~sp33~

That's the one, glad you got it sorted.

afx31

If only I found this at the track, could of fixed it then and kept racing, oh well silly me

2x0

Just went through this entire build, it looks amazing!

It has inspired me for a lot of things I want to do to my CRX, and also I am hopefully going to pick up an EF hatch project in the near future to start a track car build as well

Maybe I missed it, but what front lip is that? I need one.

afx31

Cheers dude! Many hours and much cashola has gone into this, very rewarding though. Any questions on anything let me know!

It's a J's racing rep lip from poly urethane, came with the SiR front end when I bought It's good because it flexes, I've run over it 3 times and it just pops back into place

afx31

Nothing much has happened with the civic since I fixed the wire problem. I've entered into a Wakefield day again in July 19th and Honda Nationals down in Victoria in August. I've finally purchased some semi slicks. I went with the Nankang AR-1, have a few friends that have run them and have good reviews on them, half the price of A050 Advans as well. 225/45/15 up front and 205/50/15 rear. Also purchased a eBay oil cooler kit as my oil gets very hot on track, I will install this later in the year as the next 2 track days will be during winter, quite cold, too busy working on my wagon at the moment as well to install the oil cooler.

~sp33~

Bay looks super tidy.

afx31

Yeah it's actually not too bad, cheers! I've been meaning to get a new line for the booster to manifold vacuum and tuck it below the intake, just never got around to it. Also want to make a new pod box, I quickly made this one, bent it on the corner on my house, when I got the car back from the tuners with the new motor up and running, then havn't bothered changing since.

~sp33~

You could flip the booster too, and rotate the fitting in the intake manifold to point down so the line runs much lower.

afx31

Already have haha

Drewefhatch

I can't find the red ef9 tails and rear garnish anywhere purchased the car with these rice tail lights on it.

Drewefhatch

But besides the exterior I just need to purchase and ecu (going with the s300), hook up my oil pressure gauge, change the fluids, spark plugs and she will be ready for a tune. Capable of 650whp fully built b18b/b16a Frankenstein with some type r goodies gt40r and a long grocery list of other parts

afx31

650hp? jesus thats crazy. Very nice it looks schmick! Any vids?

Drewefhatch

once she gets tuned I will have videos of it. Nothing related to my hatch but I do have videos of my old car it was a turbo 2007 civic si. Blew it up and sold it 6 years ago. You can look up Theclassycb on YouTube to see some old videos not the best quality though

afx31

Awesome keen to see after tune. Ill look up your old one tonight after work

Drewefhatch

do you have any leads on where I can find ef9 tail lights and center garnish?

~sp33~

There's a bunch of options for sale on ebay at the moment.

afx31

As said above, most liking eBay or anything local to you

afx31

Purchased some hardrace shifter bushings which are actually a alloy piece, they go on the linkage which braces the other shifter linkage. Awesome feel, much more solid than the old worn out rubbers.




Also took the car for an alignment with the Nankang AR-1's on, bad news the 205's on the rear scrub like crazy! Coming home it chewed up the tyre. I raised the car 5mm, then 10mm and 15mm, still scrubbed. In the end I did a total of 20mm which probably put the alignment out, but had no more time before track.

afx31

So the run down.. with the Nankang AR-1's I was expecting to jump down a second or two from what everyones told me semis do. 1st/2nd sessions I was at 1.12.7's, couldn't seem to budge past, car felt very good though, probably the best it has ever felt on track. 3rd session I was down to a 1.12.3 and still confused, doing what I usually do however I'd usually already be back at 1.11.0 mark.

Gave the car to John Boston (Wakefield pro driver) who took it for a spin, told him the confusion I had. He went hard, and could only manage a 1.10.3 (my PB on RS3's was 1.1.0.8 ). He then thought maybe the overall diametre of the Nankang was greater than the RS3 which was ruining my gearing. After a google search it should the two are pretty much the same, he then wasn't really sure the reasoning. He commented the car was set up very well, handles awesome, brakes awesome and grips awesome, however still confused on this timing.. With this I'm also confused, so I guess its back to the drawing board to figure whats happening.. Tyres are awesome, very grippy, got maybe 5 laps and then after they felt like they were possibly getting a lil too hot, or the session had already ended... I finish with a 1.11.03 for the day.. I don't plan to change anything apart from alignment settings... until next time

~sp33~

Loving all the pics. It's a good point to be at where you can be tweaking bits of your setup to see changes/improvements in your time

afx31

Yeh I've spoken to Rhy/looked through his build thread. Going to check spring rates, different camber settings and one or two different lines

LankorDie

Great driving!

afx31

Cheers mate!

afx31

So the second half of my track update which I forgot to add the other night, was quickly trying to get something up before going to bed...

Here are the time sheets from the Natsoft timing website of the day, some fast cars out there, 2 Audis at the top of the board were very fast, few corners I was able to stick with them but when there was any resemblance of a straight they'd just leave me on the spot. So the final time for me (William Mitchell [Position 10]) of a 1.10.3890 was set by the Track Pro who teachers there, my faster time for the day was the final lap recorded, a 1.11.0368 (PB = 1.10.80), you can see that time at the end of the photo below. Been discussing with a few people since that day of possibilities to why it was so hard to get a good lap time, and smash my PB with semis. Some reckon the Nankang AR-1 arn't a 'true' R compond semi, possibly too grippy, possibly too heavy as well. I got an alignment a week before the day, and had to raise the car a total of 20mm at the rear to try and stop the scrubbing, which still occured at the track here and there, that possibly could have put the rear alignment out, whether that would affect the times that much, not sure.

I'll have to upload a photo, but I was scrubbing say 1/4 the way down the side wall of the tyre, when the pro drove it we noticed he managed to scrub about 1/2 way down the side wall, and theres already a knuckle gap between top of the tyre and the wheel arch. We feel there shouldn't be that much travel, so blown coilover/incorrect spring rates could possibly be a area to look into. I was going to look into getting them rebuilt, however I've had an idea since that I could buy a new set of 'track' spec coilovers, and move these GAB SS over to my RT4WD Wagon I'm building (I'll link in my signature) as I'd be needing to buy some for that as well.

A friend in Melbourne has a EK4, stock B16, suspension work and a built gearbox with a shorter 3rd, 4th, 5th and 4.4FD, he runs low 1.10s at this track with the Advan A050, so possibly building a gearbox could be an option, however I don't want to go down that path yet. Another friend on Instagram with a B18C7 CRX managed high 1.08's with stock motor and gearbox, and thats where I want to get to before any motor or gearbox work.

afx31

So a wheel alignment was booked in for Friday morning, 1 week before H Nationals 2018 Rd 2 at Winton. I removed all the coilovers and reset the preload by loosening the collar against the spring until the spring freely moves, then tightening that collar against the spring until as tight as possible by hand, then tightening it another 4mm-5mm with the C spanner. The rear was set an even height and the front right was raised to match the front left, all coilovers put back in and car into garage. The Friday morning I took the car for an alignment from my mechanic first thing in the morning, here's the print out for the alignment. I asked -2.5 camber front, -2 to -2.5 camber rear to help reduce this scrubbing. Not sure if these initial values are actually true, but chance they are and that might explain the trouble I had at Wakefield with the Nankang AR1's. I did notice once the car was home after the track that the rear right which we had stuffed around with so much actually had positive camber.. So maybe I'll have to return to Wakefield soon with a proper alignment.



Cool drawing aye (lol), the first figure is the initial value, with the second after the being the final value.