSS vs electronic VSS to check everything is same size. And yeah the final product. I can now read past 8000RPM which is good, as my redline is set to 8400RPM. Have the open doors and few other little goodies, and also the check engine light as the ED6 Carby cluster doesn't have one, and now I have the shift light set up through it with the Hondata!









Here's some photos of the final product! Very happy with how it turned out, gives a complete different feel when driving, not sure how but it does, and at night with the cluster lit up it's even cooler, so SiR!


Last edited by afx31; 04-09-2017 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:30 AM   #214
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So today I decided to attend to my sloppy shift linkage universal joint, it's been horrible for a while with massive amounts of 'play', and since I came back from Japan I picked up a Fastline Performance shifter (which are discontinued/rare-ish) so thought now would be a good time to over haul everything. I was going to purchase the Innovative replacement but a mate said let's just 'rebuild' it.

First off is a photo just showing it before we started, it sloppy left, right and center on the 2 different joints. So we grinded off the bins to separate the joint from linkage and then the joint itself. The bitch pin side of the joint you are presented with a black rubber/metal outer insert for either side with a white nylon plastic inner piece. Straight away we found a large gap between the nylon piece against the inside of the metal T piece where the bitch pin goes in to. We thought of a few method to pack this out, but in the end (after walking around bunnings) decided to go with these PVC piping pieces as you can see in the 3rd photo. So what I did was file down the threaded side as the inlet was better suited for the T piece, then once it just fitted inside the T piece I cut off the smooth side/filed down and in she went! Next up I got the dremel and grinded out inside of it a few mill so the black outa rubber/metal insert could slide in. Once this was done for either side, all was reassembled with some greased and put back into the joint bracket.

For the pin holding the bracket to linkage I actually didn't get any photos of it as my mate was working on that piece as I did the above.. But once you grind of the pins either side, tap out the metal shaft which runs through it. He then tapped and threaded holes either end. One end is bigger then the other, I believe the 2 sizes were 8mm and 6mm but will double check those sizes later on. Once that was done, we bolted it in from either side with washers and she was shmick! Reassembled that to the joint and job was done!





LEFT = original nylon piece MIDDLE = new custom PVC piece RIGHT = PVC piece before modding





I then bolted it all back up to the car along with the new Fastline Performance shifter. It feels a lot better with everything done + the new shifter, I did try it first with my original DC2R one, much better. Still a little bit of play, but I believe this is from a few other areas, as there are multiple points in the entire shifting system. The rubber boot which goes around the ball towards the bottom of the shifter seems to move around a lot when the shifter is moved, also noticed the bushing underneath the car at the back of the linkages (takes 2 x 12mm bolts into chassis) flexes ALOT when moving back and forth on the shift.. The thought of a nice billet piece for there, I feel would make a good difference. I've read the bitch pin itself can cause some play.. BUT having said all that, what we've done today took a few hours, 2 x $2.50 pieces from bunnings and then your left over bolts in the garage, very happy with the result and keen to test it out at Eastern Creek later this month, along with Wakefield at the very start of next month! I will get some photos of the shifter in car tomorrow!
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